Pocket Problems

[Black Chowder]

Hi everyone,

I'm a new forum member. I own a little navy Pocket Pistol and I have two problems:

1.) It shoots high and I want to install a taller front sight. I figure since I don't have a milling machine I'll create a dovetail with a Dremel or file it by hand. Is there anyone making a good tall front sight that would work well with this pistol. I really want to be able to hit what I shoot at without judging the shot. After all, that's what sights are for!

2.) when I cock the pistol, if I cock it with some force, the cylinder will overshoot a bit so the timing is off. Should I file a little hieght off of the hand in order to get the revolver timing corrected? If I gently cock the gun it is fine, I just want a revolver that will not overshot the intended chamber.

Thanks for the help!

 

[taralon]

If you've got a steady hand, you can:

1) Square off the top as it will make the next step easier, and rough up the top edge.

2) Get a piece of steel about the same thickness as the current site. Square off the bottem.

3) With a good eye and a good steady hand, use some high temp silver solder to join the new piece on top of the old sight.

4) Reblue

You really want to figure out though, how much of an increase you really need. You don't want to have to file down the new extended site as this will stress the solder joint.

 

[Black Chowder]

That's why I'm gonna file/dremel in a dove tail, so I won't have to worry about the filing down of the front sight. No reason to use solder with a nice tight fit. Though I guess I could use some JB weld to keep it in place, just to be sure. Besides, I need more info on using silver solder. It's something I've never used before. I imagine it is just as easy as sweating pipes, huh?

I'm surprised nobody has responded on my timing problem. That was my main problem. The front sight thing was mainly for different ideas and different techniques I might want to use. Thanks for the different approach!

 

[Jamie C.]

Your timing problem sounds like a matter of a too-weak bolt spring, to me.

If the gun is locking up properly when it's cocked slowly, but skipping the locking notch when cocked fast, then there's not enough pressure on the bolt.


J.C.

 

[biermkr]

If you plan on doing any other guns you might want to check this out:
http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/wheeler-dovetail-cutting-fixture.html

 

[taralon]

I've never bothered with trying to retime a gun myself. The last time I had a timing issue I took it to a local gunsmith that specializes in work on single shot revolvers (for the CAS/SASS scene) and for $50 got a trigger job, had it retimed, and had some spring work done on it.

I don't mind fiddling with some things, but a timing issue I'd rather just pay to get fixed.

Sweating pipes together is kinda like soldering, but there's some tricks to it, and using a torch isn't often done. I've increased the height of a couple blades, but it is sometimes tricky work, especially getting the blade on there perfectly straight.

 

[Cincinnati Slim]

Timing and sight

Howdy,

I'd have to second the opinion regards the trigger/bolt spring. Before you start messing with the hand or bolt try replacing the spring.
They were a frequently replaced item back in the 19th century and still are today. Dixie, VTI, Brownell's all should have 'em. Get a couple, they are cheap and spares are good to have around.

While you are at it order a front sight for a Uberti 1858 Remington. Use the hole the old sight was mounted in as a position/depth guide for the dovetail cut. DGW has 'em for less than five bucks. They are the right size for a pistol and are usually a little too tall. You just file 'em down until POI=POA. Since they are dovetail mounted you can drift 'em left/right to correct for windage to. They work great to replace the little "acorn" bead sight on Colts.

Wheeler Engineering makes a nice dovetail cutting kit/fixture which makes the process pretty painless. I think Midway and Brownells both offer it.

Happy Trails

Cincinnati Slim

 

[mec]

The bolt spring would be a quick fix if that's the problem. Sometimes, new guns take a bit of shooting to settle in and the rough action contributes to really fast cocking. that might contriubute to throw by as will a barrel that is too tight and coming into contact with the cylinder. The wedge could be in too far causing this. These things are particularly noticeable with the pocket model frame size.

from the sticky:
The primary task is to get the overall unit to the same length as the one the factory has already fitted to your gun. I also attempt to copy the shape of the factory part without really knowing how important that might be. I found that outlining the already shaped part helps in getting close to the right amount of metal removal. It is a rough guage of course since the outline is bigger than the original part.

After disassembly of barrel, cylinder and grip portions, the hammer and hand can be removed without taking out the trigger and bolt. This is useful since a good bit of trial and error is necessary.

Partially reassembling the revolver- barrel and cylinder in place, you know you are getting close to the right fit when the cylinder no longer rotates past the locking notch. At this point, things are probably still not right as the hammer will not come back far enough to fully cock the revolver when the cylinder is in place

The job is finished when the cylinder rotates to full engagement and the hammer sear will engage the trigger and remain at full cock.

spare hands come over-long to allow fitting.
the locking bolt should drop into the lead on the cylinder notch with the hammer at full cock.The length of the leg that engages the hammer cam governs this.

 

[Black Chowder]

Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I'll tell you how it went when I get around to installing the new front sight. by the way, I was also thinking of using the 58' front sight but thought it might be too large.