P-64 Springs

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Maj Dad

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I couldn't find anything searching, so let me ask: what springs would you recommend for the Polish P-64 to ease up on the Herculean effort it takes to fire it double action (and rack the slide as well)? Wolff has a reduced power pak of 1 ea 18, 19 & 20 lb hammer springs (they say 24 lb is std but don't offer it, and I don't want it!), and recoil springs of standard 18 & extra power 20 & 22 lb. It needs something! The single action trigger is actually pretty nice, but everything else requires extra-power arms... :scrutiny:
 
Most guys use the 18 pound hammer spring and the heaviest recoil spring Wolff makes for it. Most of the 9X18 ammo that's available is a little heavier than what it was designed around so the recoil spring helps somewhat.

This site is very useful for a P-64 owner: http://www.p64resource.com
 
I like it stock. After a few weeks of dry firing, it's nice and smooth and easy. And I can now curl 50 pounds with my index finger. :)
 
Who knows? Not me. My older one has a slightly crunchy, hard da pull and the other feels like about 10-15 and is smooth even for first shot on targets. Get the hammer multi-pack but watch the recoil springs: too strong might mess up the extraction. I bought new recoil springs but have not installed them yet.
 
I have no experience with the spring installation or modifications, but have looked into it as I have a few of these gems and want to also swap out the springs.

I've been told that if you go light on the double action, then the single action is way too light. I've been recommended the 20lb spring; frankly I would just buy a few packs and experienment. The shipping is the real expense - not the springs. So just buy several and try them...
 
I keep mine stock as well. I consider it single-action only can carry in condition 2.

Considering how small it is, it really is a breeze (and quick enough) to pull back the hammer for the first shot. This gives me all 7 rounds with the sweet SA trigger.

Let us know how your project turns out should you decide to go that route.
 
Thanks to all - I went ahead & ordered the 18# hammer spring & will leave the stock recoil spring. I ordered a bunch of stuff from Wolff & Brownell's so I can fiddle if I want, but after a lot of reading here & on other sites, the 18 seems to be one that generally functions well with the majority of the pistols. Since the SA pull is already superb, the worst case scenario is leaving everything stock.
Cheers,
George J.
(I'll post an update after I get the parts & try it out)
 
Ok, this is just an idea. Don't take this as a recommendation. But for the guys that just cannot handle the DA pull, this could be something you want to know.

You CAN remove the decocking feature on the P-64 by modifying the disconnector. There are spare parts on gunbroker, regularly. Disconnectors are typically $15.00 -$20.00 or so. Some guy has 50 of them for sale right now @ 15.00.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=233391103

If you're mechanically inclined, you'll figure it out in just a few seconds. The angled forward bottom edge of the disconnector is what pushes the sear free during decocking. If you take off the right grip panel, you can see where this edge interacts with a triangular shaped nub sticking off the bottom end of the sear. If you grind out that edge of the disconnector, the gun will no longer decock. You could also grind off that nub on the sear, but sears are much less common and usually cost more.

The gun can then be carried cocked and locked. But you must make sure the sear is fully engaged when the safety comes off. If you don't remove enough material, you could create a dangerous situation where the gun partially decocks.

The gun is fairly easy to decock manually if you take your time, if you want DA for any reason. I decock manually by:

1. point in a safe direction
2. block firing pin with thumb
3. pull trigger
4. release trigger to engage halfcock notch
5. turn on manual safety to engage hammer block and firing pin block
6. lower hammer while continuing to point in a safe direction.

The main benefit of doing this is that the gun is not drop safe unless the manual safety is on. When the pistol is dropped on the hammer, the halfcock notch can fail and the gun can AD. Also the gun may fire if dropped muzzle down. The manual safety physically blocks both the firing pin and the hammer.

So the guys that think they can just carry it around with the safety off and cock it for SA fire, they might want to think again. You should really keep the manual safety on anytime a round is chambered. So you'd have to remove the manual safety and then cock the hammer in order to fire the first shot in SA. Same goes for DA carry. Yeah, it's a heavy first pull, but you should still leave the safety on.

I have read two reports of the gun AD'ing when dropped with hammer down and safety off. Both were posted on the "unofficial P64 forum." In both cases, the gun was dropped indoors, so we're not talking about a hard hit on concrete. In both cases the gun fired upwards, not muzzle down. The first account was a year ago. The owner dropped the gun while putting it back in his safe. He was shot in the arm. The second account was a month ago, or so. The gun fired through the ceiling, just inches from the owner's head.
 
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I did not do much experimenting with my p64. I went with the 19# hammer and 22# recoil spring. I also made up a bunch of trigger return springs from piano wire to increase the too light (IMO) SA trigger. The da on mine is still a bit hefty but the SA is now very nice. I have heard of FTEs when going with lighter than 19# hammer springs but I have no first hand experience with that.
 
I've got an 18lb hammer and 22lb recoil in mine. Both work great!


Sent by Brown's Custom Grips using Tapatalk!
 
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