Once Fired Turkish Surplus and a 98 Mauser

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kcofohio

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A while back I received some berdan primed once-fired (Turkish) brass casings from the PIF thread. After hydraulically depriming, I full length resized and trimmed. Reprimed and, using IMR4198 and some 190 gr. lead gas-checked bullet, I did a workup of loads. This was the first time reloading with lead bullets in 8x57.

I get to the range, and I'm finding I can't close the bolt on the rifle on several rounds. The bolt handle would start going down, then a dead stop. I went on to some other reloads with 170 gr. bullets that worked fine. I figured maybe because I didn't crimp, that could have caused this.

I eventually got around to running all these loads through the crimping die. But still the same thing. I put them on the back burner, went on to other things, and forgot about them until last week. I began to think maybe the bullet was hitting the rifling lands, though I seated them to the suggested depth, per Lyman's manual.

Got out the ol sharpie and marked three cartridges from the shoulder up, thinking maybe the shoulder wasn't sized back far enough. There was scuff marks on one side of the bullets. But I determined that was the bullet entering the bore (throat) before centering. No marks on the neck or shoulder. One of the three allowed me to close the bolt, but with a bit of resistance.

Next, I marked the whole of the three cartridges. After running them in, when I met resistance, I pulled them out. After a bit, I seen the slightest scrape just above the extracting groove, in the web area. I found if I rotated the cartridges, I could get them to chamber with the slight resistance.

It seems that at their first firing, either from high pressure, or low quality of brass, the web area to the head had expanded beyond the norm. Then I checked them with the shell holder and had trouble inserting the cases into the holder, like they snapped in.

So now, I'll pull the bullets and scrap the brass. Sharpies tell the tale. :)
Man, I like a good challenge.

I gotta give due credit. It was rcmodel that I first read of him suggesting to someone the sharpie (permanent marker) approach.
 
Small-base die required.
BTW:
- Not crimping has never caused bolt-closure problems. CrimpingWhileSeating has....
- Bullet seated out too far usually never causes failure to close problems in a bolt action either. The camming leverage just seats them deeper.
 
A while back I received some berdan primed once-fired (Turkish) brass casings from the PIF thread. After hydraulically depriming, I full length resized and trimmed. Reprimed and, using IMR4198 and some 190 gr. lead gas-checked bullet, I did a workup of loads. This was the first time reloading with lead bullets in 8x57.

I get to the range, and I'm finding I can't close the bolt on the rifle on several rounds. The bolt handle would start going down, then a dead stop. I went on to some other reloads with 170 gr. bullets that worked fine. I figured maybe because I didn't crimp, that could have caused this.

I eventually got around to running all these loads through the crimping die. But still the same thing. I put them on the back burner, went on to other things, and forgot about them until last week. I began to think maybe the bullet was hitting the rifling lands, though I seated them to the suggested depth, per Lyman's manual.

Got out the ol sharpie and marked three cartridges from the shoulder up, thinking maybe the shoulder wasn't sized back far enough. There was scuff marks on one side of the bullets. But I determined that was the bullet entering the bore (throat) before centering. No marks on the neck or shoulder. One of the three allowed me to close the bolt, but with a bit of resistance.

Next, I marked the whole of the three cartridges. After running them in, when I met resistance, I pulled them out. After a bit, I seen the slightest scrape just above the extracting groove, in the web area. I found if I rotated the cartridges, I could get them to chamber with the slight resistance.

It seems that at their first firing, either from high pressure, or low quality of brass, the web area to the head had expanded beyond the norm. Then I checked them with the shell holder and had trouble inserting the cases into the holder, like they snapped in.

So now, I'll pull the bullets and scrap the brass. Sharpies tell the tale. :)
Man, I like a good challenge.

I gotta give due credit. It was rcmodel that I first read of him suggesting to someone the sharpie (permanent marker) approach.

Another great use for a sharpie!

Unfortunately, I picked up a large quantity of that Turk 8mm surplus awhile back. A full third of them were misfires and the ones that did fire were unbelievably corrosive. I pulled the bullets on the misfires and had many case mouths shatter in the process. The brass had crystalized badly due to degraded powder. I ended up scrapping the whole case.

Not being too bright, I then bought a sizeable quantity of that Turkish "Nato" .308 at walmart. This stuff was out spec from the box, resulting in many stuck cases in both my '99 Savage and my FR8.

Never again.:(
 
Small-base die required.
BTW:
- Not crimping has never caused bolt-closure problems. CrimpingWhileSeating has....
- Bullet seated out too far usually never causes failure to close problems in a bolt action either. The camming leverage just seats them deeper.
I did a search and haven't yet found any small base dies for 8x57. I'm not sure it would be worth the 35 or 40 pieces to have a special die made. Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems the case is enlarged down into where it fits the shell holder.

I wasn't sure about whether lead bullets being a tad oversize would make a difference on the neck.

I agree, the neck tension isn't that strong. Guess I was grasping for straws.
 
After hydraulically depriming, I full length resized and trimmed.

A bit off the subject .. I have never reloaded Berdan brass because I didn't know they could be deprimed. If you have a link to hydraulic depriming, I would appreciate it. I have a bunch of 9mm Steyr that I could reuse.
 
A bit off the subject .. I have never reloaded Berdan brass because I didn't know they could be deprimed. If you have a link to hydraulic depriming, I would appreciate it. I have a bunch of 9mm Steyr that I could reuse.
The hydraulic method works fair for rifle casings, because of the volume of water it will hold. I'm not sure how well it would work with pistol casings. But here is a video to give the general idea. Note, in the video, the guy has a steel base with 2 holes. I'm guessing that is for 2 different cartridges.

 
That is not only a very cool tool for the job, but dedication on the part of the reloader.
You're right. Most of the videos I have seen in the past were done outside with a lot of mess. This guy has a clean environment inside with minimal mess. Neatly presented.
 
The hydraulic method works fair for rifle casings, because of the volume of water it will hold. I'm not sure how well it would work with pistol casings. But here is a video to give the general idea. Note, in the video, the guy has a steel base with 2 holes. I'm guessing that is for 2 different cartridges.


And now we have people complaining about how long it takes to load an AR may. That guy must have a lot of free time or a love for obsolete things.
 
I'm not fully clear on the nature of the original problem, but maybe this will help:

I have a bolt action 30-30 with a chamber that is slightly undersized. New factory ammunition fits just fine, as does new brass. But even after full length sizing, range brass will not fit.

Cartridges made with range brass go in until they are about 1/4" short of fully seating. The problem is the pressure ring that forms just forward of the cartridge web.

They don't make small base 30-30 dies. So how does a cheap guy like me successfully use abundant and cheap range brass?

I bought a Lee forming die body for about $6. Then I cut it off at the shoulder, leaving the straight tapered portion. Finally, I ground off about 1/8" from the bottom of the die, and refinished the inner edge so it wasn't sharp. That gets the base of the die up into an area where the diameter of the die body is smaller. It's a funny looking little thing, but it has enough thread that it can be placed in the press. It irons out the pressure ring and squeezes the base down a little. Voila! Range brass can be refinished to fit in the under size chamber.

Maybe something like that could help with your rifle.
 
The hydraulic method works fair for rifle casings, because of the volume of water it will hold. I'm not sure how well it would work with pistol casings. But here is a video to give the general idea. Note, in the video, the guy has a steel base with 2 holes. I'm guessing that is for 2 different cartridges.



Would make no difference on pistol cartridges. Water is not compressible so shape has no restriction. The only restriction would be fully support the brass where. A smaller ram would be required for bottle neck cartridges. It would just require a little more travel and the neck and shoulder must be supported.
 
If I knew some of the brass was rotten......... I'd figure it would be dangerous to shoot not to mention reload. Be careful!!!!
 
If I knew some of the brass was rotten......... I'd figure it would be dangerous to shoot not to mention reload. Be careful!!!!
I did the paper clip feeler to each case. Pressures shouldn't be a problem with the loads in there. The velocities should be around 1700-1900 fps. I don't remember if Lyman listed a pressure for these loads or not.
 
A bit off the subject .. I have never reloaded Berdan brass because I didn't know they could be deprimed. If you have a link to hydraulic depriming, I would appreciate it. I have a bunch of 9mm Steyr that I could reuse.
I should add, finding berdan primers may be near impossible these days. Since the band of Russian products into our country, they have disappeared of the shelves. Maybe you can find them at gun shows. But I would hate to think of the price on them.
 
Would make no difference on pistol cartridges. Water is not compressible so shape has no restriction. The only restriction would be fully support the brass where. A smaller ram would be required for bottle neck cartridges. It would just require a little more travel and the neck and shoulder must be supported.
I was thinking of how the water pressure must be directed into the case, and not permitted to go around the outside of the case.
 
If I knew some of the brass was rotten......... I'd figure it would be dangerous to shoot not to mention reload. Be careful!!!!

I agree. I've shot a lot of the surplus 8x57 ammo that came in back in the 90s. Much was Turk. A lot of the brass would get split necks. Some down into the shoulder just shooting the original load. This is with 8-10 different rifles. All with good head space, chambers and bores.. Plus different years from 1939 thru the 40's into the 50s. Seems like hard, brittle brass. I never had anything dangerous happen like partial or full head seperations. I still have a lot left but I pull the bullets and download them 10% for safety and less recoils. Theres better surplus 8x57 cases to play with that many guys just scrap if you ask around. Scrap the Turk IMO.
 
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