Powders for the beginner
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RealGun
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Hodgdon provides load data for 38 Special and Trailboss. I am going to try it as 5.3 gr with 125 gr coated lead TCFP.
ZWCoffindaffer
Member
Another Beginner
I too havent been in the hobby long, and I apologize for any repost as I didnt read all comments.
Regarding the original post, I've heard Unique is suitable for almost any pistol load with desirable results. I tried HS-6 in a few calibers and really liked it at higher end of pressure, but it does burn a little dirty.
Rifle loads, H4831 is a must on my bench. It has proven accurate in everything Ive tried it in so far. Sub 1/2 MOA in my 7mm RemMag. Sub MOA in .243. Sub MOA in .270. Very happy with it. Also like H1000 and H4350. Great results with all of them.
I do really like the extreme line of Hodgdon rifle powders, and Hodgdon powders in general. Their load information is very available. They ave a great website for reference.
I still have a lot to try. Every gun us different and every few tenths of a grain you add or take away make a difference. Its a trial and error hobby. I dont suggest loading huge batches on faith. I usually load 5 each of rifle ammo and 20 each of handgun. Check the groupings and go back to the kitchen to make more or try a new recipe.
Good luck!!
I too havent been in the hobby long, and I apologize for any repost as I didnt read all comments.
Regarding the original post, I've heard Unique is suitable for almost any pistol load with desirable results. I tried HS-6 in a few calibers and really liked it at higher end of pressure, but it does burn a little dirty.
Rifle loads, H4831 is a must on my bench. It has proven accurate in everything Ive tried it in so far. Sub 1/2 MOA in my 7mm RemMag. Sub MOA in .243. Sub MOA in .270. Very happy with it. Also like H1000 and H4350. Great results with all of them.
I do really like the extreme line of Hodgdon rifle powders, and Hodgdon powders in general. Their load information is very available. They ave a great website for reference.
I still have a lot to try. Every gun us different and every few tenths of a grain you add or take away make a difference. Its a trial and error hobby. I dont suggest loading huge batches on faith. I usually load 5 each of rifle ammo and 20 each of handgun. Check the groupings and go back to the kitchen to make more or try a new recipe.
Good luck!!
thomas15
Member
Another poster mentioned a few of my favorites for pistol, IMR 4756 and (Alliant) American Select. Good powders but note that Hodgdon, who markets IMR powders, has discontinued IMR4756 (and IMR 7625 another goodie). I have seen it within the last week but it has been discontinued for a year now and is hard to find generally.
American Select (Alliant) is marketed as a shot gun powder but there is some data out there for pistol. I use it for light 9mm target loads with 115g plated round nose. I haven't seen American Select for two years.
Another powder that is good to have on hand is Hodgdon Clays. It has been lately starting to re-appear again.
I believe another poster mentioned Ram Shot Zip. I personally haven't seen this powder for almost 3 years locally or online. I would like to try some someday.
American Select (Alliant) is marketed as a shot gun powder but there is some data out there for pistol. I use it for light 9mm target loads with 115g plated round nose. I haven't seen American Select for two years.
Another powder that is good to have on hand is Hodgdon Clays. It has been lately starting to re-appear again.
I believe another poster mentioned Ram Shot Zip. I personally haven't seen this powder for almost 3 years locally or online. I would like to try some someday.
out of all the powders on the list, the only one i found at the two LGS I visited today was titegroup, so I grabbed it. I was also able to pick up some 148 Lead DEWC for .38 special.
doing load research now, so far it looks like 2.7 to 3.3 seated in the top cannelure - which looks to be about 1/8 from the top, man the dewc is a deep seating bullet.
d
doing load research now, so far it looks like 2.7 to 3.3 seated in the top cannelure - which looks to be about 1/8 from the top, man the dewc is a deep seating bullet.
d
zxcvbob
Member
Have you ever used Titegroup? In revolver cartridges, a half-charge, normal charge, and double all pretty much look the same. You can pay attention and still miss it.
It might be fine in something like 9mm.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
A double charge of Titegroup in .38 Special looks ok a first glance.
I like Titegroup ok but in .38/.357 the charge is hidden well down in the case.
I have never had a double charge but it happens. It is a lot moire likely to happen with some powders than others, Titegroup is one of these.
I hope Titegroup works out for you.
I like Titegroup ok but in .38/.357 the charge is hidden well down in the case.
I have never had a double charge but it happens. It is a lot moire likely to happen with some powders than others, Titegroup is one of these.
I hope Titegroup works out for you.
Thanks,
No I have never used titegroup. But I will heed the warnings, pay attention, dont get distracted, be sure of my loads.
I am still on the lookout for W231, and unique and will get some if one of the other 2 LGS have it in stock.
Thanks again.
d
No I have never used titegroup. But I will heed the warnings, pay attention, dont get distracted, be sure of my loads.
I am still on the lookout for W231, and unique and will get some if one of the other 2 LGS have it in stock.
Thanks again.
d
Traffer
Member
I am new too. But one thing I have already learned: you need hands on experience when loading and shooting. A lot of personal preference involved. Start with a powder that you know you are going to use for Something. You don't want to end up buying a lot of stuff that just sits on the shelf. But that is just my opinion and I probably have less experience than you. lol
Traffer,
Im pretty wet behind the ears when it comes to reloading, but, I hear ya, and without turning this into a political thread, I am of the opinion that we should be prepared to provide for ourselves if things keep going the way they are and one of those things is being able to build my own bullets.
I asked the question to avoid buying something I would not use one way or the other, and titegroup was one of those works in all handgun type powders, so, while it may not be a universal as universal or unique or W231, I think I can find a way to use it up. And it was the only powder on the short list that the LGS had in stock.
Picking up some small pistol primers later this week, forgot those yesterday, and will put together a few rounds this weekend, hopefully get out to the BLM back forty this weekend to try them also.
Dave
Im pretty wet behind the ears when it comes to reloading, but, I hear ya, and without turning this into a political thread, I am of the opinion that we should be prepared to provide for ourselves if things keep going the way they are and one of those things is being able to build my own bullets.
I asked the question to avoid buying something I would not use one way or the other, and titegroup was one of those works in all handgun type powders, so, while it may not be a universal as universal or unique or W231, I think I can find a way to use it up. And it was the only powder on the short list that the LGS had in stock.
Picking up some small pistol primers later this week, forgot those yesterday, and will put together a few rounds this weekend, hopefully get out to the BLM back forty this weekend to try them also.
Dave
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rangerphil
Member
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IMO, for pistol it's hard to beat Universal Clays or 231 (HP-38).
Elkins45
Member
I'm messing around with Vectan GM3 at the moment. It is described as a "granular" powder and looks like really fine aquarium gravel. The burn rate is similar to AA#9 but it is much more bulky. 4.0 grains of the stuff is close to 100% load density in a 9mm with normal weight bullets. I'm thinking it might be an excellent choice for loading 38 special in a progressive because a double charge might actually be quite obvious.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
Agree.
I would skip Unique and try for Universal it is cleaner and meters better. (some people swear by Unique though)
Nothing wrong with Titegoup you just need to be careful as the charges don't take up much space. (less of a concern in .380 than .45 colt, Note: you always need to be careful no matter what powder you are using)
Think of it as the difference between a 1/10 and 1/12 of a full glass vs 1/3 or 1/2 of a full glass. (or a glass that overflows) Just easy to spot things with bulkier powders.
Titegroup is a "fast" burn speed powder and tends to be less forgiving than some others. Titegroup is not what I would recommend for a beginner but no reason you can't use and it won't work (maybe well) for you.
There are very few pistol/shotgun powders you can't use in one of the calibers you listed.
Some may work better than others for a given caliber/bullet/charge weight/pistol, but most will work fairly well. Exceptions are things at the very slow side of pistol/shotgun powders.
Unless you want to pay the hazmat you use what you can find locally. If you do want to order something it helps if you order primers along with the powder.
Even in small quantities the cost savings can sometime make it worth the fee+shipping.
For example order 1lb powder $20, 2000 primers $40
LGS 1lb powder $27, 2000 primers $60.
So order =$60, LGS =$87 Hazmat = say $28+ normal shipping say $7 so total shipped $95 or only $7 more than at the LGS. (I do purchase from my LGS on occasion if they have what I want)
Make it 2lbs of powder or 3000 primers and you are even or ahead.
(I know 3000 primers may sound like a lot but when you can load for $6 or $7 a box you can shoot twice as much ammo for the same price
)Most likely you will find each caliber has a preference for its own flavor of powder. Some may agree with each other.
I have multiple 9mm pistols, what works well in one generally works well in the others but they each have a different of idea what works best. (2 of them actually seem to agree)
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bbqreloader
Member
I am also new and found HS-6 works well in my 9, 40 and 45. Will be my goto powder, usually can find it, gettin a little scarce lately though. Still looking for accurate 5 & HP38. Good luck.
I like Dudedog's comment, right on track with everyhting that I have tried:
I like Dudedog's comment, right on track with everyhting that I have tried:
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Hondo 60
Member
For handguns I use a lot of Titegroup.
My others are Universal, W231, Accurate #2 or #5.
I have Unique & Bullseye, but man, they don't measure well.
When I want to use those I end up having to weigh EVERY charge.
My others are Universal, W231, Accurate #2 or #5.
I have Unique & Bullseye, but man, they don't measure well.
When I want to use those I end up having to weigh EVERY charge.
LiveLife
Member
Wait a minute, I can agree with Unique not metering well but Bullseye? If you look at the comparison picture above, Bullseye actually has smaller average granule size (same granule size as Power Pistol/BE-86) than W231/HP-38.
Bullseye meters very well for me, actually better than W231/HP-38 and meters consistently with +/- .1 gr down to 1.5 gr with modified PAD where W231/HP-38 metered consistently down to 2.0 gr - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9318202
Thanks again for all the great advice.
right now, I reload on a single stage press (RCBS Partner), and I use lee powder measures into the powder tin and I weigh each load to get the weight spot on.
Step 1:
universal decapper, vibration tumble, clean out the primer (get walnut out as I pull them from the tumbler, and clean carbon out by hand - pocket brush.
Step 2:
prime, expand - put in loading tray
Step 3:
separate 5 cases
powder 5, bullet 5, seat to depth and crimp
next 5 - repeat as necessary
It would not be that difficult or much more time consuming to powder, bullet, seat and crimp one round, then go to the next and I will most likely do this with the titegroup as I dont want to double load a round and being fairly new to reloading, I want to take my time and do it right. Heck, I might even admire each round a bit as I put it into a separate cartridge case.
A powder measure is on my short list, I am going to pick up one this week, but even with a measure I am going to weigh each load initially.
I am not really into speed loading, I actually am enjoying reloading, and I find it relaxes me and helps me unwind after a day of work so if I go out and load 25, take a break, go load 25 more that is ok
I am kind of the same with fly tying, tie a few, take a break, tie a few more.
when I start reloading .223, 9mm and .380 I may want find I want to go faster, as we tend to go through a few boxes we are shooting these calibers, my son especially with the .223.
For .45 colt, .38, .270 and .243 the shooting goes a bit slower, and I only shoot a box or two of each in a session.
I explain all this to let you know that I fully intend to take it slow, measure, weigh, and ensure no double loads - even with titegroup - I hear the advice, and I have no desire to lose an digits or eyes.
Thanks again for all the advice.
d
right now, I reload on a single stage press (RCBS Partner), and I use lee powder measures into the powder tin and I weigh each load to get the weight spot on.
Step 1:
universal decapper, vibration tumble, clean out the primer (get walnut out as I pull them from the tumbler, and clean carbon out by hand - pocket brush.
Step 2:
prime, expand - put in loading tray
Step 3:
separate 5 cases
powder 5, bullet 5, seat to depth and crimp
next 5 - repeat as necessary
It would not be that difficult or much more time consuming to powder, bullet, seat and crimp one round, then go to the next and I will most likely do this with the titegroup as I dont want to double load a round and being fairly new to reloading, I want to take my time and do it right. Heck, I might even admire each round a bit as I put it into a separate cartridge case.
A powder measure is on my short list, I am going to pick up one this week, but even with a measure I am going to weigh each load initially.
I am not really into speed loading, I actually am enjoying reloading, and I find it relaxes me and helps me unwind after a day of work so if I go out and load 25, take a break, go load 25 more that is ok
I am kind of the same with fly tying, tie a few, take a break, tie a few more.
when I start reloading .223, 9mm and .380 I may want find I want to go faster, as we tend to go through a few boxes we are shooting these calibers, my son especially with the .223.
For .45 colt, .38, .270 and .243 the shooting goes a bit slower, and I only shoot a box or two of each in a session.
I explain all this to let you know that I fully intend to take it slow, measure, weigh, and ensure no double loads - even with titegroup - I hear the advice, and I have no desire to lose an digits or eyes.
Thanks again for all the advice.
d
Toprudder
Member
For the pistol calibers in the OP, I would recommend BE86. I've loaded all those calibers (except for 45 colt) and BE86 was an excellent all around powder. I have no reason to think it won't perform well in 45 colt.
Accurate #5 and W231/HP38 are a good powders that I think it will do well for you.
A few people mentioned HS-6, but I don't recommend that. It does burn dirty, and in a couple of my guns, after about 50-100 rounds, I start having problems with the gun going in to battery. It is from the fouling in the chamber/breech. I've relegated it to revolver use only until I use up my last pound of of.
Unique performs well, but does not meter as well as BE86, and in my testing I thought BE86 performed better than Unique anyway.
Accurate #5 and W231/HP38 are a good powders that I think it will do well for you.
A few people mentioned HS-6, but I don't recommend that. It does burn dirty, and in a couple of my guns, after about 50-100 rounds, I start having problems with the gun going in to battery. It is from the fouling in the chamber/breech. I've relegated it to revolver use only until I use up my last pound of of.
Unique performs well, but does not meter as well as BE86, and in my testing I thought BE86 performed better than Unique anyway.
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