+P for a Model 10 ?

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Loyalist Dave

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Hey all you Smith & Wesson Model 10 experts..., My dad inherited a snub nosed model 10-7, serial number begins with 8D31XXX. Now, he also owns a Model 13, and uses +P rounds out of that, and I'd like to know if he can use the same ammo, sparingly, out of the 10-7, or should I get him a lighter SD load for that handgun?


LD
 
I don't think it will hurt it but I load up my 1965 vintage Model 10-5 with Buffalo Bore 158gr LSWCHP (standard pressure). It's one of the most powerful standard pressure .38spl rounds out there.

I'm not a reloader but as I understand it the 38spl of today is less powerful than the 38spl of 40+ years ago. Apparently a 38spl round from the 1950's is loaded approx. equal to a 38+P round made today. I'm sure someone with more in depth knowledge on this will be along shortly to explain it better.
 
+P .38 isn't all that big a deal, especially the 158 grain lead offerings. Light JHP is a little harder on'em, but a limited amount should be fine. As with any gun, the more intense the ammunition, the faster the gun will wear. Nature of the beast. A Chevy Impala will go over a hundred thousand with normal driving, but if you try to run 500 laps at Talledega with the engine at redline, you'll be lucky to finish the race.

The Model 13 is a .357 Magnum. It should handle a steady diet of +P .38 for years.
 
When the M&P (now model 10) was designed, .38spl was hotter then it is now, some say hotter than current +p presures. Soooo, it is fine. Actually, all I shoot out of mine is +p or pretty hot (to +p presures) reloads. Mines a 10-8 but even on the way old pre model 10's like the old M&Ps it is fine to shoot nothing but +p. As are most if not all S&W revolvers the 10 is way overbuilt.
 
+P for a Model 10 ?
Hey all you Smith & Wesson Model 10 experts..., My dad inherited a snub nosed model 10-7, serial number begins with 8D31XXX. Now, he also owns a Model 13, and uses +P rounds out of that, and I'd like to know if he can use the same ammo, sparingly, out of the 10-7, or should I get him a lighter SD load for that handgun?

I don't know if 99% of the people out there could ever buy enough 38 +p ammo to give a S&W M10 issues. Shoot it and don't worry about it!
 
Speaking from experience my 10-5 has gotten a steady diet of some pretty stout 38 loads. No problems at all. I'm no expert but snubby has no visable signs of disdain for heavy loads.

DSC_2108.jpg
 
RC Model quote from http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6754340#post6754340

The SAAMI .38 Spl +P rating system came about in 1974.
At that time standard pressure was lowered, +P was increased very slightly over what used to be standard pressure, and Hi-Speed ammo was dropped from production.

Prior to 1974:
The Standard pressure 158 LRN grain factory load was rated at 855 FPS.
The Hi-Speed load was rated at 1,090 FPS.

Under todays standard, the same 158 grain load is rated at 755 FPS.
The +P is rated at 890 FPS.

As you can see, +P is no more likely to damage a modern gun then standard ammo was likely to damage it in 1970, or 1950, or 1930.

And it is way less likely to damage it then those old Hi-Speed loads.

rc
 
#3

Factory +P ammo.

3. Factory loaded .38 Special ammo marked +P is not overloaded, is under allowable pressure standards, and will work fine in any quality made revolver made since the tempering of gun steel became routine (sometime in the late 1920s).


Pictured is my 1942 M&P with the 500 rounds of +P and some of the 600 rounds of +P+ I shot through it to see if anything would happen. I was not surprised at all when nothing did. Just to top it off I ran some 38/44s through it last weekend (158@1125) with no effect.



standard.jpg
 
I like your style Saxon! OP Dave, I wouldn't sweat it. My Model 10-7 2" has received nothing but +P in 158 SWC HP and now the Speer 135 Short Barrel. Tight as the day it came out of the box. Bill
 
S&W has said that pretty much all their K-Frame and larger revolvers are fine with +P ammo. They do not recommend it with their older aluminum J-Frame revolvers, though.
 
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