Problem with a Colt Cobra

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Hatchett

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Jul 24, 2003
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Birmingham, AL
A friend asked me if I wanted a Colt d-frame "parts gun" for a few bucks. I shrugged and said maybe, depending on the shape of the parts. Then he handed me a 1968 Colt Cobra in .38 with an absolutely immaculate finish. I look at him like he's nuts and say sold. He said check it over first. Timing was perfect. Lockup like a safe door. Trigger smooth as any Colt I've handled. There weren't even any of those microscopic scratches in the aluminum from being wiped off with a scratchy paper towel. It was mint.

I aimed it at the floor, and realized the barrel was canted slightly to the side. In the sight picture, the tip of the front sight was at the 1 o'clock position instead of 12. Under the barrel, inside the crane on the underside of where the barrel threads into the frame, there was a thin but glaring silver hairline crack that could be felt with a fingernail. The gun had probably been fired a few dozen times its whole life, and I guess one had been a handload or +P just a few pounds of pressure too much for the aluminum frame. I handed it back wanting to cry. He says he's just going to try to sell the parts one at a time online.

I'm honestly thinking about maybe offering him a hundred bucks for it. It was so pretty, and I could just use it as a placeholder in my Colt snake collection and use it for dryfire practice. If nothing else, I (plan to) have plenty of other D frames and the parts alone might be worth having some day. Supposing I did pick it up, and supposing I didn't want to pay a gunsmith to do it for me since it's just a very pretty paperweight anyway, how would I go about turning the barrel back so the sight is at the top again, just so it doesn't look silly?

I know people are warned against trying to unscrew barrels themselves and without the fitted specialty tools as it can bend the frame, especially in aluminum framed guns, but with the crack I imagine it probably isn't in there quite as tight as it would be. Still way too tight to turn by hand, though.
 
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Well then try this

Again, since the frame is cracked; little is to loose. Remove the cylinder with the proper screw driver used on the crane screw on the right side of the frame, when the screw is out, the cylinder will slide foward and off of the frame when the cylinder is open. With a bench vise, clamp the barrel with lead ingots on each side of the barrel but remain clear of the frame, you can really tighten the lead to the barrel. Then with (2) 2X2 wood boards about 15 inches long, clamp them with C clamps to the flat side areas of the frame. Make sure the wood fits to the flat of the frame. The c- clamps will be placed to provide equal pressue to the top and bottom of the frame by clamping to the outside of the wood. Then rotate the frame in the direction to center the front sight. You may want to go slow and watch the crack to see if it opens up as you apply pressure. If the crack opens, you may want to stop as it might break. The barrel may move in the lead ingots, so tighten more or when the front sight hits the lead, it will provide the resistance to allow the barrel threads to turn in the frame. The wood should do little damage to the finish of the frame.

When you are done, the gun would be an excellent plastic/rubber bullet gun or should also work as a blank firing gun. I believe winchester blanks are about .50 each but one can fill a standard empty 38 special case full with 700X and top it with a cardboard wad for the same loud noise.

Speer plastic bullets are a lot of fun and a good training aid. Primer powered and if you make a good enough rubber strip back stop, the plastic bullets are reusable for a long time.

About the only parts that are desireable are in desending order: wood stocks, mainspring(for those who have weaken theirs by over bending), hand(but needs fitting to another gun), hammer/firing pin(for those who have made a bobbed hammer and want to go back) and rebound(for those who have tried to work on theirs and have wreck it) and lastly the cylinder/ ratchet and ejector rod head. The barrel is about useless as almost no one will try and remove a barrel from a alloy gun as it may damage the frame.
 
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