Ordering new nipples

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Ferret

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OK.. this may be a stupid question (or a question by a stupid guy) but...
What size nipples do I need to order for an 1860 Pietta and an 1858 (NMA) replica?
I know that they are all No 11 but, what screw size, etc??
Am i correct with 6 X 0.75mm?
Does anyone have a recommendation on brand and supplier?
 
Ferret: If you have a Cabelas cat. or store nearby, they carry sets of nipples for Italian revolvers. Hope this helps:evil:
 
Ferret, you are correct. 6mm x .75 nipples will fit both your Pietta revolvers. If you don't have a Dixie Gun Works catalog, you ought to send off for one even if you buy from somewhere else. They list a lot of specs, including what nipple the gun takes in each ad.

Steve
 
If you don't have a Dixie Gun Works catalog, you ought to send off for one
I agree, Manyirons very kindly sent me one over and it is full of info - well worth the $5.
Duncan
 
The smith has everything, it seems. :)

I'd reckon that his would be much higher quality than the imported ones, as well. Do you want some information on where to get them?
 
I've got an 1858 made by Ubeti and those nipples won't fit my gun. They will fit a Pietta though. Does anyone know if the spare cylinders that Cabelas sells will work in my Uberti? I figure it should work but you never know. I'd rather know before I go and order a few.

The Sicilian.
 
Ifin i can help ya out, i will, just get me tha size ya need, i'll check stock and get back to ya.

PLEASE everbody be PATIENT with me, i'm learnin, and I DONT know it all or even half yet, but i PROMISE i'll do tha very best i can for ya!!
 
Thanks Manyirons, I think I'll have to visit Uberti.com, they should know what size their nipples are. My nipples (1858) :what: seem to like CCI #10's compared to everyone eles's liking #11's. Maybe it has something to do with it being made by Uberti? Oh well, would have been easier if they we standard thread sizes. I now have three Pietta nipples to hang on to until I get a hold of another gun. No big deal, I've been thinking about getting an 1860 I saw the other day. It's going for $219.00 and is made by Pietta. It's a beautiful gun, no flaws at all, spectacular. Do you think that is a fair price for an 1860?
 
Go here.

Buy any nipple you want, fit any pistol you got, if you don't know what you got, send them one, they will match and send what you need.

http://www.thunder-ridge-muzzleloading.com/nip_x_ref.htm

Decide what you want, buy what they tell you is the best for what you want. You even have a choice as to whether you use 10 or 11 caps. 10, buy this brand, 11, buy the other. Make all your guns use the same size caps. A godsend in itself.

Cheers,

George
 
Um, not ta put TOO fina point on it but TRESOS here too and no charge for shippen.

Yessir boss! On tha job sir! (THA MANN can read my mail here now ifin he cares!)
 
Sicilian,

Only following your directive to not say anything to you unless I am not critical of you.

It was directed more to any others who need the info.

Good grief, I don't want the Dons to come rapping on my door. Could I outshoot them with BP?

Cheerrs,

George
 
Come on gmatov,

All that bull is forgotten, I figured we'd be cool with each other sooner or later. Remember though, I never had a problem with you. For some reason you were a little pissed or angry with what I wrote and you let me have it. We all have bad days and mis-interpret what others write. If you can forget about it then I can forget about. Let's start over and be friends? :D I just reacted to what you wrote, it really wasn't may intention to never speak to you again. I just wanted a touch of common respect, that's all.

On another note, if my sight (front) is off a little and the gun is shooting a little to the right, which way should the sight be moved? My buddy told me to move it to the right but another guy said I should move it to the left. I figured the only reason it should or would be moved to the left is if the sight was misaligned to begin with, but the front sight is centered so shouldn't that mean that it needs to be moved to the right? The point of aim was 6 o' clock at the bottom of the black and the gun shot a little to the right (about two inches off). The gun has a fixed back sight grooved (It's an 1858 Uberti, .44) My buddy is an excellent target shooter and said the it was a nice feeling gun. He said I should just get the sight realigned. he tried to do it with a little brass punch and a tiny hammer but the front sight is really in there! I'm hitting a gunsmith tonight to get it done. I should probably do it myself but I'd rather see it done properly before I ever give it a try.

The Sicilian.
 
OK, it's over. Heck, it was before. I haven't been posting here, or anywhere, much, because very few are posting anywhere much.

Been spending more of my time at machining forums, more people with more questions and problems.

As for sights, just imagine a ruler laid on the barrel. Look at what happens when you move the front of it in either direction.

If you move it to the right a little, pretend it's the line of flight with the sights dead on target and dead center with the frame and barrel. Now move the ruler and barrel so the ruler is pointed dead at the target. In your case, the sights would be pointed 2 inches to the left of the bull. So you move the front right to line up with the ruler. That will bring your point of aim and point of impact together. The barrels are not perfectly centered, the hole might be at an angle, as some have posted here and other places. Look at the muzzle, see if the barrel is thicker on one side or the other.

25 yards is 900 inches. The pistol is about 10 inches from back sight to front. 90 times the distance. 1 thousandth inch movement of the front sight will move the ball's strike 90 thousandths. If you are consistently 2 inches to the right, move the front sight 22 thousandths to the right, you should be dead on.

I wouldn't expect you to use a mike or something. Tap it so you know it did move, try it, move a little more, if you go too far, just a smidge back will put you home. If you want to be fancy, buy yourself a sight pusher. Like a C-clamp, lets you tiny moves, doesn't mar the bluing like a drift and hammer might. Even a brass drift has a tendency to leave brass on a blued surface. Needs to be scrubbed off.

Silly question, I forget which model of 58 you have. Mine all have post front sight, brazed or welded into a pocket in the barrel, unmovable. Yours is the Target or Shooter's or somesuch, with the dovetailed front sight?

Cheers,

George
 
Hey George,

Mines an 1858 New Army made by Uberti, and yes, the front sight is dove tailed and moveable but it's not the target model. The smithy tried his best to move it but wasn't really sure if it moved or not. He tried to talk me out of moving it, said these guns were made to hit center mass and were no good for target shooting. I tend to disagree with that opinion after seeing what my friend and some of you guys can do with these old replicas. I guess he's right historically, they were made for killing but they are still very accurate in their own right. He scarred up my sight a little but so did my buddy when he tried to move it. Apparently it's really stuck on there well. I'll have to find out if he moved is succesfully or not next trip to the range. It's hard to tell if he moved it or not by eye.

My buddy told me about that special clamp, maybe that's the only way to move my front sight blade, what do you think George? These guys wern't real gun smiths, tyhey just do minor tinkering around with peoples guns. They really don't mess with anything that takes a lot of skill and knowledge. I'd mail it to the Man if I had a spare .44 to shoot with, but right know all I got is that little .31 and it's not as satisfying to shoot as a nice big hand cannon like the 1858. I'm thinking of getting a second large size gun fairly soon. I'd like to get the ruger Old Army in stainless but it's very expensive. SO I'll either get an 1851 stainless that I've got my eye on or an 1860. Which would you recommend if I can't get the money up soon enough for the Ruger Old Army?

Back to the front sight blade: So...should I leave it be or try again if there was no change in what the gun smithy did? Seems like Uberti really stuck that front sight on tight! I guess I can live with a 2 in difference...no...I'd rather not. Are your guns sighted in really nice or are some of them like mine? There is a two inch difference at 50 feet, I wonder what will happen at 25 yards, and so on? I hope this little ajustment did the trick. I wish I could tell whether or not it did the trick by looking at it :banghead: Thanks for your help George, I know you know what you're talking about, I respect your opinion.

The Sicilian.
 
Sicilian, If you are shooting at 50 feet, my calculacations were for 75 feet, 25 yards, the hit will be at least 3 inches right, instead of 2, just mebbe more, harder to hold center, have to move the front sight further, mebbe..

A sight pusher, aka adjusting tool is not hat expensive, can be used for any arm you have with dovetailed sights.

Cheers,

George

Edit:

Bull****, they ain't made to hit "center mass" which would be like saying they will put a cylinder or a 15 round mag into a 15 inch circle at combat ranges. They are just as accurate as any revolver made today at the range they are designed for, and that goes to at LEAST 50 yards.

ANY decent pistol has an adjustable sight. A 500 buck Glock might say their cast in sights are centered to hit the body mass. Don't believe it. Sights are made to be adjustable, so you can tune the pistol to hit where YOU holkd it, to where it goes when you "yank" it, as opposed to squeezing it on the bench.

I have a few with cast sights, they will shoot to where the sights are set, I can only allow for the misalignment, hope to hit what I "POINT" at, aim is wiorthless.

These are semis. I have NO revolvers that do not have adjustable sights. Rems with the fixed front post, I do have.. I mean the cartridge guns, the Colt cap'n balls are non adjustable, too, unless you consider grinding the hammer notch to regulate.

You shoud buy a Colt pistol next. I think that would get you mre hooked than you are now. They are beautiful as compared to Rems, though the Rem might be stronger.

Cheers,

George
 
Thanks George,

I totally agree with you, these guns are definitely as accurate as modern pistols, especially after seeing what a good shooter can do with it! It seems like a lot of people have something against BP pistols but I can't figure out why? I tend to shoot mine with more accuracy then a lot of guys at the range and I've only been shooting for 5 weeks :what: And most of these guys are shooting at 25 and 30 feet...no challenge what so ever (in my opinion) Maybe they're practicing for home invasion or something, who knows?

After handling the Colt models (not shooting, just handling) they do seem very comfortable in the hand and they are beautiful guns. I used to think loading and changing out cylinders would be a hassle but after owning a small .31 Colt I've lost my criticism of the wedge design, it's really no big deal. Both the 1851 and the 1860 feel awesome in the hand and I figure that will transfer over to shooting too. The only thing I don't care for is the back hammer sites but I imagine after shooting them a couple of times it becomes second nature. Besides, my little Colt is very tiny, after all, so I can't properly guage the larger Colts by shooting the .31.

I gotta stop listening to these modern pistol shooters, seems like they all think they know about BP pistols but they really don't know ****e! I had another gun owner tell me that they wern't accurate because the powder is not "modern" and the balls travel too slow.He also said anything shaving lead off of the projectile cannot be consistant or accurate. That makes no damn sense to me, as long as a person knows their weapon they should be able to hit what they aim for, taking practice into consideration. I noticed you didn't mention anything about the Ruger Old Army...Don't you like them? They seem like awesome guns, just a little over-priced in my view. They should be more around $400.00 instead of $600 Thanks for the advice George,

The Sicilian.
 
Gmatov

I have a question, comment, statement, if you please.
A sight pusher needs a relatively flat surface to work,
does it not? I would think that a round or octagon
barrel would not be suitable for that tool.
Does it need to be modified in some way?


Thanks in advance. I come here to learn.

Tinker2
 
Tinker2,

Actually, the sight pusher is designend FOR rifle barrels and pistol barrerls, and most of them ARE round OR octagon. I will have to hunt one up and post a link. I do not think they are all THAT expensive.

Sicilian,

Why are you not at 75 feet? Most of us shoot 25 yards, it's a little difficult for us to see the result of your 15 yard targets, when most shoot 25. You know, "Hey, that's fantastic." But if it's 15 instead, it's more like "Hell, I can put them in a playong card at that range, too."

If your range doesn't have a 25 yard range, well and good. Can't fault you for that. Get it to shoot at 25, you should be on a decent sized target at 50 and 100 yards. They WILL shoot that far, and pretty accurately.

Cheers,

George

Edit, Just went to Brownells, their sight pusher is 60 plus dollars, would not buy one if my sights depended on it. Absolutely unconscionable. BTW, they have BIG name brands for about 500 bucks. I think this is another screw them little pipple thing.
 
gmatov,

I shoot at 50 feet (16 or so yards) because I just started. I figured it's better to gain a little confidence and then slowly move out to 25 yards in increments of two yards or so. That way I'll see results and won't get discouraged. You gotta walk before you can run, know what I mean? If you have a good reason why I should move to 25 yards before I'm ready I'll take it into consideration :neener:

-mario.
 
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