Ok the guns got wet, real wet, now what should I do?

[Peter M. Eick]

I was out at the range today shooting heal releases 9mm's (Sig P210's and H&K P7PSP's) today and it rained, HARD, so even though I tried to cover them up, all 5 guns got wet and some got really wet. While waiting for the lightning to pass, I wiped them down, relubed and shot at least 50 rnds down each to sort of dry them out from heat.

At home, I striped everyone down as far as I can, cleaned them with MPRO7 and then again with Hoppes #9 and used my air compressor (water is trapped) to dry them off. After that I then dunked them each in Hoppes #9 oil and let them soak (grips off) for a few minutes till they were complely saturated. I then worked the action and trigger a few times to get the oil everywhere and put them in a pan to drip dry. I did the same routine to the magazines.

So now I have a bunch of torn up guns dripping oil out of every place and mags draining oil out all over the place. My plan is to put the guns back together and park them in the safe for the next 3 months becuase I will be out of the country and my wife will not mess with my guns. She only uses hers.

So, What should I have done?

 

[Kamicosmos]

Wow.

Sounds like you did a hell of a lot more than I would have!!!

I imagine they will be just fine.

 

[Nero Steptoe]

Kind of makes those ol' Glocks look pretty good!

 

[cool45auto]

I'll second that! I would have (and have done ) just did a field strip and got in all the nooks and crannies with some Q-tips.

 

[Boats]

If/when my pistols get rained on, and in Oregon they get rained on, and I don't want to detail strip them, here's what I do. After a field strip and while taking off the grips, I preheat the oven to 125 degrees and get a cookie sheet ready.

The heat is not enough to harm the pistols, but it will evaporate any trapped water inside of a half hour. Oxidization (rust) takes longer than this to form.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Boats,

That is a darn good idea. I never really considered it. My though was just to get them clean and then soak them in oil so I could park them away for the next few months. I would clean out the mags when I get back (of the excess oil that is) and the rest I would just let drip in the pan in the safe.

 

[TarpleyG]

I'll say it again...Spray everything down real good with WD-40. That will displace any water present until you get to them to properly clean them.

GT

 

[Majic]

After the drip dry process take your compressed air and blow them down good again to remove excess oil. The excess oil will be a magnet for dust making another mess you will have to clean out after the lengthy storage you have planned.

 

[Old Fuff]

Now use your air hose to blow out the excessive oil. If you are going to put guns into long-term storage get some VIP warp (from www.Brownells.com if you don't have... be fine when you get back, and ready too go.

 

[10-Ring]

What you've done for your guns should be fine, but what Boats suggests sounds like insurance to make sure you've gotten rid of all moisture

 

[tac17]

Kind of makes those ol' Glocks look pretty good!

I was sitting there thinking the same thing.

 

[Majic]

Not to pop anybody's bubble, but soak a Glock and not clean it and soon you too will have a nice looking (on the outside) rusted piece of junk also. The firing mechanism and barrel are still made of steel, and yes stainless steel will rust.

 

[tac17]

stainless steel will rust.

Whew...thank god my barrel isn't stainless.
You do have a good point there are some rustable areas in there still not many but a few.

 

[sm]

Last time I cleaned a certain 1911 (yeah I actually cleaned one -shush) I had a mud puddle mixed with snow run into it.

Grips off, field strip, brushed with soap and water, CRC Brakleen from NAPA, relube assemble Done.

Competed in clay games where we shot in everything but lightening. ( kinda fun as are tornadoes ) Shotguns same way. I don't have compressed air.

No Brakleen, I use Zippo Lighter fluid.

 

[happyguy]

Use a hairdryer to dry it out, then clean and lube as usual. Fresh rainwater is normally not very corrosive.

If they got dunked in seawater, the first thing I would do is soak and rinse them in freshwater.

Lots of folks actually use soapy water to clean their weapons.

Just some random thoughts.

Regards,
Happyguy

 

[JohnBT]

When I have wet guns I hose them down with spray cleaner, let them dry for a few minutes and then spray them inside and out with Sheath. My duck guns haven't rusted yet and they get soaked in saltwater everytime they go out in the boat. If they don't get wet in the boat they get wet when I get out of the boat and wade the final yards to the island we hunt. I like it when it rains because it washes the salt off the guns.

John

 

[Al Thompson]

Ditto the WD-40 and a hair dryer. I've also used a bucket of kerosene to dunk/soak a handgun. Cheap and effective.

 

[dairycreek]

Another Oregonian here!!

Wipe them down with a dry cloth. Spray them liberally witih WD-40 and wipe them down again. Be sure to get in the nooks and crannies. Been doing that for years with no problem. Rain in Oregon? I hadn't noticed. Good shooting

 

[Mikul]

I've shot in heavy downpours too. I wipe it dry immediately, field-strip and wipe everything with a rag or q-tip soaked in Kroil (it also displaces water), and drip some Kroil into places too small to get into with a q-tip.

It's no big deal.

Hoppe's isn't too bad at collecting dust. If you can't blow it out, you can use brake cleaner, mineral spirits, kerosene or whatever to dissolve it out, but you'll have to re-lube as normal.

 

[CWL]

I spend $2 on brake cleaner (you can buy gunscrubber for $10+ if you want to) since this will clean the firearms down to bare metal.

After this, you can lube/store your firearms any way you choose.

 

[George Hill]

You didn't bake them in the oven? You gotta bake them in the oven!




Kidding... no, you did just fine.

 

[Bart Noir]

Baking in oven sounds like a simple idea, and works even if you don't have the other sprays, cleaners and so on. But, do the plastic parts melt or get to the point where they soften and pick up finger prints. Man, I love a real metal and wood gun, but there are many platic / polymer parts on today's products. Sight inserts, frames, mainspring housings, triggers, the list goes on. Don't want to melt them. Is 125 degrees F safe for them?

Bart Noir
I wish the buck stopped here. I could use a few...

 

[Cameron Lamont]

I dropped my H&K USP in the sink once.

I pulled it out dropped the mag, shook it vigorously, inserted the mag and slide it into the holster.

It was dry by the time I took it out at night before bed. I think I put another 2000 or so rounds through it before I cleaned it again.

Cameron

 

[voilsb]

I'm also from the pacific northwest, and although I haven't tried it the first thing that came to mind was "throw it in the oven to get it nice and darn hot, then take 'em out and let 'em cool down. That ought to dry them out good and all."

Bart Noir, 125 better be safe for them. It gets hotter than that naturally some places. 150 would probably also be safe for them. More than that, though, and I *might* get paranoid.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Concur w/Boats on baking them. Remove all plastic, rubber & wood first and it'll be just fine. Let it get hot (125 is enough) so that it dries thoroughly. Now, if the metal starts changing colors, you're in trouble. But 125 is low enough not to worry about.