Old Russian(Murom) hmf SPP

[stonebuster]

I couple of weeks ago I posted I bought 1000 of these old Russian hmf(heavy metal free) SPP and would let you know how they worked(or didn't). Last week I loaded 20 rounds of 38spl, using Berrys 125gr plated flat point over 4.5gr HP-38 (starting load 4.3gr) & Russian SPP primers. They sounded anemic when I shot them and left a lot of unburned powder on the cylinder and inside of barrel after 3 shots. The fourth shot was a squib getting stuck between the forcing cone and cylinder. I had checked every round visually for powder prior to seating so that was not the issue. I was able to tap it back out with a solid brass rod. I started with this load since I had good results with that load but with Xtreme plated not Berrys. Rookie mistake I know and not a good test. Today I loaded 50 38spl, 125gr Xtreme FP over 4.8gr HP-38 using Seller and Belloit SPP. I loaded 15 using the same bullet, seating and crimp with the Russian primers and shot them today. All fifty that had the S&B SPP shot clean and sounded strong. I shot 3 rounds with the Russian primers which sounded weaker and left unburnt powder in the barrel. Maybe they degraded in storage but what I got is unreliable and would advise against them.

 

[FROGO207]

Thanks for taking the time to let us know about your testing. Too bad they did not work out for you!

 

[Bfh_auto]

View attachment 1016795 I couple of weeks ago I posted I bought 1000 of these old Russian hmf(heavy metal free) SPP and would let you know how they worked(or didn't). Last week I loaded 20 rounds of 38spl, using Berrys 125gr plated flat point over 4.5gr HP-38 (starting load 4.3gr) & Russian SPP primers. They sounded anemic when I shot them and left a lot of unburned powder on the cylinder and inside of barrel after 3 shots. The fourth shot was a squib getting stuck between the forcing cone and cylinder. I had checked every round visually for powder prior to seating so that was not the issue. I was able to tap it back out with a solid brass rod. I started with this load since I had good results with that load but with Xtreme plated not Berrys. Rookie mistake I know and not a good test. Today I loaded 50 38spl, 125gr Xtreme FP over 4.8gr HP-38 using Seller and Belloit SPP. I loaded 15 using the same bullet, seating and crimp with the Russian primers and shot them today. All fifty that had the S&B SPP shot clean and sounded strong. I shot 3 rounds with the Russian primers which sounded weaker and left unburnt powder in the barrel. Maybe they degraded in storage but what I got is unreliable and would advise against them.

Do you have any flake pistol powder? It ignites more easily and might work with the weaker primers.

 

[stonebuster]

Do you have any flake pistol powder? It ignites more easily and might work with the weaker primers.

I haven't given up on them yet and plan on trying some other powders the seller recommended after checking if they're suitable for 38spl. They included Bullseye, Cleanshot, Accurate#2, H110, N330, CFE. I contacted the seller and he told me to try some other powders and he'd be willing to refund or send me another brick. He told me he only had one other person (who used ball powder) have an issue out of the 300 bricks he's sold. I believe he's a stand up guy and I can't ask more than he's offered. BTW, I've used CCI SPP & SRP, Winchester SPP and Seller & Belloit SPP with these same loads and not had an issue.

 

[EricBu]

I haven't given up on them yet and plan on trying some other powders the seller recommended after checking if they're suitable for 38spl. They included Bullseye, Cleanshot, Accurate#2, H110, N330, CFE. I contacted the seller and he told me to try some other powders and he'd be willing to refund or send me another brick. He told me he only had one other person (who used ball powder) have an issue out of the 300 bricks he's sold. I believe he's a stand up guy and I can't ask more than he's offered. BTW, I've used CCI SPP & SRP, Winchester SPP and Seller & Belloit SPP with these same loads and not had an issue.

I'd try TiteGroup. That seems to work really well with Murom (Tula primers are Murom btw) non-toxic primers, especially the older ones which were known to be a bit anemic. I have tried some of the new production "Ft Smith" branded murom small pistol non-toxic primers which are also produced by Murom. They are not as anemic as the older production ones, but they do not seem to be quite as hot as standard primers either.

 

[mdi]

Got a chronograph? Velocity of the "weak" feeling shots would be interesting...

 

[stonebuster]

Got a chronograph? Velocity of the "weak" feeling shots would be interesting...

I haven't got a chronograph yet. I started reloading last December and haven't gotten around to it yet but I will before long.

 

[Bfh_auto]

I haven't given up on them yet and plan on trying some other powders the seller recommended after checking if they're suitable for 38spl. They included Bullseye, Cleanshot, Accurate#2, H110, N330, CFE. I contacted the seller and he told me to try some other powders and he'd be willing to refund or send me another brick. He told me he only had one other person (who used ball powder) have an issue out of the 300 bricks he's sold. I believe he's a stand up guy and I can't ask more than he's offered. BTW, I've used CCI SPP & SRP, Winchester SPP and Seller & Belloit SPP with these same loads and not had an issue.

Stay away from h110 and CFE-P with weak primers. Both require good primers for proper ignition.
I've gotten failure to ignite with standard cci primers and starting charges of cfe in 38 special.

 

[stonebuster]

Stay away from h110 and CFE-P with weak primers. Both require good primers for proper ignition.
I've gotten failure to ignite with standard cci primers and starting charges of cfe in 38 special.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[stonebuster]

I'd try TiteGroup. That seems to work really well with Murom (Tula primers are Murom btw) non-toxic primers, especially the older ones which were known to be a bit anemic. I have tried some of the new production "Ft Smith" branded murom small pistol non-toxic primers which are also produced by Murom. They are not as anemic as the older production ones, but they do not seem to be quite as hot as standard primers either.

FedEx is delivering TiteGroup tomorrow. Going to try again one more time. Thanks for the suggestion. Natchez had a sale on it. Super fast shipping day after I ordered 3 pounds.

 

[stonebuster]

I'd try TiteGroup. That seems to work really well with Murom (Tula primers are Murom btw) non-toxic primers, especially the older ones which were known to be a bit anemic. I have tried some of the new production "Ft Smith" branded murom small pistol non-toxic primers which are also produced by Murom. They are not as anemic as the older production ones, but they do not seem to be quite as hot as standard primers either.

I tried 30 125gr Xtreme FP over 4.5gr TiteGroup with Murom primers & identical load with Seller & Belloit primers (50 rnds) Both batches with a moderate crimp(lee fcd) All 30 with Murom primers shot strong with no unburnt powder visible in barrel or cylinder. S&B batch cases looked slightly more dirty and a couple flakes of unburned powder a few times out of 50 rnds. I'll load up another 50 and test again. Seems the TiteGroup burns a little hotter/faster? Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[stonebuster]

I reloaded another 50 rounds with Russian primers/ 125gr Xtreme FP/4.5gr TiteGroup & 50 rnds w/125gr Berrys FP. Both batches shot clean and strong with no issues. I loaded 50rnds 125gr Xtreme/4.5 gr TG/ CCI#500 SPP and didn't see any difference in performance. The Murom primers seem to work well with TG.