Pistol smiffin' questions (frame prep)

[MattTheHat]

I've got a couple of cosmetically challenged pistol frames I need to clean up. One is on an AMT Backup 380, the other is an Essex 1911 frame. Both are some flavor of stainless.

For lack of a better term, both have rough areas in the curved areas of the frames, in particular around the trigger guards. I don't know if the frames are cast or what, but what I'm describing looks like rough areas from the casting process. When the frame was flattened, those rough areas are ground down smooth on the vast majority of the frame.

Some of those areas I can clean up with emory paper. Some of the larger ones I can clean up with a really fine file. But in the really tight areas, even my needle files aren't narrow enough to get the job done.

What's a guy to do?

With extra fine media, the bead blaster doesn't remove the little pits, it just makes them a bit shinier. Would a coarser grade media do anything to help? I'm guessing that if it did, I would likely mess up the surrounding surfaces that already look okay.

I was wondering if a scraper might help. Like what's used to hand scrape machine ways.

Any input?

After a couple of attempts at this, it appears to me that these areas really need to be addressed first, as any harm done to the flatter surface could then be cleaned up as a least step while flattening the sides of the frame.

-Matt

 

[MattTheHat]

Here's a REALLY minor example of the type of thing I'm trying to get rid of. In this case, it would be easy to remove, but it's an example of the kind of casting roughness I'm trying to clean up.

-Matt

 

[Oyeboten]

Hi MTH,



Looks cast...but either way...


Dremmel with 'Stones' would do for places a File can not reach...these abrasive Stone bits come in many shapes and sizes...to be followed by tiny abrasive Felt or Rubber 'burrs' or as may be.

...and, of course, a steady hand.

 

[MattTheHat]

I had a nasty run in with a Dremel and a Delta Elite. Plus, that surface is concave, so it wasn't a really good example. All the surfaces I'm trying to clean up are convex.

I'm hoping for something powered by elbow grease.


-Matt

 

[rcmodel]

If your Tool don't fit, make one that does.

Belt sander shaped pop-cycle sticks, meat skewer sticks, small dowel rods, etc, and black emery paper & oil can go where no man has gone before.

rc

 

[RogersPrecision]

I like to use wood dowels of various diameters and a piece of black rubber bungee strap.
1" wide abrasive rolls. Usually start with 100 grit, finish with 240 grit.
Blast with a glass bead/aluminum oxide mix available from Graingers.

 

[MattTheHat]

Sounds like I need to raid the freezer for popsicles.

I'd thought of wooden dowels (a 1/4" drive deep well socket set works too), nut hadn't thought about the bungee cord!


-Matt

 

[Jim K]

Yes, those frames are cast, but areas like that may well have been machined, and you are looking at tool marks. Unlike MIM, normal casting is not "ready to go" from the mould. The castings always are cleaned up by machine work, just as are forgings. (That is why makers can claim their cast frames and slides are "machined" - they are.)

Frankly, that kind of thing doesn't much bother me, but the best and quickest cleanup can be done with a Dremel tool. But note carefully: the best and quickest way to really mess up the gun is also with a Dremel tool. If you don't know how to use one, and don't want to practice before working on a nice gun, leave the marks alone.

If you are willing to use a lot of that elbow grease, get a set of riffler files and some emery paper starting at about 250-400 grit.

Jim

 

[Canuck-IL]

Chopsticks are handy - 1 squared end and one round ... with some 400 grit and a thin oil.
/Bryan

 

[MattTheHat]

Ooh, I like the chop sticks idea!


-Matt

 

[mnrivrat]

Don't forget about those disposable finger nail files . Sorta like a popcycle stick with the grit attached. You can cut them to different shapes with a sissors.