OK...so I finally have my M1.

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196scoutmaster

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And I've learned a few lessons:
1. No...you can't use just any factory .30-06 ammo in this beautiful firerarm like the guy who sold it to me said. (I just removed the blown shell casing from the chamber - thank you Brownell for any easy-to-use extractor)

2. Finding the right ammo is becoming difficult to impossible. Yes, I can order some Greek ammo from CMP but the corrosivness I've read about scares me. Other than Federal "American Eagle" or Hornaday or CMP where do you find ammo for an M1?

3. Some have suggested reloading my own brass. I keep my .30-06 brass. Reading various threads or web pages reloading doesn't look impossible. The biggest hurdle is the Mrs. "Uh..honey. Remember when I promised not to get too deep into this M1 thing?" - LOL. If I go this direction are the right powder, primer and bullets readily available? Can I use my factory brass as long as the powder is correct? Everything I've read about using factory shells has to do with powder type and quantity causing problems in the M1.

4. I know there are M1's out there chambered for .308. .308 ammo is much more plentiful in our area. Can I buy a .308 barrel/receiver and simply subsitute it for the .30-06 barrel/reciever? Are all the other parts compatible? I'd be surprised (but pleased) if the answer is yes.

5. I've seen comments about adjutable gas plugs - they claim you can shoot factory loads in the M1. That's wonderful but what tells you how to adjust the plug for various factory loads - whether its Federal, Remington, Winchester, whatever

I bought this rifle for many reasons - history (my father carried one in the Pacific), the feel of it and long range target shooting. Its got a new barrel, new stock, misc recycled parts - I love it. But I can't find ammo for it. Any and all comments are welcome. This M1 newbie is anxious to learn and get shooting.
 
The Greek 30-06 HXP from the CMP is not corrosive...the Korean surplus 30-06 is the one that I have heard has problems with corrosion.

You cannot change the 30-06 barrel and use a .308 barrel without modifying the rifle with a block to use shorter cartridges, I know that for sure, but there may be other issues also.

If you are going to use factory ammo I do not recommend it, but the adjustable gas plug is the way you will want to go.

Do an hour of searching this site and others, you will find out everything you want to know and more.
 
as said, the Greek HXP is not corrosive. It's cheap and shoots very well. order a couple of cans from the CMP and reload the brass with a proper load. You'll also be set for life with the enblock clips that come with the CMP ammo.
 
Hey there Proud Pappa, I know just how ya feel! The M1 is such a darn fine weapon :)


I've used lots of 150g bullets in mine, either handloaded or the Winchester SXT2, which works INCREDIBLY well. If you get into handloading, it's a fun round to reload. I've just recently started and I'm pleased with the results. It's a really great rifle. Check out the forums at the Civilian Marksmanship Program and learn TONS about that fantastic rifle.

Also, don't bother converting it to a .308, it's MEANT to eat thirty ought, don't take away from that. You can hunt a MOOSE with that rifle, if'n ya want :)
 
5. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=412046
I am sure it has at least some basic instructions you should be able to follow. Different bullet weights, and manufactures may require you to expend some effort to readjust the setting.

At least you can shoot regular factory ammo.


I would be worried about that blown casing, the size of military 30-06 should be the same as factory 30-06, but different pressure curves. There might be something else that caused that rupture. You might want a gunsmith to take a look at it.
 
Have you looked at the CMP forums? I'm sure you can find a lot about the adjustable gas plugs there.

Also, I was under the impression that using modern factory ammo will bend your oprod. You might want to check that.
 
For the m1, there is no easier round to reload for. Just stick with imr or H 4895 and your rifle will run flawlessly. There are many other powders you can use but the military used imr 4895 so thats what I use when loading for the garand. H4895 is a little cleaner and gives slightly more velocity but more or less the same. Just dont go over 180 grain bullets and you should be fine.
 
5. Answer is that I read where you adjust the plug out, releasing pressure. You fire a round, an adjust the plug until it chambers the next round. Then your set for that type of ammo....CMP ammo is pretty good, Higher dollar ammo or reloading will produce a little bit better accuracy.
 
Thank you all - its helped a lot

Wow...all great info. THANKS. I will be taking it to a gunsmith to have it checked out after blowing that casing. And I'll check into reloading too.
 
Just an after thought... You will have no worries about corrosive ammo or primers if you take the time to clean your rifle! It doesn't take much to swab out the bore & as the fouling salts are water soluble you can use simple soap & water (just dry & lube afterward) or any decent bore cleaner. Hell, you should be doing it anyway..!!.. If you take care of your tools they will take care of you! You should swab the bore w/ ammonia & see if you get green or blue. That's brass or copper buildup & will affect accuracy, black may mean heavy lead fouling. If so, give it a good scrubbing with proper bore cleaner until you swabs are clean. Seriously! A lot of guns are said to be 'shot out' when they are only fouled badly (It takes a LOT to shoot out a bore..) but few people seem to know or care how to maintain their weapons...
I'll get off that soap(?) box now...."DOC"
 
Simple fix just get the Schuster Adjustable Gas Plug $30 and grab some cheap commercial 150gr Federal 30-06 ammo $13.97 from Wally World.

If you really just would rather have .308 Win...my M1 does have a Wilson .308 Win Barrel screwed onto it all you need is the barrel not a shorter reciver and an adjustable gas plug. A gunsmith will have to install and headspace. May I also suggest the special spacer with feed ramp that will keep people from jamming 30-06 into the thing! Otherwise everything works great as is for .308! HINT (.308 is just a shortened 30-06 brass made to duplicate the M2 30-06 ammo - 150gr bullet going 2700fps).
 
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Welcome to THR. And congrats on your new purchase! Be sure to post lots of pics of all your newly acquired toys!
5. I've seen comments about adjutable gas plugs - they claim you can shoot factory loads in the M1. That's wonderful but what tells you how to adjust the plug for various factory loads - whether its Federal, Remington, Winchester, whatever
Click to expand...

This is by far the easiest solution, for $35, your gun is no longer limited to specific loadings. Now ALL 30-06 ammo can be used in your gun. :) YAY! Check out Schuster Gas Plugs, They make a decent model. The Schuster has an adjustment setscrew (this screw adjusts the gas flow) and a lock setscrew (this one locks the adjustment screw in place).

To use it correctly, the lock setscrew is typically removed and the adjustment setscrew backed out all the way (to allow lots of gas to "bleed" off). The Garand usually won't cycle with this much of a vent.

Then, usually with single rounds loaded (so you don't mess with the muzzle while there is a round chambered...), fire at a safe target, adjust for a smaller opening and reload until you get reliable cycling. Reliable cycling is usually indicated by the bolt locking back correctly on last round. I understand it is possible to get the action to pick up the next round without moving back far enough to lock open on last round, so this is another reason to fire single rounds.

After getting it adjusted correctly, you are then supposed to install the lock screw and tighten it. Don't insert the allen wrench too far, or you can engage both screws.
 
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Go with the Greek(HXP)ammo from the CMP .45/round. It's much cheaper than 30-06 at wally world and you wount need an adjustable gas plug.
Last I looked 30-06 at walmart was $19/box .95/round with tax. Ouch!!!

However midway usa.com has the adjustable gas plug.
 
the booklet that came with my CMP Garand mentions ammo. It only says to not use bullet grains over 180.

I have been shooting Prvi Partizen ball ammo out of mine now with no problems at all.

I dunno, but I think if it was bad to shoot commercial ammo, the CMP would have said so????
 
by Im283 the booklet that came with my CMP Garand mentions ammo. It only says to not use bullet grains over 180.

I have been shooting Prvi Partizen ball ammo out of mine now with no problems at all.

I dunno, but I think if it was bad to shoot commercial ammo, the CMP would have said so????
Click to expand...
283 the commecial ammo has a stonger charge in terms of psig. I believe with commercial ammo the cylinder pressure is +/-2500psig where the M2 ball surplus ammo has a cylinder pressure or +/-2000psig. There have been extensive test done on this

Commercial ammo "CAN" damage the operating rod. Some have experienced this. Some haven't, but I play it safe and use M2 ball ammo.
The NRA has reloading data for M1s. If I remember correctly it about 2 grains less per round that they recommend depending on the powder.

Check here and scroll down and read Master Po's comments.
http://web.archive.org/web/20000620055732/home.att.net/~Masterpo/M1load.htm
 
Again. The safest way to have lots of fun shooting anything other than M2 ball with your M1 Rifle is to install the worlds most simple solution. An adjustable gas plug. By doing so you are free to dive into the world of heavy bullets and super slow powders etc etc. Stuff that would normally harm the op rod.

It is too much gas port pressure that does the damage. Slow powders will produce such an event whether it's a 150gr bullet or more. The reason 180gr bullets aren't recommended by the CMP is because they are almost always loaded with slow powders.

The M1 Rifle isn't fragile - it's gas system is. I have my M1's (308 Win) Schuster Gas plug adjusted just enough to cycle the action and throw the brass into a nice pile nearby. It's a powder puff and I'm shooting max charges of Varget with 168's and 175's pills.
 
or you can go with Remington UMC, which is Garand-friendly, as another commercially available alternative (in addition to those mentioned above).
 
....the commercial ammo has a stronger charge in terms of psig. I believe with commercial ammo the cylinder pressure is +/-2500psig where the M2 ball surplus ammo has a cylinder pressure or +/-2000psig. There have been extensive test done on this.
Click to expand...

First off, rifles have CHAMBERS not cylinders. Secondly, what the heck are you talking about? The chamber pressure of M2 Ball ammo is around 40000 psi. What's with this "+/-2000psig" stuff? A 'tolerance' has to be stated to be of some value. It is not a stand alone as you have stated. :banghead:
 
There is no commercial ammo manufacture that will recommend their ammo in a Garand with the exception of Hornady and Federals "new Garand loads"

Damage is not only limited to the Op Rod but "can' crack the receiver heel from the bolt slamming into it at high speeds from excess pressure to the gas system
Metal fatigue doesnt happen overnight and is accumalative. So yes you can get away with shooting the wrong ammo but for how long? How much stress has the rifle already had put on it before you aquired it?
They only safe ammo is:
#1 Good quality M2ball surplus
#2 Hornady or Fedaerals New Garand loads
#3 Commercial ammo with bullet weights under 180 gr. used with a adjustable gas screw
#4 Handloading with proper bullets and powder
Anything else and you will eventually case damage. Do ya feel lucky?
 
#3 Commercial ammo with bullet weights under 180 gr. used with a adjustable gas screw
Click to expand...

I thought that with an adjustable gas plug, you could basically shoot whatever you wanted (assuming it is adjusted properly).

Is this incorrect? I don't have one, but thats just the impression I was under.
 
#3 Commercial ammo with bullet weights under 180 gr. used with a adjustable gas screw

My opinion
 
You should get some surplus ammo anyway even if you do have the gas plug because it is the cheapest 30-06 around, plus it goes hand and glove with the Garand.
 
Learn to handload. You'll get better results and you will always be able to shoot for reasonable money. I think IMR or Hodgen 4895 powder is the mil-spec powder with arsenal primers. Always full length resize all brass for the Garand and never reuse the brass more than 3 times. Mil-spec brass has slightly less internal volume than commercial brass due to it's heavier construction. So I recommend using the case volume percentage formula for determining powder charge.
I've installed a Schuster on my M1 and it works terrific. My M1 is a Kreiger built NM rifle in .308 so my receipe isn't relative but I tuned my Schuster by closing off the bypass to the point to just allow the action to function properly. It improved the accuracy and it treats the brass gentle.
 
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