Pietta Navy barrel steel pretty soft?

[1KPerDay]

I shot my .36 navy for the second time the past weekend... Wedge is VERY tight and I had to use some sturdy brass punches to get it out. Actually dinged up the steel around the wedge opening which surprised me. Shot great, though I prefer the noise and thump of the .44s.

I have read that the Italian replicas may have softer steel than they should at times; is the barrel known as one of those parts or is it mostly cylinders?

 

[Tommygunn]

I think if your brass punch hits the side of any BP gun it's gonna leave a mark.

Try a plastic nosed hammer, or a small piece of wood against the wedge.

 

[dickydalton]

Sorry

 

[Panzerschwein]

A wood wedge or rubber gunsmithing hammer would have been best. I'm guilty of dinging my wedges too!

 

[mr wack]

Me too, now I use a little nylon one side and brass other side hammer,

My 1851 just needs thumb pressure,, I like that

 

[44 Dave]

A little "whack" is good but if the arbor slot is smoothed the wedge should just tighten up with a tap. The arbor should bottom out in the barrel and wedge tighten with the proper cylinder gap.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Yap, you can "whack" um pretty good with a plastic ended hammer. That's what I use in the shop and it leaves no marks.

The only thing wrong with "thumb pressure" is you're not putting enough force into the wedge to "pre load" the two assemblies. Of course, if the arbor isn't bottoming out in the arbor hole, it's a moot point. The Colts instructions start with " tap the wedge out . . . ". Re-assembly is " reverse order" which would mean "tap the wedge in " as the last step. The bottoming out of the arbor is very important for the open top revolvers to function as designed. The transmission of energy throughout the revolver as a whole, rather than two assemblies held loosely together is what will make your "modern" open top last as long as the 1st gens.!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[mr wack]

I think I'm not digging thumb pressure anymore .
So a slight tap in and a slight tap out is the way to go as far as the wedge is concerned..?.
I can dig that...
Good info Mr Mike,, Thanks.

 

[midland man]

I use my pocket knife the end of it out in the field to tap slightly in and out so I can change cylinders on the fly so mike will this be fine?

 

[1KPerDay]

Tried the nylon hammer, tried the brass hammer. wouldn't budge.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Hit it Alice!!!!! (It'll get easier)


Mr.wack, midland man,
If the arbor has been addressed ( meaning you can't lock the cyl up by pushing the wedge in too far/tight), I'd smack it "pretty good" (more than a tap) to ensure a good transmission of force and that the wedge won't work loose while shooting.
Of course, first things first . . .

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[mr wack]

Alright Mike just hit my 51 wedge " pretty good " and no lock up and will need to be persuaded to come out...
My thumb is not a wedge pusher anymore.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Excellent!!


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[Jim K]

When I was working on percussion revolvers, I used to use a crab mallet to tap out the wedge. That usually worked by itsself; if not, a hammer on the mallet head worked.

No, the barrels aren't soft. Such dents are common on guns made by that Colt fellow.

Jim

 

[dickydalton]

Half of a spring type clothes pin works good for wedges and seating caps. You can rap the clothes pin with a rock if you have to on the wedge.