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Patch Material for Muzzle Loaders

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by loose noose, Oct 9, 2012.

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  1. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    Here I've been talking about shooting BP for several months, as well as building BP arms, favored cleaning proceedures, and never once have I mentioned what I use for lubed patches. In fact dry lubed patches. Back around January of 2003, I got some info in regards to Patching Material and how to, by a feller named Dutch Schoultz AKA Harold V. Schoultz. It's where you use pillow ticking, water, along with water soluble oil, and lay your strips out to dry on a flat surface to dry. The trick is to go with 2 parts of water, with 1 part of water soluble oil on up to 10/1. stir until you get the moose milk solution and cut the pillow ticking into 2" strips submerge in the solution, and set on a flat surface to dry. Once dry roll up the strips and place in a 35 mm film case to preserve. you might want to mark the end of the container exactly what you made, for example 10/1, 2/1, etc.once you've shot some of these loads to determine you're most accurate load, stick with it and watch your groups shrink. Mine for the .54 Hawkins is 4/1, for the .32 flinter it is 6/1, for my .45 Kentucky rifle it is 5/1, my newly built 50 flinter I haven't figured that out yet. Of course there are a lot of other variables, but ya might try this out. :cool:
     
  2. arcticap

    arcticap Member

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    Is Ballistol recommended or mentioned as the preferred water soluble oil or is that left up to choice?
    I believe that most folks use Ballistol for lubing patches using that method.
     
  3. Pancho

    Pancho Member

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    I prefer Ballistol because it does everything. Including leather and wood care.
     
  4. alsaqr

    alsaqr Member

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    i use Goop hand cleaner as a patch lube. It works great.
     
  5. the Black Spot

    the Black Spot Member

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    I use linen I get from goodwill clothes section for patch matrerial. patch lube I,use mink tallow from track of the,wolf
     
  6. Dave Markowitz

    Dave Markowitz Member

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    I use pillow ticking and Track of the Wolf's mink oil lube.
     
  7. Geordie

    Geordie Member

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    patches

    I use linen scraps from the sewing room and lube with a 50-50 mix of olive oil and bees wax.
     
  8. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    articap, I use "Stalube" soluble oil, you can get it at any machine shop, or most automotive stores. It is really inexpensive. The way I measure it is I use a shotglass of soluble oil, to 4 shotglasses of regular tap water, or for my others 1 shotglass of soluble oil to 7 of water etc. I can tell ya from vast experience it does make a major difference in accuracy. It is very important that you stretch the soaked patch strips on a flat surface in order to let them dry completely so the oil will be evenly distributed. Myself, I shot several 3 shot groups starting out at 2/1 up to 9/1 and marked each target. Naturally I weighed the round balls to keep them within 1 grain of each other also, I swabbed the bore between each shot with just a dab of water soaked in oil soluble oil, followed by a dry patch. Now mind ya, use a patching material that will give ya a snug fit but nothing so tight that you'll deform the ball. It does take a lot of shooting, but once ya got the the right combination it's smooth sailing.;)
     
  9. Cosmoline

    Cosmoline Member

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    I use the silk from a gentlewoman's underthings. I hear it gives an extra fifty yards.*

    Seriously, I ordered three different thicknesses in bulk from Track and just cut out what I need depending on the ball/muzzle fit. Should be as tight as can be loaded. Lube is oil/beeswax mix. Ballistol gives me an instant rash, so I stay well away from it.

    *Because that's just how far you'll get booted if said gentlewoman finds out you've cut up her silken underthings.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2012
  10. Plastikosmd

    Plastikosmd Member

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    I use teflon coated patches
     
  11. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    Unless they changed the ingredients in Ballistol, that stuf smells like dirty socks, I tried that once or twice and my little lady about left me. Somebody tell me did they clean the odor up in the last 10 years or so?!:scrutiny:
     
  12. TomADC

    TomADC Member

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    I went to the local yardage store with a pair of calipers and bought a yard of irish linen, I use bore butter to lube.
     
  13. Shyoldman

    Shyoldman Member

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    When I am hunting I use spit patch. :)
     
  14. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    My possibles bag now, allways carries a 35mm container carrying my water soluble oil patching. But whatever ya all feel comfortable with. I reckon the old frontiersmen used nothing but good ole saliva.:D
     
  15. arcticap

    arcticap Member

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    Thanks for the info. loose noose.
    There have been discussions here about moose milk before. I checked with NAPA and they carry Stalube Soluble Oil for about $9.99 per quart. They also sell NAPA Cutting & Grinding Oil which is recommended by many folks for making moose milk. NAPA has it on sale for $4.55 per pint right now [NAPA Part Number: WLD 7651526].
    These soluble cutting oils are basically mineral oil distillates with other ingredients added to help them emulsify with water. I intend to try some out to see how it works as a cleaner/solvent rather than as a patch lube, and compare it to pure mineral oil which doesn't mix with water.

    Here are the 2 product pages at NAPA:

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=WLD7651526_0068896387

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SLRSL2512_0006410058

    Here are their MSDS safety sheets from links on their NAPA product pages:

    https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/773757.pdf

    https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/683560.pdf
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2012
  16. loose noose

    loose noose Member

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    You're more than welcome articap, BTW I've got some good advice from you also, and I thank ya back.:D
     
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