Pictures of "gongs?"

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colinsky

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I keep reading about you guys hitting "gongs" at long ranges. I want to make one to take to the range, and I bought a 1/2" chunk of steel 10" x 18". But how do I mount it? Any pictures available?
 
The gongs I've purchased have had a couple links of chain welded to the top edge. Whenever I take my gongs to the range I always take a couple of 6 foot lengths of chain and some caribiners (snap hooks) to suspend them from the posts of the target frames. The caribiners allow me to connect between the gong and the extra chain, and to shorten up the chain if I need to.

Don't bother with aluminum caribiners, get steel ones. The force of the bullet hitting the gong will straighten out aluminum caribiners.

By the way, if your steel is soft expect rifle rounds to burn right through! Don't use any FMJ ammo, and don't shoot gongs with a rifle at ranges closer than 100 yards.

Have fun!
 
I'm only going to shoot .357s at the gong, not rifles. I guess I'll find out how soft/hard the steel is.

The range where I shoot in Santa Barbara has no posts, no target frames. It's an open field in the mountains.

My plan right now is to make some kind of frame out of 2" PVC pipe.
 
Steel plates

10" x 10" by 1/2" steel plates with a 1/4" hole drilled in the top corners.
Hung with 550cord from 2x4 sawhorses made with cheep brackets ond 10' 2x4 cut in 1/2.

Cheap and you can take them down and put them up fast . The ends fold and the top board is removable for transport!!

Winters
 
The first couple of gongs I made I used chain but found that even one hit on the chain and I was dragging it to the shop(maybe you guys are better shots). The last one is 1"thick 7" in dia. steel plate hung from 1" ID pipe by a piece of .375"x1.5" flat welded on the narrow edge to present only .375" to the bullet. The top is welded to a piece of tubing that goes around the pipe to allow the gong to swing. The legs are .5" rebar in an inverted v that stick into the ground. I made the legs rigid but they could be made to fold if transport is necessary. Mine is pretty permanent 100 yds from my back door. Mine is used mostly for rifle but the design would be the same for pistol except I would probably lengthen the legs. .5" thick works ok for most pistol rounds. Thicker would be better.

Winters design looks good for ease of transport. Wood frames can take a lot of hits without serious damage. I have used them in the past for more long range practice(again, maybe you guys are better shots than me).

PVC will probably only stand one hit. But it would be fun to shoot up.:neener:

FMJ bullets will do serious damage to mild steel plate. We have been using 8mm and 7.62x54R and the 1" will dimple out about .25 every hit. .5" plate is usually perforated. Lighter plate will be perforated.
 
Somehow I'm missing the point

So, what's wrong with dimpling your "gong", or even punching a hole through it? That seems kinda cool, to me. Pow!
Clearly, you'll end up with a swiss cheese "gong" after a while. I suppose if it got too "holey", one would just replace it.
How expensive can a piece of boiler plate be?
 
Dimpled or pitted plates are more likely to bounce splatter back, and they will wear out quicker.

Unless you enjoy the metal work you may be better off purchasing steel targets. I have never seen a homebuilt rig perform as well or last as long as the purpose built ones. Typically the steel used by the commericial makers is a more appropriate grade and hardness. The welds are also a critical issue and need to be done right.
 
I've fired at 1 inch thick soft steel gongs at 50 yards with my 8mm Mauser and military surplus FMJ . Melted a quarter size all the way through and I do mean melted. The wall of that hole was smooth. Very impressive.
 
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