Please tell me everything you can about this knife

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1KPerDay

1KPerDay

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My dad bought this at a gun show in SLC about 30 years ago or so. He recently passed away and I'd like to know anything I can about this knife, care, etc. It isn't rusted but the "damascus" (I know it's not really damascus) has dulled a bit. Any tips to keeping the contrast sharp, maker, value, etc. would be helpful. Thanks!


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Today "Damascus" just means that is made by folding two different varieties of steel into each other. Grades and properties vary from maker to maker. But there are knife snobs out there who believe the term should only be used to describe the original formulation developed in the middle east hundreds of years ago. The exact process seems to be unknown and may even be somewhat mythological.
 
The only way I know to make it "stand out" more is to re-etch it in acid, which is how the maker did it. It's real, but when you grind it it looks like any other steel until you etch it. The longer the soak in acid the deeper the lines.
 
Today "Damascus" just means that is made by folding two different varieties of steel into each other. Grades and properties vary from maker to maker.But there are knife snobs out there who believe the term should only be used to describe the original formulation developed in the middle east hundreds of years ago. The exact process seems to be unknown and may even be somewhat mythological.
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There's nothing mythological about it, and it's no longer lost. The process was rediscovered about twenty years ago by John Verhoeven and Al Pendray. An article with details was published by Verhoeven, Pendray, and Dauksch in the peer reviewed journal JOM. Verhoeven, Pendray, and Dauksch distinguish between pattern welded Damascus, as seen in the OP's blade, and Wootz Damascus, which the OP refers to as "real damascus". The full text can be read at http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/9809/verhoeven-9809.html.
 
That is a Steve Brooks knife. He is (was?) a knifemaker based out of Montana, and was still alive as of the last Knives annual I own (2004). That should be enough to get you started on a detailed search, though.
 
Yep, Steve Brooks damascus drop point hunter with desert ironwood(?) made in 1986. Butte, MT knife maker.

I know it's not really damascus
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Curious, why did you think that?

Just clean it with a terry cloth towel and light machine oil and lots of elbow grease (after putting penetrating oil on the blade) until the cloth doesn't come up with any tinge on it. Do not use any chemicals or abrasives. Keep it oiled or wax it and store it out of the sheath.

If it were in perfect condition it might realize $500.
 
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ugaarguy said:
There's nothing mythological about it, and it's no longer lost. The process was rediscovered about twenty years ago by John Verhoeven and Al Pendray. An article with details was published by Verhoeven, Pendray, and Dauksch in the peer reviewed journal JOM. Verhoeven, Pendray, and Dauksch distinguish between pattern welded Damascus, as seen in the OP's blade, and Wootz Damascus, which the OP refers to as "real damascus". The full text can be read at http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/9809/verhoeven-9809.html.
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Fascinating; thank you for the link.

Beautiful knife, OP. Sorry about the loss of your dad.
 
Thanks HSO. A while back I mentioned I like Damascus bladed kershaws and someome jumped down my throat about it being improper nomenclature. I must admit I've found knife guys a lot less welcoming and forgiving to noobs than gun guys generally. The knife hasn't been used... What damage are you seeing? Thanks again.
 
"perfect condition" doesn't equate to damage free. Instead it is never sharpened or used and free of even minor rust. The scuffs on the sheath counts against it, but less than rust or use, even honest use would. I dont see any sign of use or sharpening or even carry. Let's see it carefully cleaned with just cloth and oil.
 
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hso said:
"perfect condition" doesn't equate to damage free. Instead it is never sharpened or used and free of even minor rust. The scuffs on the sheath counts against it, but less than rust or use, even honest use would. I dont see any sign of use or sharpening or even carry. Let's see it carefully cleaned with just cloth and oil.
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Thanks. Is PB blaster an acceptable penetrating oil or should I find something else? I have various gun oils also. I assume I generally want to keep oils away from the areas the wood and blade meet? Or does it not matter.
 
Oil is good for wood.

About the gentlest way to go is mineral oil. Cheap and very gentle. Get it all over the wood.
 
I am not a collector and am not knowledgable about knives. I do know know what I like and I think that is a beautiful knife. Thanks for posting it here.
 
JShirley said:
Oil is good for wood.

About the gentlest way to go is mineral oil. Cheap and very gentle. Get it all over the wood.
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Like the mineral oil for butcher blocks etc?

I'm assuming so, but....

And what about the mineral oil for butcher blocks that contain natural waxes like beeswax or carnuba or other food grade mineral oil mixures?
 
I don't know what the waxes will do to the steel. Probably not hurt it, but might be hard to clean off.
 
Stay away from anything in a spray can or anything with solvents or other "harsh" chemicals. Just stick with light machine oil or pure unscented medical grade mineral oil and a lot of elbow grease. Use a terry cloth rag and not a polishing rag. Do not use any abrasives or chemicals. Mineral oil won't hurt the wood and is a safe approach for the beginner.

OTOH, you could send it back for reconditioning and a new sheath if you're not comfortable or have the time for a few hours oiling and rubbing. I think this is his phone number - Phone: (406) 782-5114
 
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hso said:
Stay away from anything in a spray can or anything with solvents or other "harsh" chemicals. Just stick with light machine oil or pure unscented medical grade mineral oil and a lot of elbow grease. Use a terry cloth rag and not a polishing rag. Do not use any abrasives or chemicals. Mineral oil won't hurt the wood and is a safe approach for the beginner.

OTOH, you could send it back for reconditioning and a new sheath if you're not comfortable or have the time for a few hours oiling and rubbing. I think this is his phone number - Phone: (406) 782-5114
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Thanks again. No, it's not going anywhere and the sheath looks fine to me. I'll get to rubbin'. :)
 
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