Primitive Weapon

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pwillie

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It looks like we are going to have a primitive weapon season on deer....so,whats the easiest rifle to load and shoot.No scope,just iron sights?I am used to long range shooting,but I know this action will take place between 50 and 100 yards...so,anyone can help?:confused:
 
I'm partial to CVA inline muzzle loaders.

For open sights, I recommend the Elkhorn Pro 209, or if on a slimmer budget, the Buckhorn 209.

Most other CVA rifles come optics ready, without irons.
 
I have a couple of Thompson Center Black Diamonds in .45 and .50... Both wear fiber optic front sights with peep rear. IMO, this is about the best hunting sight available if restricted to irons. Brand is less important, they're all pretty good these days.
 
Cheapest & easiest way to go is the CVA Bobcat in .50 cal. & they shoot great.................
 
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An underhammer rifle is a caplock rifle where the nipple and hammer are located below or "under" the barrel, thus removing or extremely lowering the possibility of debris from the flash of the cap from interfering with the shooter's face or eye(s). In some stock designs, they are also ambidextrous, because the lock is not located on the right or left side of the barrel.

LD
 
There's nothing "primitive" about a modern inline muzzleloader, the powder (or pellets) they use or its projectiles. They are only technically acceptable because they load from the muzzle.
 
What are the rules? Many states require a side lock and percussion cap ignition for primitive weapons seasons in addition to iron sights. About any good shooting caplock Hawken style gun would work about the same. I have a Cabela's Hawken Hunter Carbine that shoots heavy lead minies OR sabots well with its 1:24 twist (some states limit projectiles to full bore lead, no sabots), but I never got to take it to New Mexico, which was my intent when I bought it.

An inline is MUCH easier to live with, one with a tooless removable breach block being preferred. I have a CVA wolf bought at Gander Mountain 3 years ago on sale for $179 that's a tack driver and easy to clean up OR unload without having to fire it. I have taken one deer last year with it, but in regular rifle season as we have no primitive weapons season in that county in Texas. The ones Texas DOES have are AFTER gun season, kinda stupid. I don't even know the rules on it. I just moved and my county here on my place here might be one of the counties that has a BP season. I'll have to do some reading up on that. :D
 
Easiest? How about an Enfield rifle musket that shoots a 535 grain minie ball? No patch, no sabot with plastic fowling, no struggling with the ram rod as they are undersized (but expand upon being fired). You can reach out to 500 yards with them too.
 
pwillie, loading and shooting is just half the story....how about cleaning?
Now this is where different guns show their difference.
Muzzleloaders are best cleaned with water and water based solutions and this must be completely removed for corrosion free storage.
My most prized ML is a flintlock that the barrel is difficult to separate from the beautiful stock causing me to worry about moisture left between stock, barrel and action. Not an easy task.
Some sidelocks have what is called a "hooked breech" that allows for easy separation of barrel and wood. A lot easier but you can't remove the breechplug for cleaning and inspection.
Most if not all modern inlines have removable breech plugs that make straight through cleaning and inspection even easier. The only down side to this is that special attention must be payed to the breech plug to make sure that it is cleaned and antisiezed.
Although I prefer sidelocks the best configuration is the break action inline because you can easily separate the barrel from the action and clean separately.
IMHO, although I don't own one and they are not cheap, the "Redemption" appears to be the easiest muzzleloader to load, shoot, and clean and will be my next rifle buy.

You asked me what time it is and I told you how to build a watch.
 
I must admit,that I am lazy when it comes to cleaning firearms....thats why all my center fires are SST......I have black powder pistols,that I have never fired because of the cleaning,but an opportunity exists to exteend the hunting season,so I am now interested in BP rifles...
 
Pancho said:
My most prized ML is a flintlock that the barrel is difficult to separate from the beautiful stock causing me to worry about moisture left between stock, barrel and action. Not an easy task.
One time: remove the barrel, tang and lock. Coat all interior wood surfaces (all the areas under the barrel, tang and lock that are normally not accessible) with your choice of stock finishing oil (tung oil, BLO, etc.). Apply several coats, allowing each to dry thoroughly. Then liberally apply a good paste wax (I recommend Rennaisance Wax, which is used by museum curators to preserve their collections) over the same surfaces. There will no longer be any reason to be concerned about moisture damage to the stock.

Finally, apply a good layer of paste wax to the underside of the barrel and tang before reinstalling. That will prevent rust over the long term. As far as the lock is concerned, I'm sure you regularly remove, clean and oil it.
 
a minnie ball is less than bore sized and is very easy to load. A bullet sized to the actual bore will serve you much better, in my opinion and is easy to load, not needing a short starter. Peep sights with a proper front sight (this is important... you have to make sure that you have a proplerly installed front sight of proper height) is quite accurate and fool proof.

Aloha...
 
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