OIL over Tru-oil???
- Thread starter briang2ad
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It will work if you cut the shine with extra-fine steel wool first.
Not sure how much more "refined" you can get then Tru-Oil though.
rc
Not sure how much more "refined" you can get then Tru-Oil though.
rc
nbkky71
Member
Tru-oil dries into a clear, hard finish after it fills the pores of the wood.
I don't see how tung/linseed/danish oil would be able to penetrate it.
I don't see how tung/linseed/danish oil would be able to penetrate it.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It won't, but it will dry over it.
If you are trying for a rough military type boiled linseed finish, the Tru-Oil will have to come off first.
If you are trying for a fine hand-rubbed oil finish, Tru-Oil will do that just fine, depending on how you apply it.
rc
If you are trying for a rough military type boiled linseed finish, the Tru-Oil will have to come off first.
If you are trying for a fine hand-rubbed oil finish, Tru-Oil will do that just fine, depending on how you apply it.
rc
If by "refined," you mean a shiny, "presentation" kind of finish, you might want to know that Tung Oil comes in two finishes, a matte/standard and a "high gloss." Formsby makes them this way and are in most Ace Hardwares, etc. I use this to restore the high-finish stocks that originally came that way, like S&W target stocks, etc.
That may not be what you meant, but I thought I'd throw that out there.
krs
Member
If you mean a hand rubbed oil finish using a drying oil like boiled linseed, you can use the tru-oil as a grain filler only. Tru oil dries much more quickly than linseed and dries pretty hard. This is a good filler with the added benefit of not drying to a whitish color in the grain of the wood as do many of the fillers made for other uses.
You do the truoil finish using light coats ACROSS the grain to get it in. Once dried pretty well but still slightly gummy you can remove the truoil from the surface with light abrasive, like 0000 steel wool. Once you have it off the surface let it continue to harden in the grain. Don't use the steel too soon or the incompletely dried oil will get tiny bits of steel wool in it, and they can be a bitch to remove completely - but you'll have to do it or you'll hate yourself later.
If the grain is not filled completely once dry you have to continue adding coats and removing them until the surface is bare wood but the grain is completely filled.
THEN start with the linseed, light coats - a little on your fingertips spread as far as it'll go before dipping for more.
I like to rub the linseed with my bare hands until it and the wood are hot and my palm is about to blister. Seven or eight full coats rubbed that way with at least 24 hours between coats will give a finish that Mr. Purdy would be proud of and would be worthy of use on the dashboards of Rolls Royce Motorcars. More coats will be too good for them, but you may like it.
It's not fast or easy. When done well, it can be repaired easily by rubbing in a little oil, setting it up like before with hand heat. A lifetime finish.
You do the truoil finish using light coats ACROSS the grain to get it in. Once dried pretty well but still slightly gummy you can remove the truoil from the surface with light abrasive, like 0000 steel wool. Once you have it off the surface let it continue to harden in the grain. Don't use the steel too soon or the incompletely dried oil will get tiny bits of steel wool in it, and they can be a bitch to remove completely - but you'll have to do it or you'll hate yourself later.
If the grain is not filled completely once dry you have to continue adding coats and removing them until the surface is bare wood but the grain is completely filled.
THEN start with the linseed, light coats - a little on your fingertips spread as far as it'll go before dipping for more.
I like to rub the linseed with my bare hands until it and the wood are hot and my palm is about to blister. Seven or eight full coats rubbed that way with at least 24 hours between coats will give a finish that Mr. Purdy would be proud of and would be worthy of use on the dashboards of Rolls Royce Motorcars. More coats will be too good for them, but you may like it.
It's not fast or easy. When done well, it can be repaired easily by rubbing in a little oil, setting it up like before with hand heat. A lifetime finish.
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