Poor Boy's Trigger Job, won't it damage the hammer and sear?

[easyrider604]

Two questions:

1. I have been wanting to do this PBTJ

http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm

to my NM Blackhawk but need to hear from the experts here if the following, which is the first step in the procedure, is safe. To re-phrase, can I damage the hammer and sear by doing this? I do not want to create an irreversible problem should I damage these parts.

The first operation deals with smoothing the mating surfaces of the sear and trigger. What we are trying to do here is what is called "marrying the trigger". It is very simple. After making sure that the gun is unloaded, look and make sure that it is unloaded again. Next, while applying upward pressure with your thumb to the cocked hammer, pull the trigger. You need to apply a good deal of pressure with that thumb. Repeat this step a few times until the trigger pull feels smooth and the gritty feel of the new trigger pull is gone. This removes the microscopic burrs from the surfaces, resulting in a smooth release. Don't over-do it. You want to smooth it, not wear it out.

2. If the PBTJ really works, how good is it compared to a gunsmith job?

Thank you

 

[SimpleIsGood229]

You can mess it up. On the other hand, you can go slow, making sure to polish the parts. If you're not comfortable doing it, get it professionally done.

 

[dfariswheel]

You can damage the hammer or trigger.

People hear about doing this and apply WAY too much force.
I've actually heard of so-called "experts" inserting a screwdriver behind the hammer of a pistol and applying tremendous force.
I've seen some 1911 pistols in which this was done with bent seat pins from the excessive force.

You can get the same benefit by simply shooting 50 to 100 rounds through the gun.
Parts seat or "marry" a lot faster than people think, and there's no real benefit to risking a damaged part when normal use will do it safely and quickly.

 

[nksmfamjp]

If the PBTJ really works, how good is it compared to a gunsmith job?

Really not comparable. A Ruger SA's #1 issue is excessive creep caused by excessive sear/hammer sliding contact. The #2 issue is creep caused by all the other sliding surfaces being rough. The PBTJ doesn't address either directly.

 

[easyrider604]

Thank you for your replies, gentlemen. I will skip the hammer/sear procedure, but will try un-hooking one spring leg.

 

[nksmfamjp]

IME, lower pull weight generally makes creep feel worse. I would leave it alone, or have a real trigger job done. Dry firing a few 100 times is always good. When doing that, I reccomend a faster than normal trigger pull. The idea is to accentuate the fitting with a faster sliding action for more metal forming. Also, training the shooter to squeeze(not yank) faster is a good technique to master. I find slow pullers transition from static to dynamic friction many times when sliding the sear off the hammer. This causes a worse feel than a more rapid and continuous squeeze while pushing the sight at the target center.

 

[Floppy_D]

I will skip the hammer/sear procedure, but will try un-hooking one spring leg.

That alone will probably impress you. I've done the same to a pair of Rugers, and it was all I ever wanted out of a trigger. Dry fire will smooth out any last kinks.

 

[Drail]

Boosting a hammer or lifting a leg of a spring is not a "trigger job". There is absolutely no comparison.

 

[chriske]

Most revolvers I've owned smoothed out by getting shot.
A lot.
Sure, that's no "trigger job".
It's trigger fun.

 

[Old Fuff]

Everyone should be aware that if a revolver is returned to Ruger for whatever, they disassemble and inspect it. If the trigger or hammer have been polished(!) they will likely install new parts and charge the gun's owner for them. This is a procedure required by they're attorneys to provide a defense against lawsuits.

On the other hand, if you unhook a leg on the spring it and be hooked up again, or if you install a lighter aftermarket spring(s) the original ones can always be switched back.

Other firearms companies often have similar policies.

 

[goodtime]

The poor boy trigger job, as defined by the website "gunblast.com," is an excellent way to improve the trigger in a new Ruger single action. I'm not discussing other versions of a poor boy trigger job, just the one on gunblast.com. If the directions are followed by a reasonable person, the results are a marked improvement in trigger feel. When conducted in the manner described above, it will not damage the hammer and sear. I have conducted this procedure on several Ruger Blackhawks and Super Blackhawks, with very satisfying results. The procedure should not be construed as a subsitiute for a professional trigger job conducted by a gunsmith, nor is it touted as such by the website. As gunblast explains, it is a quick, easy way of nicely improving the trigger at no cost. That's all. I swear by it.

 

[easyrider604]

Thank you for your replies. I've noted all of them.

1. What is the difference in the end result of a gunsmith's trigger job, and the end result of the PBTJ, if both of them will result in better, improved trigger feel?

2. Is the former a more "durable" job?

Please forgive my questions because in the past, the only DIY trigger job I knew was done on my Colt 1911 Combat Elite (long gone) when my gunsmith/friend replaced the trigger, hammer and sear with a McCormick drop-in matched titanium set. Boy did that work like magic!

 

[MovedWest]

I've heard of the poor man's trigger job in the past, but I cannot recommend it to anyone. Granted it works, but duct tape will also hold the bumper on your car.

I wanted the same thing you're after and here's what I installed:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=160790

For $12 plus shipping (don't forget to round up for the NRA!) I don't think it gets anymore poor man than that. It made a considerable difference in the feel of my super blackhawk and cut my group size considerably.

The hammer spring can be a bit of a job to get in and out, but can be done with persistence. Make sure you wear eye protection - that spring requires some pressure to remove and reinstall.

-MW

 

[goodtime]

Take it from a person who is no expert, but who actually has done the procedure.
The PBTJ is nothing like using duct tape on a car. It is no kind of jherri rig at all. In fact, it does nothing to permanently alter the gun. there are only two parts:

1. The procedure to "marry" the trigger and sear accomplishes the same thing that firing (or dry-firing) thousands of rounds accomplishes. It smooths out the mating surfaces of the hammer and trigger, naturally, by rubbing them together. It does not polish them like a stone or polishing compound would. It just smooths out the trigger, in seconds, to the point where it would be if it were well broken-in from thousands of cycles of the action. Again, directions must be read and followed by a reasonable person with common sense.

2. Unhooking one leg of the trigger return spring simply reduces the resistance of the trigger by half -- without purchasing or installing a foriegn part. The leg of the trigger return spring can be hooked back up at any time if a shooter doesn't like the results.

There you have it, nothing to void the warranty, permanently alter parts, look ugly, or cause complications. If a shooter tries it and still wants a pro trigger job, than he can still get one. If he still wants to try aftermarket springs, he can still do that. And by the way, no, it is not as nice as a professional gunsmith's trigger job.

 

[nksmfamjp]

1. What is the difference in the end result of a gunsmith's trigger job, and the end result of the PBTJ, if both of them will result in better, improved trigger feel?

A professional trigger job results in reduced creep through increased smoothness in ALL sliding surfaces and reduced sear engagement, within safe limits.

It also has reduced, but tunable pull weight through polishing(reduced friction), reduced spring weight (when required) and improved angles (fixtured stoning).

The result is a smooth trigger pull at a specified (or close) weight with minimal (or none) creep and depending on the gun, minimal overtravel and takeup.

A PBTJ only addresses smoothness, slightly, and pull weight by spring modification.

IME, reducing spring weight without polishing, increases felt creep.

This is not gospel, but a reflection of my experience.

 

[easyrider604]

Thank you guys and I really appreciate all your inputs. Ok folks, I performed the PBTJ. The way a reasonable man would, I hope.

It improved the trigger by noticeably reducing pull weight (do not have a trigger pull gauge). The creep is still there but less less gritty so it doesn't bother me much anymore. I did not cut off any hammer spring coils and feel no need for a pro trigger job at this time.

It is nowhere close to a S&W trigger in crispness or lightness, but I was not looking for that anyways.