Preventing Pro 1000 set up problems

[LiveLife]

About a week ago, I got a PM from ljnowell that he decided to purchase a Lee Pro 1000 and asked if I would provide support with the initial setup and troubleshooting or "tinkering" that may be required. Of course, I said yes.

Although he is a seasoned reloader who shoots bullseye/PPC (Police Pistol Combat) matches, he has never used a Pro 1000. This thread will showcase our PM discussions with transparency and ljnowell being the "fair and objective" evaluator of the press, whether good or bad.

My goal is to guide him avoid the common problems new Pro 1000 owners face and illustrate how to resolve them along with utilizing various modifications to enhance the operation of the press.

BTW, I am putting my Dillon 650 through its paces so perhaps we may look at 650 problem/solution/modification support thread in the future.

 

[LiveLife]

... ordered the press in 380 auto. That the only die set I didn't already have.

I ordered the pro 1k, case collator, 38/357 and 40/9 shell plates and two extra turrets.

"Great!

Perhaps you can start a new "unboxing" of Pro 1000 thread.

That way others can see how a brand new Pro 1000 is to set up and perform while addressing the issues together (the "High Road" way) to work out issues and see how much actual "tinkering" you may need to do to get it going.

BTW, Pro 1000 work much better with CCI/Winchester/Magtech primers as Tula/Wolf/Fiocchi primers are slightly oversized. What primers are you using?"

I use CCI primers almost exclusively. I used to use Winchester but many of my 38 cases are Winchester and ironically the CCI primers seat better in those cases.

 

[LiveLife]

What do you think about lining the carrier/shell plate with graphite? Seems many recommend that.

"I don't lube the underside of shell plate or the carrier (but graphite can't hurt).

The parts that I lube are the ram/linkage where metal-to-metal contact occurs with motor oil (any weight). I tried synthetic bearing grease but it seemed to collect more contaminants. Oil is easy to wipe off with paper towel which I have mounted on the bench and seem to dissolve the black carbon fouling for easier clean up.

The center hex rod (Lee calls it "action rod") is lubed with a drop of oil on my finger tip. I rub above the shell plate/carrier and below and cycle the ram lever a few times until indexing is smooth. During the reloading session, if the indexing gets less smooth, I will lube the rod with another drop of oil on my finger tip.

I use Breakfree CLP because that's what's on the bench but I also have a plastic bottle with pointed tip (from Harbor Freight) filled with motor oil (I think 10-30W) and I have no problem using either."

On my auto turret I have used white lithium on the ram and linkage, I reapply it a few times a month and wipe off the excess. I never really found a lube that didn't seen to cause premature failure of the index ratchet. The one on the pro1000 seems much more robust than the little flimsy one on the turret though.

 

[LiveLife]

I have seen many that use graphite on the primer chute, I'm not particularly sold on that. I'm going to try it with nothing but the cover over it first.

"Believe me, I have tried all kinds of things on the primer chute to enhance primers to slide.

Of course, not forcing the ram lever to not gouge the primer chute surface in the first place sure helps.

Best thing I found is 'burnishing' with a folded piece of copy paper and elbow grease. Just be sure to "carefully" pry the both ends to not break the index tabs.

But try it first without any lube or burnishing to see how 'out of the box' performance is like. [To help with primer feed] ensure the [primer attachment] pin contacts the notches on the frame bar or adding zip ties to "shake" the primer tray to keep the chute full of primers."

Using a folded 8.5x11 white copy/printer paper, apply firm finger pressure and quickly rub back and forth to burnish/polish the surfaces - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7877744#post7877744

 

[LiveLife]

It's going to be a busy first week or two. I have 1k each of 40 and 380 to load and I need to load a good 3k 38 specials.

My plan is to work up a load with aa#5 then pump out a couple thousand. Then I have to convert the press over to 38 special and get busy.

Btw straight from the box indexing was perfect and after installing case feeder it's working flawlessly. I really like the case collator. I'll experiment with priming today if bullets make it.

I'm going to try it straight out if the box stock to see how it does.

No. Don't do that.

You need to lubricate the machine parts first or you will be saying some choice 4-letter words like many new Pro 1000 owners. I am here to help you avoid those mistakes and not reinvent the wheel.

Moving mechanical parts need lubrication whether wet or dry.

- Pro Auto Disk hopper wiper needs dry lubrication and fine graphite powder works well. I do not run graphite through the hopper like many but do lubricate the wiper surface (that's the part of Pro Auto Disk where moving disk surface contacts the wiper surface). If you don't have fine graphite powder handy, number 2 pencil lead works well. Finely shave the pencil lead on paper and rub the wiper surface on paper until shiny.

Running dry wiper on new Auto Disk surface may cause it to "rub" and not cycle smoothly. Loosening the two brass thumb nuts with fine powders like Accurate small ball powder will likely cause leak from Pro Auto Disk, more so than flattened ball powders like W231/HP-38, WSF, AutoComp. Lubricating the wiper surface with graphite/pencil lead allows you to tighten the brass thumb nuts to reduce powder leakage while allowing the Auto Disk to slide smoothly without damaging the wiper.

- Center index hex rod (action rod) requires wet lubrication or you will prematurely wear the nylon gear and indexing won't work well (and you will be saying some more choice 4-letter words and primer feed will suffer too). One drop of Breakfree/motor oil on finger tip rubbed above/below the shell plate carrier and cycle the ram lever several times until indexing becomes smooth without rubbing/hesitancy of shell plate indexing.

When the center nylon hex gear is worn/damaged so the hole's shape is no longer a hexagon (red arrow), it won't index the shell plate properly and will need to be replaced. Rubbing a drop of oil on the hex/action rod will lubricate the nylon gear and will extend the service life to 10-20K+ cycles (BTW, pictures show improperly installed case sensor spring that's covered on post #7) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8425436#post8425436

- Like any other progressive press, metal-to-metal contact surfaces will need lubrication. I use Breakfree/motor oil but some use grease. I find oil to dissolve the black carbon fouling better from depriming primers (which drops through the slot in the ram) and allows quick clean up with paper towel. You can try both and see which you prefer.

When I said out of the box stock I was just implying no real modifications.

I definitely lubricated some items. I did apply synthetic motor oil to the action rod and ram. I also applied graphite to the wiper on the powder measure. I have not removed the shell plate or tried to apply lube under it, though I did consider some graphite.

- When using smaller/shorter cases like 9mm/380Auto with the case collator, some cases will load in the feeding tube upside down. To prevent this, use a penny and drill a hole to accommodate a spent 22LR case. Place the penny with 22LR case in the center collator hole and case collator will now feed 380/9mm cases with case base down. Link to mod - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6322330#post6322330



- You can try the primer feed attachment first without burnishing the surface. Just be vigilant and keep an eye on the column of primers as the resized case rotates into station #2. As the spent case activates the case sensor and drops the priming rod with a "click" to allow a primer to slide into station #2, watch the column of primers to drop down. If you don't see the column of primers dropping down, then investigate as to why and check for obstruction in the station #2 priming rod area. Chances are, it will be powder granules that fell into primer feed attachment that got pushed down into station #2 by the column of primers.

Also, if you forget to seat a primer and charge a case with smaller than flash hole size powder, powder will leak down into station #2 and cause all kinds of primer feed issues until you blow out the area with compressed air and disassemble the shell plate/carrier and clear the area of powder granules.

Be sure to inspect the bottom of the priming rod hole as powder accumulated at the bottom will prevent the rod from dropping down all the way and will prevent primers from freely sliding into station #2 and likely cause sideways/flipped primers that won't allow the shell plate to rotate and really cause you to say some more choice 4-letter words. When this happens and you force the ram lever, you will gouge/damage the primer feed chute surface which will need to be burnished or replaced. - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7877744#post7877744

I'm also planning on doing your mod of the primer shoot with a piece of paper as I use lots of AA#2 and it's a fine powder that gets into everything.

Using a cover, even a simple one made from cut copy paper will prevent debris from falling into primer chute. A cover made from clear plastic will help you see the column of primer movement better (Picture shows W231/HP-38).

 

[LiveLife]

I'm going to try it straight out if the box stock to see how it does.

"Also, if you don't make a cover for the spent primer slot in the ram, the spent primers will go all over the bench as only some of them will go into the hole in the press base.

I made a cover out of cut aluminum can and now 99.9% of spent primers go into the hole.

Here's how to make the cover" - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7884861#post7884861

Cover inserted outside of the hole in the ram cutout (green arrows). Make sure the cover is pressed in deep enough to clear the press base when the ram lever is operated.

 

[LiveLife]

Well as expected I ran into issues.

First, from my reading I was under the impression that the case sensor prevented the primer feed from feeding a primer when there was no case present.

The case sensor not working is due to case sensor spring not installed properly.

Picture on the left shows incorrectly installed case sensor spring which will hold the rod down, allowing extra primers to slide into station #2. Picture on the right shows correctly installed spring which allows the rod to stay up when there is no case present in station #2 and block primers from sliding into station #2.

 

[LiveLife]

and in the fifth round the ram pulled out of the carrier. Grrrr. Don't have the right wrench to fit it in my house, have to drive out to my shop tomorrow.

Simple fix, tighten with Allen wrench.

Be sure the shell plate carrier is pressed all the way down on the ram or when you tighten the Allen head bolt, you may crack the shell plate carrier. I use a used plastic primer tray and brace against the top frame while I push down on the ram lever to completely seat the shell plate carrier on the ram before I tighten the Allen head bolt.

 

[ljnowell]

I want to start off by thanking BDS for his help. I have known him through this forum for some time and find his contributions to the forum to be very helpful. He takes time from his own life to help anyone that needs it.

While on the surface it may look like I had some serious issues the truth is the problems were few, minor, and in most cases my own fault.

I have some pictures to share of the in boxing of the press showing how it's packed, assembled, and shipped from the factory and some if the mounting and final assembly. I also have some anecdotes to relate regarding getting it up and running.

First things first, as said above by BDS lubricate the action robs above and below the carrier. I also used some graphite on the wiper on the powder measure. Knock on wood but it isn't leaking a bit and I'm using AA#5, a known problem powder for this measure.

 

[ljnowell]

The first problem I ran into was the feeding of primers without a case present. This created a mess trying to get my charge weight set and seating depth dialed in.

Just as predicted by BDS my case sensor looked just like first picture. I took a regular screwdriver and slid it to where it belonged, BAM! Problem solved.

The second problem I encountered was the carrier pulled off the ram at the top of the stroke when I went to lower the ram(with the cases stuck in the dies). I went out to my garage and grabbed a 3/16 Allen wrench and tightened it down, problem solved.

Now, are you ready for this? Grab your butts and wait for it...........this thing works! After fixing those two minor issues no more problems. Finished out my test loads and will hopefully start production tomorrow of a thousand 380s.

 

[ljnowell]

I mentioned problems caused by me. Well here they are:

1. Being unaccustomed to the use of this press I forgot to seat a primer. This of course caused two problems. First, 4.2gr of AA#5 was deposited in my shell carrier and primer seating area. This caused a double fed primer and a series of sideways primers. When I blew it out with compressed air and attached the case sensor spring properly, no more issues. It works exactly as designed.

2. The second issue was that I turned the case feeder to feed cases while trying to set my charge weight instead if feeding one at a time. This made for a huge pain in the butt that lead to bad language.

 

[ljnowell]

I also made a cover for the primer chute out of plain lined notebook paper like the one pictures above before I even added powder to the press.

I use CCI primers and without any polishing, buffing, or lubrication (but some praying, not gonna lie!) they feed good. I am going to add a few zip ties to the post on the press to provide some extra shake of the feed tray tomorrow just for insurance.

More tomorrow!

 

[LiveLife]

Thanks! I just wanted to drop you a serious thank you!

I was able to get my pro1k up and running fairly easily and today loaded 650rds if 380 in two hours. I was going slow also, paying close attention to the primer feed and powder drop.

I found that about every 15 rounds I give the primer tray a flick or two, just to be sure and it seems to run like a champ.

Also, is it just me or does this press seat primers MUCH more easily than a Lee turret? I used to really have to push on the turret to seat some and this press is super easy.

Thanks again and I really hope that one day I can return the favor to you.

You are very welcome and I am just paying forward the generosity extended to me by my bullseye match shooting mentor.

So I ask you the same. When the opportunity arise in your future life with someone in need, just pay forward.

And if you run into any issues with the Pro 1000, THR tech support is always available.

 

[midland man]

well I have a question? I am looking at purchasing a lee pro 1000 to load 45 colt ammo with, so has anyone loaded 45 colt on these machines and how did it do? and was there much trouble loading 45 colt on a lee pro 1000?? thanks guys!!

 

[ljnowell]

well I have a question? I am looking at purchasing a lee pro 1000 to load 45 colt ammo with, so has anyone loaded 45 colt on these machines and how did it do? and was there much trouble loading 45 colt on a lee pro 1000?? thanks guys!!

I can't answer your question directly as I am a neophyte in regards to this press. However I am using it currently to load 380 auto. It is my experience that the smaller the case the more difficult to load through a case feeder, progressive press, etc. There are also many that claim with large primers the press works even better.

If you go this route, pay attention to BDS's other thread and this one, your install and setup can be quite painless.

 

[LiveLife]

I prefer to reload rifle cartridges on single stage press (more relaxing and precise for me) but will use Pro 1000 for higher volume production of pistol rounds.

I load 45Colt on the single stage press as I do not require the volume production but many use Pro 1000 for 44Mag and I don't see why loading 45Colt would be any different.

 

[LiveLife]

Here are some more tips to enhance the operation of the Pro 1000:

- You can lower the ram lever halfway to unlock the auto index to rotate the shell plate back on the Pro 1000.

I use this feature to drop several powder charges to settle the consistency of drop charges at the start of reloading session after adding powder to the hopper. With smaller less fluffy powders like Bullseye/Titegroup/W231/HP-38/WSF/AutoComp, it only takes 3-4 drops to settle the charges but with coarse powders like Red Dot/Promo, I lightly tap the powder hopper 10 times then drop several charges until they are consistent (if you don't tap the powder hopper to settle the fluffy powders, your powder drops may drift until powder settles in the hopper).

Due to the smaller volume of powder hopper, I do not need to use powder baffle with the Pro Auto Disk.

I also use the unlocking of the auto index when I am determining max OAL/COL with a new bullet. I will load the dummy round (no powder/no primer) to SAAMI max length and rotate the #3 station back to incrementally reduce the OAL/COL until the dummy round drops in the chamber freely with a "plonk/plunk".


- You can remove the center hex/action rod to turn the Pro 1000 into a turret press. I use this feature when doing load development with new bullet/powder.


- Since you are a bullseye match shooter (and probably OCD about reloading consistency), if you want to enhance the consistency of your loads, separately resize/deprime the cases with just the resizing/depriming die in station #1 of the 3-hole turret. With the case feeder, you can process a lot of cases in a hurry.

This will not only reduce the ram lever effort during progressive mode reloading and further smooth the operation but also reduce bullet seating and OAL/COL variation from shell plate tilt, particularly from overly expanded/bulged case that requires extra effort on the ram lever.


- If you want to seat and crimp in separate steps with the 3-station Pro 1000, use resized cases and flare/powder charge in station #1, seat bullet in station #2 and crimp in station #3.


- For faster caliber change that requires different shell plate/primer size/primer seating rod size, instead of changing the shellplate/primer attachment (Large/Small marked on side of attachment)/seating rod (Large/Small), just buy another shell plate carrier. Switching out 3-hole turret with preset dies and shellplate carrier takes me bout 2 minutes.


- To change the Pro Auto Disk hole size (say for caliber change) without removing the hopper, rotate the hopper clockwise to turn off the powder measure and using the auto index unlock feature (lower the ram lever halfway to unlock auto index), drop several powder charges until no powder drops into the case (dump powder from case back in the hopper) and with the ram lever pushed down, gently lift up the Pro Auto Disk and push the disk towards you.

After selecting a different hole, push the disk back in making sure the round lever end is inserted in the slot on the bottom of the disk. Turn hopper counterclockwise to turn on the measure and drop several charges until drops are consistent.

Note: Before starting any reloading session, my QC check with Pro Auto Disk is to raise the ram lever and push the disk away from me to ensure the disk is fully retracted under the wiper. If the disk slides back more than 1/16", the bead chain is not tensioned properly or the spring at the bottom is missing. If the disk hole does not fully retract to be aligned under the wiper opening, your powder drops will be inconsistent and charge weight will vary.

If you are using uncoated/lightly coated powders, I would inspect the hopper wiper prior to each reloading session and lubricate wiper as necessary.

Now go have fun with your Pro 1000 using these tips!

 

[maxxhavoc]

- You can lower the ram lever halfway to unlock the auto index to rotate the shell plate back on the Pro 1000.

A note on this for folks who have either:
-Bought an older pro 1000 which uses the Auto-Disk vs the Pro Auto disk (i.e. uses a spring to retract the disc instead of a bead chain)
-Modified the Pro Auto-Disc to use a spring instead of the bead chain

Try to get in the habit of always removing all in-process brass from the press every time you do not use a full stroke. Every station, every time. If you don't, you will accidentally go half-stroke, raise the ram again and get a double charge. This can happen when you notice a problem like a half-seated bullet, or have a case stick while raising the ram. It happened to me once, and I noticed it while putting a bullet on and saved myself much misery.

I upgraded mine to the Pro Auto-Disk, and this is no longer as dangerous of a situation.

And to stay on thread When you assemble your Pro Auto-Disk, make sure there is a bead chain link above where the chain goes through the shellplate carrier and below the hopper. That way, if the chain gets hung up, the link will fail before the chain breaks. Just snap the chain back into the link, squeeze the link closed again, and keep loading.

 

[LiveLife]

Good point maxxhavoc.

During the initial Pro 1000 set up, you are likely to break the bead chain if the shellplate carrier and disk are not fully retracted so before running the bead chain:

- Lower the shellplate carrier fully
- Retract the disk or push down on the auto disk lever fully
- Be sure the spring is at the bottom of the bead chain and feed the chain through the lever holes with spring slightly compressed.

 

[ljnowell]

As far as the spring and chain goes I found it easiest to feed the chain through with the carrier all the way down, the raise the ram halfway and pull a couple little links/balls of the chain through the lever on the powder measure, shortening it. This worked great

I also want to give a warning to anyone coming from a Lee turret press. It does not take much effort at all to seat primers on this press. I am used to fighting primers on a Lee classic turret for the last 7 or so years and this is totally different. Be careful any go slow until you get the hang of the feel it is very different.

 

[ljnowell]

I thought I would go back today and add some more pictures of unboxing. I also have more coming of the setup and modifications.

As packed from Grafs, they put the Pro1k kit, case collator, 38/357 shell plate, and extra turret all packed in this.

 

[ljnowell]

Next comes the Lee box, I find it funny, but Lee is very proud of their equipment.

 

[ljnowell]

Inside the Lee box from the small end. The press itself and the powder measure hopper and l needed hardware is under this layer.

On the left is the magazine tubes for the casefeeder and the roller handle that comes with this press now.

Next is the assembled die and turret. I did need to fine tune all three dies, of course, but the were very close to right on. The base of the powder measure is attached already and you can see the disks for it wrapped in foam on top.

The next item, left to right is the base of the casefeeder.

 

[ljnowell]

Here is a better picture of how the dies came out of the box with the base of the powder measure.

 

[ljnowell]

Roller handle with attaching hardware. I will say this regarding the roller handle, it's one of the things that I was most looking forward to. To be honest though, I'm thinking about converting it to the old style handle. There is a certain amount of flex to it that I just don't really care for.