Polishing a stainless 686

[sixshooterfan]

Is this something that an amateur can do? My friend's father owns a jewelry repair shop with buffing wheels and compounds and whatnot if those would come in handy. Or should I use a t-shirt and a minimally aggressive compound?

I also want the trigger and hammer to look shiny, or at least not dark like they do from the factory (case hardened?). What's the best option for this?

Thanks guys!

 

[Two Cold Soakers]

All I can say is stay away from any mechanical buffing wheels until you can accurately predict the results.

My wife is a jeweler. I own guns. I've been there.

Do it by hand until you know EXACTLY what's going to happen.

 

[Old Guard Dog]

Mechanical polishing

I used to be a jeweler and I'm sure your jeweler friend has catalogues like Gesswein for different wheels and compounds, for metals other than the precious stuff he polishes. A tapered spindle that will go on any 1/2" shaft motor is an inexpensive way to get started. The big problem is the dust and dirt you will create, allthough you can build a simple dust hood and attach a shop vac. Mechanical buffing with the right compounds saves a LOT of time, but as was said before, be careful. Another source is Grizzley for buffers and compounds.

 

[Riss]

The only trouble with doing that to the hammer and trigger is that the case color is actually a very thin layer of really hard material that actually keeps it all from rusting. You can polish it off with red rouge, or white compound if you take care. Its a little more aggressive. Just need to keep it oiled more often if you take that surface off. BTW I would only take it off of the visible areas. I would not take it off completely from the internal surfaces as it also keeps them from wearing too quickly.

 

[glockman19]

Check out the 686 club thread. I think mothers and a couple of weeks of hand polishing get's them looking like they are nickle plated.

I did use a dremmel with jewelers buff & polishing compound on the trigger of my 642, came out real nice.

 

[nitetrane98]

There is nothing magical about a buffing wheel that will destroy your guns unless you try to do things with it that it was not intended to do.
If you have hazing and swirl marks on your stainless these can easily be polished out with green compound and a flannel buffing wheel.
Jewelers tools and compounds like jewelers rouge have little or no cutting action. Use the right compound and wheel for the job and you'll get better results. There is simply no comparison between a buffing wheel shine and one done by hand. Heat from friction is required to do the job. It's all a matter of what you call shiny.
Here's a very good tutorial.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm
Be careful what you wish for. A mirror polish job is a beautiful thing that requires careful handling. Every little mar stands out like a sore thumb. Wiping with a dirty rag, and by dirty I simply mean dusty, will leave microscopic scratches that will accumulate to dull the shine.

 

[krs]

Be careful what you wish for. A mirror polish job is a beautiful thing that requires careful handling. Every little mar stands out like a sore thumb. Wiping with a dirty rag, and by dirty I simply mean dusty, will leave microscopic scratches that will accumulate to dull the shine.

Big 10-4 on this, and for me.....never again. SS is some pretty soft stuff.

 

[moooose102]

the only real problem that you will encounter is all the crud that WILL end up in the mechanicals. there is no way to do this without getting the polish in there. so polishing the revolver will have to result in a thourough dimantling and cleaning of the mechanicals.

 

[Big44mag]

You should check an old post...

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=353392&highlight=polish+686

 

[krs]

Moose, if you do it by hand with Mother's mag polish there's no or not much that needs to go into the works, but I agree with you that polishing on a buffing wheel probably ought to be done on a completely disassembled pistol.

Buffing wheels and compounding is easier but if you use too harsh a compound it'll round corners that should be sharp and will dish screw holes quickly. Red rouge is usually OK but watch out if using the white that's marked as being for stainless. It takes a well experienced hand to do a fine job with a buffing wheel. Sure can make it glow though.

 

[Frankco]

I have used the green compound from home depot and it works extremely well. I start out with a can of llighter fluid, put a rag tightly around your finger and pour a little lighter fluid on it then rub into the green compound. start with a small area and polish in a circular motion. repeat with an other portion of the rag when the rag turns black. for any scratch removal you can purchase the next courser compound, then follow up with the green. finally wipe down the whole area with a paper towel and a little bit of lighter fluid. Let dry and buff out with a clean cloth.

 

[Trakker]

what happened to blue revolvers? sigh////