old dial caliper

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thomis

thomis

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I have an old Sears (Swiss made) dial caliper. It has stopped working. It is really hard to move back and forth and I have to push hard, all you hear is little teeth stripping. I think its shot but was going to see if anyone has had this problem. Maybe something inside has jumped track. Not sure.
 
Little Teeth Stripping noises is a real bad sign!

It's toast, unless you are a little Swiss Watch Maker who can make tiny brass gears with new teeth on them!

You can buy a perfectly good digital caliper from Harbor Freight for $9.99 or $12.99 with a coupon.
The coupons seem to be in every magazine I pick up lately.
I'd do that.

Since I bought one a little over a year ago, I have hardly touched my perfectly good dial caliper again.

rc
 
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Ouch, I certainly hope there was a little knob on the moving part that was tightened down.

That is used to "lock" the moving part in place in case you want to use the calipers as a "go/no-go" gauge.
 
I had one of those cheap digital calipers last year.
It was really convenient... as long as you had put in a fresh battery in the past week.
It had some sort of constant drain that pulled the battery down fast, so I junked it and bought a cheap dial caliper the next time they were on sale someplace convenient.

But for things like pistol OAL I still pick up my old plastic Sears vernier.
 
Go on line to their website and sign up for their weekly spam email. Coupons fly at you from them every week. Sometimes several times a week.
 
thomis, you have a machine shop near you?
One of the older pre digital machinists might take a look at it for you.
All I've ever used is Starrett and B&S, so I don't know how a Swiss made Sears would be put together.
 
Curious, is it steel or plastic... I remember years ago RCBS had their brand on a plastic Swiss made dial caliper, and by you describing the teeth stripping seemingly so easily, I'm curious to what it is made of. Not to say brass on steel, steel on steel could not strip, just that something is majorly wrong, or very dirty to bind like that if the lock is fully open.
 
Galil5.56 - you are correct. It is plastic. I used it for years. I was using it last night and it was stuck, wouldn't move. I jiggled it. Nothin. I forced it and thats when things went downhill, and fast.
 
Easy to read Vernier calipers? :what:
Thats easy for you to say!!

I had enough trouble reading them when I could still see most of the hair on my arms! :D

rc
 
That's why I like my regular old plain vernier caliper. No dials, no batteries - just an easy to read scale.
Click to expand...

Really?

I had one of those cheap digital calipers last year.
It was really convenient... as long as you had put in a fresh battery in the past week.
It had some sort of constant drain that pulled the battery down fast, so I junked it and bought a cheap dial caliper the next time they were on sale someplace convenient.
Click to expand...

More than likely the battery drain was from the switch buttons being pushed while in the closed case.

To those of you out there who have a set of H/F digital calibers releive the area on the inside of the lid where the buttons would touch. End of problem.

I replace my batteries maybe every other year now.
 
Yep, I keep my Harbor Freight digital caliper out of the box and the battery lasts a very long time.

And easy to read for us blind old farts. :eek:

Besides, it is plenty accurate for 99% of reloading needs, and 100% of most folks reloading needs.

My Mitutoyo stays out in the shed for lathe work, and my old Brown & Sharp caliper/micrometer set stays in the box for the most part. I have not used my ball micrometer in some time.
 
releive the area on the inside of the lid where the buttons would touch.
Click to expand...
+1

I have the instruction booklet folded double and make sure I put it where it bulges the case slightly and keeps the liner from pushing the go button.

My battery is still going strong after almost a year of use.

rc
 
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I got my Mitutoyo at a pawn shop pretty cheap. They didn't know what they had, I really liked pawn shops before the internet. I never go anymore, because instead of finding a low price gem, the internet made it easy to price all used items for twice what a new one costs.

I'd be afraid to use anything from Harbor Freight that my life depended on, and I certainly don't think of them when I think of precision measuring tools. I have a Chinese micrometer, I can't recall where I got it, but it is junk too and I can understand now why Chinese junk is junk --if your "precision" measuring tool that measures .0001" is really only good for .01", well, you get junk with incorrect tolerance. Every tool I've gotten from Harbor Freight has broken in less than a year, some didn't make it past the first job, and I never got anything "Made in China" I was proud of.

I'd say buy made in America, but not many precision tools are manufactured here. Our government made sure of that. So with that in mind, the Japanese really do make the most precise tools for the price. My vote is on Mitutoyo.

My calipers are also older than I am, at least 40. They make a fine tool.
 
My Mitutoyo lasted approx 40 years--it finally broke
My harbor Freight has lasted over a year--if it brakes I have another--both at $9.95
If that brakes I have a Franklin from Midway.
One thousand of an inch does not worry me in reloading---most COL seating is a lot more than that from one cartridge to another
 
Here we go again on a thread bashing an item that gives extras valuer for monies spent. For all of you that bash chinese goods "and I truly wish we had more of our production here" take a look at the country of origin at where your computer came from, or your shoes, and a large percentage of the goods you use in everyday life.

I'd say buy made in America, but not many precision tools are manufactured here. Our government made sure of that. So with that in mind, the Japanese really do make the most precise tools for the price. My vote is on Mitutoyo.
Click to expand...

Better start checking where those Mitu tools are made, many not made in Japan anymore.

Sorry you have such a bad experience with H/F tools, frankly they have given me the opportunity to own tools I never would have been able to afford otherwise.
 
I broke my caliper last nite that I bought from Sear over 30 years ago (I dropped it on concrete floor). Their website indicates it has a lifetime warranty like their other tools, so I'm going to their store tonite for a replacement.
 
JimWatson said...It was really convenient... as long as you had put in a fresh battery in the past week.
Click to expand...

Get a new one, that drain is a malfunction.

I've had a cheap digital one for over 3 years.
Replaced the battery once, about 6-8 months ago.
(and I use it almost everyday.)
 
Get a new one, that drain is a malfunction.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily. If the case cover is keeping the go button pressed a new one isn't going to be any different. Keep it out of the case or take the battery out when not in use. IF it continues to drain the battery THEN get it replaced.
 
"I like my regular old plain vernier caliper. No dials, no batteries - just an easy to read scale."

Arrrggh! I wish my eyes still read my Swiss vernier easily!

I got a Chinese 6" steel Midway dial caliper some 15 years ago. My Jo blocks say it's within a quarter thou or better everywhere I check. SO... when I needed another I looked at the Harbor Freights, they appear identical except for Midway's black plastic label. And they too are quite accurate.

Soo... I later decided I could use a digital and got another HF, it works fine and may be even more accurate than the dial types! (I did cut away the plastic foam in the storage box lid so it can't push the 'ON' button) And it can switch from inch to metric with a button push - that's helpful at times.

Anyone wanting to say all Chinese stuff is junk would do well not to check the "Made In.." labels on their computer, modem, router, TV, watch, cell phone, GPS, kitchen appliances, hand and power tools, camera, printer, etc.
 
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