Poor Man's Parts Cleaning Tank

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roo_ster

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I have used some rather fine parts-washing tanks in the past, but have no room or money for one now.

The other day I was at the hardware store in the paint & solvents aisle. I spied new, empty gallon paint cans (with lids) for sale and then low-odor mineral spirits.

I recalled that the parts washer I used way back was supplied with mineral spirits and decided to try the combo out.

Well, well, well, the gallon paint bucket + LOMS works like a charm. It has been a while since I was able to clean off my pistols this quickly and easily.

If I were to improve the system, I might buy another new empty gallon paint can and some filter paper from, say a small HVAC filter. Then, after use, seal & shake the can to get all the particulates in suspension and pour the LOMS through the filter paper into the empty can.
 
why shake the can.just dump the fluid thru a filter and whats left in the bottom of the can,can be discarded. jwr
 
There's a lengthy discussion about this...

Over at Arfcom, one of the more knowledgeable guys uses a system very similar to this. He has a flat pan, and a wire rack that just fits inside. He mixes up a small amount (a couple of caps full, he says) of CLP into the mineral spirits. The purpose of the CLP is that after the parts have drip dried, the mineral spirits have evaporated, leaving behind just a tiny, film of oil as a protective layer. That oil gets into all the nooks and crannies that you can't reach oiling things the "normal" way. After, you pour the mixture into a wide-mouth glass jar, and just leave it sit. All the particles settle out. The next time you pour it out, you just have to wipe off the inside bottom of the glass jar.

I like this idea, and went searching for components... At our local Wally World, in the baking section, I found this set:

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It's a two-piece meat loaf pan. The inner pan is plenty big enough to soak an AR-15 bolt carrier group or most auto pistol slides, and it has little holes all along the perimeter so the cleaning solution can drain back out after you've scrubbed them all clean. I also bought the 1-qt glass jar - and the total purchase was less than ten bucks, even with our 6.5% sales tax.
 
Plastic jug such as Antifreeze comes in is what I use.


I lay it on its side, and cut out a rectangle.
I don't cut a big as I could still big enough to access parts.
Clean this out real good and leave the cap on.

When I use it, I leave the cap on of course, and when done, I can unscrew the top, and pour through a coffee filter, cloth, or something to filter the solution to use again.

Old clean laundry detergent jugs work fine for used solution.

I use these "trays" when working on cars, or anything, to keep parts together too.
 
make sure the cans are that for oil based products... other wise your going to have probs.
 
Good to know other folks are thinking with their melon instead of their wallet.

I think I might combine several of the ideas:

1. Keep my paint can & lid. I like the positive seal and know LOMS won't dissolve metal.
2. Use sm's idea of the old, side-cut-out anti-freeze jug. The wide(r) work area is attractive, as is the pourability.
3. ceetee's pierced pan for smaller parts.
4. M2Piot's coffee filters.
5. Arfcom guy's CLP additive. I might go with something else, like synthetic motor oil, though. I'll give it some thought.
 
Before I had a house with a garage I did most of mine in a large turkey pan with a tight fitting lid. Also had a baking cooling rack in the bottom of it and a strainer.

It was the ultimate kitchen department parts washer.

I used kerosene as a solvent with a shot of something else....varsol???

Worked great!!! Nothing evaporated, large enough to do small motorcycle parts and brake calipers, etc.
 
What do you do with your solvent "waste?"
in my county, there is a once a year spring "clean up" and they have a hazardous waste collection station there. i save up all my stuff i cant get rid of normally, and take it there. i give them a small donation to help with the costs, and all is well. the enviroment is healthy, my pocket isn't hurt bad, the toxic stuff goes where it should, my garage gets cleaned. it's a win-win-win-win situation!
 
Some people

use three cans: Clean, mildly dirty, filthy.
Parts get firs dunk in filthy can, then mildly dirty, then clean.
When clean solvent gets mildly dirty it is demoted, old mildly gets demoted and filthy gets discarded.
Good luck.
 
It has been a while since I was able to clean off my pistols this quickly and easily

I've been shooting over 50 years and never have I found it necessary to immerse a gun to clean it or its parts in a tank.

An old action full of cosmoline yes, but not a smokless shooter.
 
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