Okay... I think I'm finally ready. What else do I need?

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1KPerDay

1KPerDay

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I'm getting a Lee Classic Turret kit in .45 ACP from kempf
https://kempfgunshop.com/index.php?...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=41

with all upgrades.

And a vibratory tumbler/cleaner.

I'm ordering

a bullet puller
The ABC's of Reloading by Chevalier
Hornady reloading handbook 7th ed.
MTM digital reloading scale
LCD digital calipers


I have cases, primers, powder, some bullets. I will need to buy die sets of course, but I figured I'd start with one or maybe two calibers.

Do I need a media separator?

Case prep center (starting on auto pistol cartridges... is this necessary?)

What else is MANDATORY?

Thanks very much! :cool:
 
Sounds like you have everything critical. Now you can get started and buy little goodies you want as you go along.

Some sort of media separator is nice. I use scrounged pieces.
 
A colander and a small trash bucket work great for removing cases from media. Though I didn't see any media listed in what you were picking up.

A couple things I have on my bench, just looking around, but keep in mind I am just using a single stage press, so some things won't really matter for you. And most of these things are not required also.

* Labeled tupperware containers for the different states shells can be in (uncleaned, cleaned, de-primed, cleaned primer pockets, and re-primed).
* Primer pocket cleaner, but if you are doing a turret press you probably are not cleaning the primer pockets
* Ammonia free brass polish (if you like pretty cases)
* A bucket which I throw my .22 cases, old primers, and really ugly cases or unusable cases
* Ammo boxes to store loaded ammo, with a pen and masking tape to put record round information (bullet weight, powder, powder weight)

So, those are some ideas for things that are not terribly expensive, but do help make things run a little more smoothly for me.
 
Thanks.

Is walnut superior to corncob media or are they effectively the same?

One more stupid question from the noob:

how do I tell which die sets will work with the powder measure? They need to specifically say "powder through" expander dies or something, right? If I just buy some RCBS rifle dies or whatever, they won't work with the lee pro powder dispenser, right?

EDIT: never mind... I guess I need the "rifle charging" die to use the case activated powder measure feature.
 
EDIT: never mind... I guess I need the "rifle charging" die to use the case activated powder measure feature.
Click to expand...

actually for the pistol i think what you need is the powder through expander.

thats what im using for pistol but i dont have the pro disc, i have just the lee auto disc. it doesnt need the pull back chain.

i use the lee rifle charging die with the lee perfect powder measure, which is a totally different measure. (actually 2. one for 223, and one for the ole m1's)

im not sure about the pro disc with the turret press because i think it might require the pull back chain. someone will chime in im sure since they are actually much more popular than the standard auto-disc like i have.
 
I prefer corncob, but many folks like walnut or a mixture of both.
Click to expand...

i use both. i think the walnut cleans better and faster. i think fine cut corn polishes a little better.

i like my cases to look like jewelry, so i first clean with walnut, then i polish with corn with an additive (mothers mag wheel polish)
 
oops!!!!

i told you wrong above about the rifle charging die, but since your not loading rifle yet i suppose it didnt hurt too much.

TO CLARIFY: i use the universal charging die with the perfect powder measure for rifles.

for the auto disk measures you need the powder through expander (which should be included in a lee pistol die set)

you had mentioned getting rcbs dies. i would strongly suggest lee die sets if using lee equipment and lee measures.

can you verify if you are getting the standard autodisk, or the pro autodisk?
(i think both will work without a pullback chain. i know the standard autodisk does.
 
My experience with digital scales and calipers are as follows:

I bought a set of digital calipers off of ebay, and got the lyman digital scale as a part of my reloading press kit.

Buy lots of extra batteries for your caliper, since everytime you go out to reload, they'll be dead, you'll want to cuss, and will have to delay reloading for an hour while you run to the store for more batteries.

The digital scale was not accurate at all. Weighing the check weight would have variances of several grains on repeat measurements. My understanding is that they are very sensitive to level, temperature and humidity, not to mention electromagnetic interference from lights (especially fluoroescent).

If you are reloading in a climate controlled room, and your table/bench is level, the scale may or may not be ok - I would weigh and re-weigh a powder charge and/or a check weight several times, as well as check it against a balance scale for the same thing you're weighing. I had no confidence in my digital scale, and bought a used Lyman (Oehler) 10-10 off of ebay - it looks (and is) really old, but works like a charm. I have full confidence in it.

To me, the scale is the most important item in your toolkit when reloading. If you don't have confidence in the weighing and consistency of the powder charges you are throwing, you don't need to be reloading. Do I sound paranoid?

Seriously, I believe that all of the balance scales are made by Oehler, and rebranded by Lee, RCBS, Lyman, etc., so you probably can't go wrong buying any one of their 5-0-5 model scales.

I ultimately ended up replacing my caliper with an analog one (happens to be a Lyman, but I'm sure that Lyman didn't make it). While my cheap digital caliper was consistent and accurate, this analog caliper is much tighter in its action.

Probably more info than you were looking for, but I thought I'd throw it out there as food for thought.
 
Not at all Spammy, thanks for your input. I am planning on getting a balance scale also, but was planning on using this for starting out, and making sure I don't exceed medium pistol loads using it.

thanks for the input Flyin, I am (hopefully; it's what I asked for for Christmas...) getteing the Pro upgraded autodisc.

Thanks also for the input about using Lee dies... I'd wondered about that. I imagine on a single stage the different makers' dies all work well but in a turret/semi progressive where a station may be doing more than one thing it's probably a good idea to stick with the press builder's dies. I'll likely get the lee stuff at least for the powder station.

Also is it worth it to buy extra turret heads for each caliber? They're like $15/ea.
 
You're welcome.

Don't worry about mixing/matching turret heads and dies - I use Lee dies on my Lyman T-Mag turret press.

YES - buy the turret heads - use one for each caliber. It's set-and-forget once you get everything adjusted properly.

For pistol, the Lee 4-die sets have the powder-through expansion die that lets you expand and throw your powder charge at the same time, as well as the factory crimp die, which, to me, is a must for autoloaders and revolvers.
 
Also is it worth it to buy extra turret heads for each caliber? They're like $15/ea.
Click to expand...

definitly.

i dont run the turret press. i have a loadmaster, and i have a different die plate for every caliber, each totally setup with powder measures and all pre adjusted.

i think you can change calibers even faster with the turret if you have your different turrets all setup with dies and everything. (because with my loadmaster i have to change the shellplate and readjust the case retainers in each station.

here is a pretty good video on turret press caliber changing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2sSZIsxPOc
 
no prob.

you helped me quite a bit with my garand pursuits a few years back.
also, eveything spammy said is very good info. (by the way, welcome spammy)
 
Spammy_H said:
Buy lots of extra batteries for your caliper, since everytime you go out to reload, they'll be dead, you'll want to cuss, and will have to delay reloading for an hour while you run to the store for more batteries.
Click to expand...

The inexpensive digital calipers are hard on batteries for a variety of reasons. It seems like the calipers consume batteries whether they are on or off. Keep spare batteries on hand but also remove the battery at the end of the sessioon.

I have experienced expensive measuring equipment that was hard on batteries as well.

The caliper I use most frequently is solar powered. It did not work very well taking measurement up in the bowels of packaging machinery but works great in my reloading room that has lots of light and i don't have to worry about batteries going dead..

My digital scale is accurate and repeatable. Wind currents in the room can affect how a scale reads, including both electronic and beam scales. Also, some electronic scales require a "warm" up period.

When I plan to reload, the first thing I do is turn on the scale. By the time I am ready for it, it has stabilized. I calibrate then zero the scale and then measure the charges from the powder measure. I leave the scale on for the duration of the session. I remove the pan from the scale when I am not actually using it. I re-zero the scale frequently and especially before checking the powder charge in the middle of the reloading session after the scale has idled for a while.
 
FlyinBryan - Thank you very much! I should've introduced myself in the visitor's center!
 
One more annoying question:

Forgive me if I'm an idiot.

From what I've read during intarweb searches, full length resizing is generally not recommended for semi-auto rifles. (Garand, M1A, etc.) Supposedly you need small base resizing dies.

This doesn't make sense to me... doesn't full length resizing return the brass more to a factory dimension than say a neck resizing die?

Do the small base dies full length resize also, and THEN hold the brass to a tighter tolerance or something?

I've also read that small base resized/loaded brass is not recommended in bolt guns. (which I have in both .308 and .30-06 caliber also). Do I really need to buy 2 die sets for each caliber?

None of this makes much sense to me. I'm just trying to figure out which dies to order. help?
 
I don't use small base dies and have no problem. Some folks swear by them though. I would buy regular dies and only get the small base dies if you have a problem. Size to fit a headspace gauge for semi auto and partial full length size for bolt guns.
 
That's a good idea. Wonder if my wife's colander would work... :D
Click to expand...

Actually a colander with coarse openings will work great, but DO NOT use it for food afterward. I found a used one at a thrift store for 15 cents and have been using it ever since. When you find free brass at outdoor ranges, they also work great for washing brass in the utility sink.
 
Walkalong said:
I don't use small base dies and have no problem. Some folks swear by them though. I would buy regular dies and only get the small base dies if you have a problem. Size to fit a headspace gauge for semi auto and partial full length size for bolt guns.
Click to expand...
Uhh... what? Partial full length size? Is that like halfway married? :D

Like I said, I know nearly nothing... forgive me...
 
Uhh... what? Partial full length size? Is that like halfway married?

Like I said, I know nearly nothing... forgive me...
Click to expand...

A full length sizing die will size all the way down the same as a small base die, the small base die just sizes the case .001 smaller in diameter. I don't use a small base die for my AR and have never had a problem. Your kit looks like it has everything you need. Yes you will want to get a turret for every set of dies.

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