Pin lock up on S&W revolver

[Diamondback]

I have a S&W model 10-5.....and the pin just below the barrel where it locks-up has drifted forward. ( see photo below ).The revolver locks up fine, but I'm not sure how this happened and what is the fix. Any help, comments and suggestions would be gratefully accepted. thanks in advance for your help.



- regards

 

[gb6491]

If you are talking about what appears in the photo to be a pin directly below the muzzle, that is the end of the spring loaded locking bolt for the ejector rod.
Does it retract when the cylinder is open? If not, you may have a broken/damaged/dirty spring, locking bolt or retaining pin. If it retracts, check that the ejector rod is tight and that end of it is free of debris or damage.
Edit: It's also possible that everything is working fine and that end of the locking bolt is just a little long.
Regards,
Greg

 

[rcmodel]

Well, it can't be locking up just fine, or the end of the locking bolt wouldn't be sticking out the front.
It's supposed to pop back inside the ejector rod housing when the cylinder is closed.

Does it pop back in at the front when you open the cylinder?

If not, it is either full of dried oil & crud, or the spring has given out.

Squirt some powder solvent in it and work it in & out and see if it frees up.

rc

 

[Oro]

it is either full of dried oil & crud, or the spring has given out.

Squirt some powder solvent in it and work it in & out and see if it frees up.

99.5% of all of these instances are this reason - overlubed and tacky residue, or dirty. That gun looks like it has some carry time on it, so probably both in this case.

 

[GodGuns&Guitars]

Make sure the ejector rod is screwed in all the way. If that is not it, then I'd have to concer with the above posters.

Nice flowers...............

 

[Diamondback]

Thanks for the quick replies gentleman. It does not it pop back in at the front when I open the cylinder, but when I push on the spring loaded locking bolt from the inside it moves forward. The spring seem to be working. The end does move forward when I push on the cylinder latch.

I just looked at a S&W 19-4 I also own and I notice the end of the spring loaded locking bolt also sticks out when in lock-up. That revolver hasn't been fired much at all. Curious ? Is this common to S&W revolvers ?

- regards

 

[rcmodel]

They normally don't stick out that far until the thumb-latch is pushed foreword.

As long as it goes inside the the ejector rod housing a little ways when closed it is probably O.K.

rc

 

[Oyeboten]

Are the Thumb piece, and with it, the other Cylinder-release pieces returning all the way to the rear?


Or is it only the very 'end' Barrel-Lug Rod which is not returning to place?

 

[Diamondback]

Are the Thumb piece, and with it, the other Cylinder-release pieces returning all the way to the rear?


Or is it only the very 'end' Barrel-Lug Rod which is not returning to place?

It's just the "end" Barrel-Lug Rod that won't fully retract ...pushing forward on the cylinder-release latch will push the barrel-lug rod out, but that rod will not retract any further than shown in the photo when the cylinder is closed. A portion of that rod continues to stick out. No amount of "careful" pressure will move it forward nor does working it with a solvent help.

By the way.....thank you for helping me to speak "revolver-ese". I'm learning the language.

- regards

 

[rcmodel]

It is called the Locking bolt!

The Center Pin is what pushes it out of engagement with the Ejector Rod.

rc

 

[Oyeboten]

Thanks RCModel,



I have the nomenlature schematic, but, I did not seek it out to refer to it.


Diamondback,



Well...then it does sound like a problem internal to under-Barrel, end, Locking Bolt...possibly a failed-binding Coil Spring, or, debris of some kind prevening it from moving freely and returning.

You could try, with Cylinder open, try working it back and forth using a small piece of Wood, and Oiling it as you go...seeing if it will clear and move freely again, but, if it will not go back 'in' at all, it's probably a broken Coil Spring inside.



An experiened Gunsmith should be able to drive out the tiny retaining Pin, and, clean, inspect and if need be, replace the tiny Coil Spring, remove any burrs or galling or whatever, and re-assemble, for it to work properly again...and it should not cost much if he's a reasonable fellow.

 

[Diamondback]

Thanks RCModel,



I have the nomenlature schematic, but, I did not seek it out to refer to it.


Diamondback,



Well...then it does sound like a problem internal to under-Barrel, end, Locking Bolt...possibly a failed-binding Coil Spring, or, debris of some kind prevening it from moving freely and returning.

You could try, with Cylinder open, try working it back and forth using a small piece of Wood, and Oiling it as you go...seeing if it will clear and move freely again, but, if it will not go back 'in' at all, it's probably a broken Coil Spring inside.



An experienced Gunsmith should be able to drive out the tiny retaining Pin, and, clean, inspect and if need be, replace the tiny Coil Spring, remove any burrs or galling or whatever, and re-assemble, for it to work properly again...and it should not cost much if he's a reasonable fellow.

My thanks to RC too !

It's not budging...no way, no how......so I think you're spot on with the spring diagnosis.

Any one recommend a reputable gunsmith in the Seattle area....or shoul I call S&W and see what they can do ?

Thanks again for everyone's help with this. "The High Road" is full of helpful folks !

- regards

 

[Oro]

A number of guys I know could help or I could. Where in the area are you? I will let you know who is closest. You can pm me or email me if you would like. There is no need for the expense to send it to S&W.