Oil for wood stock guns stored in low humidity?
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herrwalther
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The NRA recommends wood stocks be stored at 50% humidity to prevent drying and cracking so you will definitely need something to keep the wood hydrated and protected.
I have used paste wax to seal wood varnish on non stocks stored in dry areas. That would be my choice for gun stocks as well if I had the need for it.
I have used paste wax to seal wood varnish on non stocks stored in dry areas. That would be my choice for gun stocks as well if I had the need for it.
CapnMac
Member
BLO would be my go-to.
Unless the stocks are waxed, in which case it would be strip wax and re-wax periodically.
Unless the stocks are waxed, in which case it would be strip wax and re-wax periodically.
shoobe01
Member
A humidifier, and some connected sensors (to warn you if you don't go into the safe/room often enough) maybe.
Lenny62
Member
My father always used tung oil when he refinished wood gun stocks.
What about a silicone-paper gun sock, or something of the sort?
What about a silicone-paper gun sock, or something of the sort?
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
I always wipe my rifle stocks and metal down with Ballistol when they go back in the safe
The original carbine stocks were finished with either tung oil or raw linseed. If your stocks haven't been refinished, I'd stick with one of those. I don't know how to tell the difference, so I'd rub on some RLO and check every couple of years.
I guess that BLO is an acceptable alternative?
I guess that BLO is an acceptable alternative?
DocRock
member
BLO from dry. If the stock is already finished, a paste wax - same as black powder lube - every few months or more of they get a lot of ware should keep in them in good fettle.
wiscoaster
Member
Don't repeated coats of BLO make the finish darker over time?
There is no reason that I know of to ever use RAW linseed oil for anything.
https://www.woodworkingtrade.com/tung-oil-vs-boiled-linseed-oil/
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil/
https://www.woodworkingtrade.com/tung-oil-vs-boiled-linseed-oil/
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil/
I think some of the answers here are for finishing a stock, but the question was about preserving already finished stocks.
I do not believe that any oil can preserve a stock from drying out in low humidity. The wood was finished with a certain amount of moisture (water) content. Oil will never replace that water. I have never seen oil penetrate more than the surface of wood whereas water can penetrate all the way through. If the water comes out, the wood is subject to changing dimensions. I do not think oil can keep the moisture from coming out over a long duration when RH is substantially lower than when the stock was finished. Depending on the conditions, humidification may not be practical. I live where the RH is rarely above 20% and it's usually around 13%. Humidification is a losing battle. If it were 35 or 40%, then it would be practical to use a little humidification and monitor it. What I would suggest for more carefree long-term storage would be to get the stocks at the correct moisture level and then vacuum seal them in a bag. I would dry-out and apply protectant then seal the metal parts separately.
What I actually do is just make all my wood suffer. I only have shooters so they just have to take it.
I do not believe that any oil can preserve a stock from drying out in low humidity. The wood was finished with a certain amount of moisture (water) content. Oil will never replace that water. I have never seen oil penetrate more than the surface of wood whereas water can penetrate all the way through. If the water comes out, the wood is subject to changing dimensions. I do not think oil can keep the moisture from coming out over a long duration when RH is substantially lower than when the stock was finished. Depending on the conditions, humidification may not be practical. I live where the RH is rarely above 20% and it's usually around 13%. Humidification is a losing battle. If it were 35 or 40%, then it would be practical to use a little humidification and monitor it. What I would suggest for more carefree long-term storage would be to get the stocks at the correct moisture level and then vacuum seal them in a bag. I would dry-out and apply protectant then seal the metal parts separately.
What I actually do is just make all my wood suffer. I only have shooters so they just have to take it.
wiscoaster
Member
Yes, I agree. Getting too worried about it is much ado about nothing. I bought one of those Royal Tigers Carcano imports and I noted the wood was EXTREMELY dry, like nothing I'd ever seen. I suppose from having been stored in a shed in Ethiopa for 70 years, if you believe the story. Anyway, to make a long point short, I exposed it to some humidity in the shower for a few hours just in case, but the stock was just fine, and cleaned up well.
I fully agree about the humidity levels! There is no substitute for moisture and solid woods, or any woods.
On the cheap, try a gel absorb style guitar humidifier for a very small storage area, and a cheap humidity measurement device, and see how that works. You fill a thing with water and the gel gives up or absorbs. Though you’d have to fill it every few days. An plugged in humidifier is more expensive.
For stock treatment, guitar stuff can be good too, if you can’t get gun only stuff. Fretboard oil is used on open pore rosewood, and it works well, on open pore, non laminated stuff. You can really watch it soak in. There are different ones, so read the bottle labels. I wanted to try Tru oil, but I think that probably makes the stock darker a lot.
On laminated wood there is polish.
On the cheap, try a gel absorb style guitar humidifier for a very small storage area, and a cheap humidity measurement device, and see how that works. You fill a thing with water and the gel gives up or absorbs. Though you’d have to fill it every few days. An plugged in humidifier is more expensive.
For stock treatment, guitar stuff can be good too, if you can’t get gun only stuff. Fretboard oil is used on open pore rosewood, and it works well, on open pore, non laminated stuff. You can really watch it soak in. There are different ones, so read the bottle labels. I wanted to try Tru oil, but I think that probably makes the stock darker a lot.
On laminated wood there is polish.
wiscoaster
Member
A little darker, not a lot ... similar to other finishing oils. But thanks for the tip about fretboard oil. Will have to try that some time.
GBExpat
Member
BLO or Tung Oil (not to be confused with "Tung Oil Finish", which is not Tung Oil, but a varnish.)
You can alternate the two on an oiled stock, they play well together.
I like to refresh stocks every few years with a little bit of BLO hand-rubbed into the surface.
Tung Oil (or, perhaps, only the brand the I use [Old Masters]) quickly becomes gummy when I try to rub it in, so I only use the paint on, wait 15-30, wipe off and polish with clean rag approach.
You can alternate the two on an oiled stock, they play well together.
I like to refresh stocks every few years with a little bit of BLO hand-rubbed into the surface.
Tung Oil (or, perhaps, only the brand the I use [Old Masters]) quickly becomes gummy when I try to rub it in, so I only use the paint on, wait 15-30, wipe off and polish with clean rag approach.
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