Picking safe loads from many sources

[WayneConrad]

Making my 9mm loads with AA #2 powder and lead bullets gave me very few loads to choose from. Now I'm working up some loads with Unique, and I've got a newbie problem: There are many reference loads to choose from, and they vary widely.

Here are all the reference loads I have for 9mm Luger with and Unique and bullets close to the L-FP 122 I'll be using:

Lyman 46th: L-FP 121, 3.7-4.4
Speer 13th: L-RN 125, 4.1-4.5
Hornady (from Loadbooks): L-RN 124: 4.0-5.0
Lyman (from Loadbooks): L-FP 121, 3.7-4.4
RCBS (from Loadbooks): L-FP 124, 4.7-5.2
Alliant (from Loadbooks): L 125, 6.0
alliantpowder.com: L 125, 5.5

Starting loads vary from 3.7 to 4.1, and max loads vary from 4.4 to an alarming 6.0. What weights of powder would you pick for your workup loads?

 

[Stinger]

You already know the answer.

Start with the lowest and work your way up.

Regards,

Stinger

 

[WayneConrad]

Stinger, You're right, of course. I'll be starting with 3.7, the lowest starting load of any of the references I have, and stopping either when I hit max or when I see signs of overpressure. But which of those maximums would you pick when you are making up your test loads to take to the range? The most conservative one? One in the middle? One from the source you trust most (and which one)?

 

[Jim Watson]

Lyman shows the lowest starting loads of anybody in the business and I seldom go that low. But in this case, if the bullet you are using is the little 122 grain flatpoint that seats rather deep in the case, I think you would be safest to start with their 3.7 grains.
What to work up to? Well, let's see, now.
Are you going bear hunting?
Are you shooting IDPA or IPSC competition where a power factor of 125 (1025 fps) is required?
If so, you gotta have a chronograph.
If not, just work up - I'd go in 0.2 grain steps - until you have reliable function of the gun. Ought to get there by 5 grains.

 

[Major Beer]

buy a chrony

i am a newb to reloading like yourself - a chronograph is an essential tool my friend. follow the advice of starting low, and working up, learn to read brass. flat out - read your manuals - follow them. a lot of great advice out hear in THR - but study those volumes first IMHO.

i thought i could load a few pistol rounds and jump to rifle - wrong - get a feel for your tools and the process, have some safe fun. reloading turned out to be more than i expected - but i still love it - i hope it goes the same for you.

my 3 cents

 

[wolf_from_wv]

I use Unique powder. I've been using 5.5g for 115 grain. About 5g to 5.5g for 125g RN lead and 4.2 for 147g RNFP. BUT, I worked those up in my pistol and rifle which are +P+ rated... No flattened or deformed primers or anything else I can see...

What I thought alarming was the 7 grain 115 grain hollow point load in a book... The guy who owns the book said he used 7 grains of Unique and 158g wadcutters in .357 Magnum.

 

[Bullet]

Picking safe loads from many sources

I thought I might add this. You might want to check the OAL for the loads listed. There probably are differences in the OAL’s for the different bullets, which could effect pressures. Another reason to start low and work up.

 

[wolf_from_wv]

There are different OAL for each bullet.

And, it's not a matter of "could affect pressure", it's a matter of how drastically it affects pressure.

From a Speer reloading manual (older one):

"but more important, loads that produced 28,000 cup went to 62,000 when bullets were purposely seated .030" deeper!"

 

[Ol` Joe]

Seating depth isn`t the only factor in the load variations. The bullet used in each is also different, not only in wgt, but if you could check the alloy is likely not the same between any of them. Nor is any other component.
The manual from A-Square, "Any Shot You Want" shows that the lab found with a 308 changing just the brand of 180gr bullet, (from Nosler, Hornady and Sierra) with all else being exactly the same (brands, lot#`s ect) pressure varied by 6,100psi, changeing a primer brand showed 12,800 psi, and cases 5,000. True, these are all the worst cases, but how do we know if our changes will give differences on the small or high side?
The data from the load books is taken from old out dated manuals by Lyman, Speer, Seirra, ect and in a lot of cases will mirror the data in the present day manuals if they haven`t bothered to reshoot it. The data is only true with the exact componts used and any variation changes the data you`ll find. This is why it`s rare when two books list the same data and we are told to start low and work up. The manuals data is a guide line only and not cut in stone. They should be safe loads, but nowhere in the books does it say they are guarenteed.
That said for the L-FP121 gr the poster is asking about I`d try the Lyman load for the 122 L-FP gr as it`s the closest match. Watch pressure and work up slow, things happen fast with a 9mm when changes are made.

 

[Ky Larry]

Since you plan on using lead bullets, I'm assuming these are for target shooting and plinking. I would start with a Light load and work my way up in .2 grain increments.Check for pressure signs as you approch the max listed load. When you find the load that shoots best (accuracy and reliability), stop.
I have found the best loads are usually well below max velocity. Never go over the max listed load. Remember, you are loading for accuracy and reliability. Who cares how fast a bullet travels if you can't hit anything with it or if it won't function in your gun.

 

[WayneConrad]

Bullet and wolf_from_wv, you're right, there are different OAL's listed for each load, from 1.090" to 1.150". Now that I look, that explains some of the differences between the loads. Those loads with shorter OAL tend to have less powder in them.

Ol' Joe, thanks for the insight about Loadbooks. Ok, I'll use the Lyman load and work up in 0.2 grain increments.

Thank you, everyone, for helping me to not blow my fool head off.