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Plated bullets vs. fmj

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Josephnagy1

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Nov 24, 2011
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Can anyone tell me the difference between plated and fmj and the benefits of either or lack of. I have been using fmj for awhile now
 
FMJ are more expensive, yet can be driven to higher speeds. copper plated have a thin copper plating with a softer lead core. You are supposed to load copper plated midway between lead hardcast and FMJ data. if you push the copper plated too hard, it can shed its thin jacket. however I have no problems pushing 125gr copper plated 357's out at near max load data.
 
Reefinmike is mostly right on.
Some plated bullets can be driven to 38 super speeds (1400+ FPS). Berry's make some "TP" (Thick plating) bullets that can be loaded to max loads +.

The plated bullets are usually softer, so taper crimps on straight-wall pistol cartridges need to set to just remove the belling so the bullet won't be damaged.

Realize that the Speer Gold Dot hollow point bullet (1300fps in 9mm) is a plated pistol bullet.
 
You are supposed to load copper plated midway between lead hardcast and FMJ data. if you push the copper plated too hard, it can shed its thin jacket.

I've had this experience in a magnum revolver, where the plating all wound up in the forcing cone. Not pretty. They should be OK in most autoloading pistols and moderate revolver loads.
 
Another difference is that plated bullets fully encapsulate the lead, whereas a jacketed bullet has exposed lead either at the fore or aft end. Some ranges require fully encapsulated bullets, or you may want that feature for yourself if you are already having health issues and don't wish to compound your troubles.
 
If you are asking about .45 ACP, any 230 Gr RN plated bullet out there can take anything the .45 ACP can dish out.

The same is 99% true for 9MM as well, and the Berrys HBRN-TP plated bullets can certainly take anything the 9MM can dish out.

I haven't pushed any .40's hard yet. Well, not real hard.

Autos are easier on plated bullets than revolvers, simply because the bullets do not have to traverse throats/forcing cones.
 
I think it is important to mention that not all plated bullets are created equal. Some companies use thicker plating than others. Berry's and Ranier have the thinnest plating out there and they recommend lower data for that reason. Powerbond and Xtreme have some of the thickest plating out there just under Speer TMJ. My experience has shown that Speer TMJ is pretty much a jacketed bullet. Xtreme and Powerbond should be able to take anything you can dish out velocity wise but some revolvers will still shave them at the forcing cone.
 
I've only used Berry's plated bullets in 9mm and 38Super but was not impressed. Yes, they are a little less expensive than jacketed bullets, but are more "fiddley" to load (gotta watch your FPS limits, can't crimp too much or damage the plating), etc.

Most importantly to me, I found them to be less accurate than either jacketed or even good cast bullets in my case. Some guys swear by 'em; YMMV.
 
I find them just as easy to load as lead, jacketed, or moly plated bullets. In autos the proper crimp cannot damage them. In revolvers a taper crimp is better than a roll crimp (where you have to be careful), as it is so much easier on the plating, and as longdayjake posted, some have a thicker plating than others.
 
I've been using Berrys 200 gr hp in my .45 acp. Taper crimp and I've used 6gr of Unique and had no issues although 5.5gr is the most accurate. Proper bell and crimp.

Also use .40 and 9mm from Berrys.
 
Full metal jacketed bullets are a cut and shaped copper jacket, with a pressure swaged lead core, which is occasionally bonded- but not often.

Plated bullets are a cast lead bullet, electroplated with a thin copper veneer used to prevent leading from an otherwise soft lead bullet when shot at standard (jacketed or near jacketed) velocities.
 
This is the first time I have heard of a plated bullet being cast in the core. In fact, I have seen how the cores are made and they are not cast. They are made the same way a core for a jacketed bullet is made.
 
Yep, a lot of companies claim that their plated bullets are double struck. Double struck means they are swaged as a core and then they get swaged again after they are plated.
 
I bought a case of .45acp some years ago They seemed just fine for a couple of years . Then when I was shooting the last couple of boxes I started to have a lot of misses and found big chunks of jacket/plating in front of the fireing line. even though the ammo had been stored properly , the bullets were starting to flake apart . I now prefer jacketed bullets.
 
Interesting. I have plated bullets that are much older than that and shooting fine in 9MM, .40, & .45. I don't see how plating can "go bad" after a time. Perhaps it was just coincidence you shot some bad ones last.

What brand?
 
If the bullets did not show any signs of corrosion, i would have to say they were not made properly and/or the plating was damaged in reloading.

Without some outside influence, metals have a very loooooooooong shelf life.
 
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