SmershAgent
Member
What brand of oil do you use on your firearms? Are there specific brands of oil particularly suited for specific brands of firearms?
Much obliged for any feedback.
Much obliged for any feedback.
Oil
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Valkman
Member
I use FP-10, it's a CLP and works very well.
jobu07
Contributing Member
I just use rem oil or 50 wieght motor oil and then any old grease. Works for me! 
Dave Markowitz
Member
There are a ton of lubricants suitable for use on firearms, not all of which are marketed specifically for use on guns. Just as important as which lube you use is how you use it. For example, Glock specifies that you only need to put a few drops of oil on specific places, any more than that and you're just wasting oil. And the M1 Garand needs to be greased in particular locations or it won't run its best.
I like using grease on wear points like bolt camming surfaces. Grease stays in place, rather than running off. I've used Shooter's Choice grease, Lubriplate, and white lithium grease from Pep Boys, and all work fine. A good grease can help semiautos keep working when they get hot. E.g., according to info passed along by John Farnam, Mini-14s will continue to work reliably during extended strings of fire (as during training) if they are greased rather than oiled.
For parts that get oiled I've used Break Free CLP, Ballistol, automatic transmission fluid, and FP-10. BF CLP works well. ATF works well, is dirt cheap, and cleans up carbon fouling very well. Ballistol works well and is good for cleaning. It's also less toxic than a lot of oils/cleaners. It smells like used gym socks, though. FP-10 works very well as a lube and cleaner, and smells faintly of cinnamon.
Aside from how well an oil lubricates, it's also important to know how well it works as a corrosion inhibitor. In my experience, all of the oils I mentioned above seem to work fine, but I'm not in a real harsh environment. I've read a few very positive things about Ballistol in this regard, though. The guns I don't shoot a lot have a light coat of RIG grease on them to protect against rust.
I like using grease on wear points like bolt camming surfaces. Grease stays in place, rather than running off. I've used Shooter's Choice grease, Lubriplate, and white lithium grease from Pep Boys, and all work fine. A good grease can help semiautos keep working when they get hot. E.g., according to info passed along by John Farnam, Mini-14s will continue to work reliably during extended strings of fire (as during training) if they are greased rather than oiled.
For parts that get oiled I've used Break Free CLP, Ballistol, automatic transmission fluid, and FP-10. BF CLP works well. ATF works well, is dirt cheap, and cleans up carbon fouling very well. Ballistol works well and is good for cleaning. It's also less toxic than a lot of oils/cleaners. It smells like used gym socks, though. FP-10 works very well as a lube and cleaner, and smells faintly of cinnamon.
Aside from how well an oil lubricates, it's also important to know how well it works as a corrosion inhibitor. In my experience, all of the oils I mentioned above seem to work fine, but I'm not in a real harsh environment. I've read a few very positive things about Ballistol in this regard, though. The guns I don't shoot a lot have a light coat of RIG grease on them to protect against rust.
El Tejon
Member
Kellube or SLIP2000.
Nathaniel Firethorn
Member
Hoppe's Dry Lube for the .22s, Rem Oil for everything else.
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sm
member
Not a big fan of CLP - Cleaner, Lube, Protect.
The only CLP that has proven to work ALL these years in any enviroment is G96 I keep a can in the truck.
OTC stuff the best is Kellube - not available locally.
As Dave mentioned - some guns need specific lube needs. For Grease I really like RIG +P, which adds the corrosion protection. RIG for Storage.
Lithium works very well and is cheap.
Hot Water with Soap or Simple Green. I learned too many years ago about ATF and its ability to keep a semi auto shotgun running, prevent corrosion and cleaning ability.
Currently the 0w30 Castrol Syntec , the "German GC " as it is referred to, is my syn oil preference.
I have to order some Kellube for a special dealie. The quart of Hoppe's 9 is available locally.
I keep Zippo lighter fluid and Tobasco sauce on hand anyway. That is what the ATF and Syntec are put in when the lighter fluid is used up. Itty Bitty Tobasco sauce bottles are great for lube, plastics don't break down, that glass is tough and won't break.
Disposable pipettes from the Arts & Crafts store are used to fill the Tobasco bottles. I also use them for extracting the Hoppe's from the small Hoppe's bottles I refill - I don't contaminate the bottle that way.
Brownells is out of Kellube
Gotta find another source I guess. *shrug*
I really should find a local source for Turbine oil - good stuff !!
The only CLP that has proven to work ALL these years in any enviroment is G96 I keep a can in the truck.
OTC stuff the best is Kellube - not available locally.
As Dave mentioned - some guns need specific lube needs. For Grease I really like RIG +P, which adds the corrosion protection. RIG for Storage.
Lithium works very well and is cheap.
Hot Water with Soap or Simple Green. I learned too many years ago about ATF and its ability to keep a semi auto shotgun running, prevent corrosion and cleaning ability.
Currently the 0w30 Castrol Syntec , the "German GC " as it is referred to, is my syn oil preference.
I have to order some Kellube for a special dealie. The quart of Hoppe's 9 is available locally.
I keep Zippo lighter fluid and Tobasco sauce on hand anyway. That is what the ATF and Syntec are put in when the lighter fluid is used up. Itty Bitty Tobasco sauce bottles are great for lube, plastics don't break down, that glass is tough and won't break.
Disposable pipettes from the Arts & Crafts store are used to fill the Tobasco bottles. I also use them for extracting the Hoppe's from the small Hoppe's bottles I refill - I don't contaminate the bottle that way.
Brownells is out of Kellube
Gotta find another source I guess. *shrug*
I really should find a local source for Turbine oil - good stuff !!
Nathaniel Firethorn
Member
For that, I buy eyedroppers from the Shop-N-Foo.Disposable pipettes from the Arts & Crafts store are used to fill the Tobasco bottles. I also use them for extracting the Hoppe's from the small Hoppe's bottles I refill - I don't contaminate the bottle that way.
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Brian Dale
Member
So which is better -- Mobil 1 or ATF?
I read a little while ago on this forum of a bunch of guys using Slick-50 One Grease http://www.slick50.com/
I've been using it ever since. I get the big tube. You get so much it'll last you a few lifetimes.
I've been using it ever since. I get the big tube. You get so much it'll last you a few lifetimes.
cracked butt
Member
FP-10, RemOil, or Militech grease for moving parts, WD-40 to protect exterior surfaces.
cratz2
Member
I've been using FP-10 for over 3 years now and am completely happy with it.
Model520Fan
Member
I think that WD-40 is for water displacement, and I think that it is good for that. I have used it successfully for long-term storage by spraying down the gun with WD-40, mainly hard-to-get-at places, wiping the gun off, and using RIG, which is, surprisingly, a good rust inhibiting grease.
I use RIG Stainless Steel lube for lubing high-pressure interfaces and, not so strangely, for stainless steel interfaces.
Where oil is called for, I use Anderol, an old low-freezing-point synthetic oil I stocked up on many years ago from Gil Hebard. If that runs out, I'll probably use BF CLP, unless there is an obviously better choice.
There are a lot of good gun oils out there. The main things are to get one that doesn't make trouble in cold weather, don't use too much, and don't think that oil is a substitute for RIG.
I use RIG Stainless Steel lube for lubing high-pressure interfaces and, not so strangely, for stainless steel interfaces.
Where oil is called for, I use Anderol, an old low-freezing-point synthetic oil I stocked up on many years ago from Gil Hebard. If that runs out, I'll probably use BF CLP, unless there is an obviously better choice.
There are a lot of good gun oils out there. The main things are to get one that doesn't make trouble in cold weather, don't use too much, and don't think that oil is a substitute for RIG.
saltydog
Member
My Sig P229 gets an oil change every 3000 rounds and I use Penzoil 10w-40!
Just kidding....
Just kidding....
BluesBear
member
I guess I'm old fashioned but I still love and use Clenz-Oil and Ballistol.
Wags
Member
I never got over Militec's persistant "dancing in the blood" of US troops. Blaming any failure of any weapon on the fact that the soldier wasn't issued a Militec brand lube makes me cringe. "Little Johnny would still be alive if he'd have been issued Militec products!" Yeah right. Treat a gun with militec and then pour a handful of sand into the action while you're firing ... it'll stop just like a gun treated with any other wonderoil or wondergrease.
I generally use Breakfree CLP where cleaning or oiling is necessary, and a generic lithium grease when I'm greasing something.
I know that CLP does stuff that motor oil won't, but I'm not convinced that $5/ounce gun grease does anything that $0.15/ounce lithium grease won't.
I generally use Breakfree CLP where cleaning or oiling is necessary, and a generic lithium grease when I'm greasing something.
I know that CLP does stuff that motor oil won't, but I'm not convinced that $5/ounce gun grease does anything that $0.15/ounce lithium grease won't.
cracked butt
Member
With Militech's fanciful claims or not, awhile back they were giving out free samples of grease- I got one of these which will be enough to keep my M1 lubed for a long time.
As far as WD-40 is concerned- I haven't had a gun rust yet... well except for one exception- a POS rem 597 with its rough painted metal surfaces that rusted with no matter what protectant I put on it. The old axiom of "garbage in, garbage out" has more to do with it rusting than what was use to coat it.
As far as WD-40 is concerned- I haven't had a gun rust yet... well except for one exception- a POS rem 597 with its rough painted metal surfaces that rusted with no matter what protectant I put on it. The old axiom of "garbage in, garbage out" has more to do with it rusting than what was use to coat it.
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