Powder/Bullet Combinations for 357 Mag

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DaBruins

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I'm about to start reloading for my 4" GP100, so I'm looking for some suggestions on a smooth-shooting powder/bullet combination, based on the powders and primers I already have in stock. I have not yet purchased any bullets, but I plan to go with Xtreme or Berry's plated, possibly 158gr SWC, but I'm open to suggestions for a different bullet, but I would prefer not to use lead. The reloads will be used exclusively for recreational target shooting.
For powders, I have: AA#2, AA#5, Titegroup, and HP38. I also have Federal and CCI small pistol primers. I have a few manuals and I familiar with the process of working up loads, so I'm not looking for individual load data, just some ideas on powder/bullet combinations to use as a starting point.

Thanks in advance!
 
Personally, I like X-treme more than Berry's. For target loads in .357 it's hard to beat HP-38. The others will work too; you may find that TG burns hotter than the others so if you are going to put out a lot of volume you will heat up your shootin' iron and it will smoke more with lead.
 
smooth-shooting powder/bullet combination, based on the powders and primers I already have in stock........................AA#2, AA#5, Titegroup, and HP38..
Buy some X-Treme 158 Gr SWCs and load them to modest velocities with W-231 or AA #5. Seat them to the fake cannelure and give them a light to medium taper crimp. Very smooth and accurate.
 
Why in the world would anyone want to load something over maximum when the OP is looking for good suggestions?

Berry's are good for me as I am sure Xtremes are . The only 38/357 bullets from Berry's that I ever used were their 158 Plated RN.A light load of Clays was the powder I used and as I recall they were very accurate. I switched over to hard cast and never looked back. Of the powders you mentioned my choice for a nice shooting target load would be HP38/ W231.IT is an old standby and has never given me poor results.
 
I recently worked up a .357 mag load using Extreme's 158gr plated FP with WSP and 8.5-8.7gr of Accurate #5.
I'm shooting these in a Ruger Security Six and a Rossi lever action. I could not get the bullets to stay put in either firearm with a taper crimp. All of my .357 brass is trimmed to 1.279" I put a little inside chamfer on the cases and roll crimped them, that did it. Extreme's plating is thick, I didn't find any plating in the barrels.
 
I use a lot of W231/HP-38 and that powder will serve you well in this application. You will be able to generate higher velocities with AA#5 with less pressure because it's a slower powder but you really don't want to push those plated bullets too hard anyway. I use mostly CCI primers, those CCI-500 primers you have will work well.
 
I shoot the Xtreme 158gr flat points. I've tried the SWC but prefer the flat points. It's just a personal preference as there is nothing wrong with the SWC. Xtreme recommended that I use Speer's jacketed data with their bullets. You'll want to limit velocity to 1200fps though. I use Universal right now with my loads and Speer's max load comes out in the low 1100fps range from my 6.5" Blackhawk and is pretty accurate if I do my part. Stronger than any 38 Special but less than full magnum. A nice mid-range load.

All of the powders you've got will work. AA#5 should be able to give you a good mid-range load like my Universal loads. The others will give you milder loads in the 38 Special range. Hodgdon's and Western Powder's websites will also have data for your powders to cross reference with your manuals. Use jacketed data with them. No published load data with your powders will exceed the velocity ceiling of 1200fps out of your 4" GP100. My 4" GP100 needs full charges of slow powders to break 1200fps with 158gr bullets. Your powders do not need magnum priming either so you are already set for primers.

Xtreme's plated bullets make excellent plinking and target rounds. For full power loads I use jacketed but for everything else I use Xtremes. I would recommend them over Berry's since Xtremes have a cannelure and heavier plating. Well, not a true cannelure but marks where one would be. I use a light roll crimp with the center of the bullet's "cannelure" seated at the case mouth, enough to hold the bullet but not tear the plating. Works for me.
 
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