Noteworthy Discovery while Powder Coating

Status
Not open for further replies.

Snowdog

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2002
Messages
4,608
Previously, regardless what I did, I had to be ever-so-careful with powdered bullets before they're baked.
Even the slightest touch, on occasion, would wipe off some of the powder.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I don't like bald spots or boogers on my bullets. A smooth, perfect coating is always my aim.
Oh, and... I stand my bullets upright on parchment or a silicon baking sheet too. Yeah, I'm one of those types, spending the extra time with a hemostat. Sure, I've bulk coated many a 9mm (Lee 120gr TC) where I simply toss them into a mesh basket before baking. The coating does what it's suppose to do and protects the barrel from leading while creating zero smoke but they're the leper of bullets; they look hideous.

Heating them slightly (warm but not hot) in the oven or with a hair dryer helps quite a bit.

However, I noticed something interesting by chance that I thought I'd share that really improves the results.

Those frosted bullets we sometimes end up with when the casting temperature is a bit too hot? Don't recast them because they coat... wonderfully. Noticeably easier than the shiny slugs we strive for.
I don't know if it's the increased surface area that allows the powder to stick on to, but you can drop 'em and roll 'em on the parchment... the coating doesn't come completely off. After baking, the coating is usually factory perfect.

Just a tip I recently discovered and thought I'd share.
 
Last edited:
I really do think it's completely worth it. There's absolutely no more smoke than when using jacketed ammunition and I have yet to experience any fouling of lead or polymer in the barrel even after an extended range session.
There appears to be no affect on accuracy either.

If you're willing to invest in the powder, equipment (a cheap convection toaster oven, some parchment paper or a mesh basket that fits your oven), I think you will be satisfied with the results. There really isn't much of a learning curve, just a bunch of tips that improve already acceptable results.

Warming the bullets prior to coating, intentionally frosting the bullets during casting and limiting my coating to days where the humidity is low all have improved my results to perfect nearly every time.

The only drawback I've experienced so far to this method is reclaiming the lead from a bad coat. My second attempt was botched by accidentally overheating the bullets and having way too thick a coat to easily size. If you can get away with the smoke of burning plastic where you live, it will be a non-issue for you. Unfortunately, I live in a subdivision with an HOA and somewhat aggressive enforcement of the rules.
It keeps the property values up, but at a cost that I can't help but tally.
 
Last edited:
Those frosted bullets we sometimes end up with when the casting temperature is a bit too hot? Don't recast them because they coat... wonderfully.

It's long been noted (Lee, others) that the frosted bullets are fine, and hold tumble coatings (lube, HiTek, poly powder, etc) better. The potential change in surface hardness doesn't matter in typical pistol applications.
 
It's long been noted (Lee, others) that the frosted bullets are fine, and hold tumble coatings (lube, HiTek, poly powder, etc) better. The potential change in surface hardness doesn't matter in typical pistol applications.

Darn, here I thought I was sharing something new. Well, it was a discovery that was new to me. I hadn't read that before, but it certainly holds true.
 
I touched ever one of these and hundreds more while standing them up.??. Wearing a cheap nitrile glove which has powder paint on the finger tips. Shake and Bake style

DSCF0851 (Medium).JPG
 
Man, I just shake mine in a bowl dump on hardware cloth in one layer and bake. Then break apart any that stuck together and size.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top