hollywoodfl
Member
The spent casings arent coming out smooth on my S&W 686. I am relatively new to shooting, so I am not sure if this is supposed to be the case.
thanks.
thanks.
Problem with S&W 686
- Thread starter hollywoodfl
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glockman19
Member
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- Mar 16, 2007
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How many rounds have you shot and what ammujition are you shooting? Sounds like it's time for a cleaning & lubing.
Yep! Clean it, brush it, clean it again and LIGHTLY lubricate the charge holes.
Check your ammunition. Most anything from a major manufacturer (Remington, Winchester, Federal, CCI/Speer, Hornady, etc) ought to function/eject without effort. Beware of low-ball commercial remanufactured/reloaded stuff. You may have stumbled on a batch of high-pressure foul-ups. These would tend to weld the cases in the charge holes.
Check your ammunition. Most anything from a major manufacturer (Remington, Winchester, Federal, CCI/Speer, Hornady, etc) ought to function/eject without effort. Beware of low-ball commercial remanufactured/reloaded stuff. You may have stumbled on a batch of high-pressure foul-ups. These would tend to weld the cases in the charge holes.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I clean my revolver after every range trip. If you haven't cleaned your that might be the problem like mentioned above.
Here is a page on cleaning a Ruger revolver but the cleaning techniques will work on all revolvers. Here is another good page on how to properly clean a revolver. These aren't the only ways but it will give you a good idea on where to start. BreakFree CLP is good to use and I also use Hoppe's #9. I also like Remington Oil for lubrication even though BreakFree CLP is supposed to do that too.
Welcome to the forum....
Here is a page on cleaning a Ruger revolver but the cleaning techniques will work on all revolvers. Here is another good page on how to properly clean a revolver. These aren't the only ways but it will give you a good idea on where to start. BreakFree CLP is good to use and I also use Hoppe's #9. I also like Remington Oil for lubrication even though BreakFree CLP is supposed to do that too.
Welcome to the forum....
Confederate
Member
A number of things can cause this. Is the gun new? Was it clean when you shot it and what were you shooting in it (.38s, .357s, bullet type, weight and configuration)?
1. Reloaded HOT loads can stick in chambers and can be a sign of dangerous pressure;
2. Magnum rounds are hotter than conventional .38s and it's sometimes natural for them to stick a little. Try ejecting them with one assertive downward push. If you still think it's a problem, let the range master or a more experienced shooter try.
3. If you're shooting both magnum and .38 ammo, because of the different headspacing, the crud buildup caused by the non-magnum ammo could be making extraction difficult; and
4. Rough chambers. Sometimes new guns leave the factories that way, but it's rare. Still, you can try using a cotton swab and a polishing compound like Semichrome or Flitz to smooth the bores out. Do it while watching TV or, if you're in a hurry, use a polishing wheel on a small Dremel.
Oh, and you can lightly lube the inside of the chambers with one of these miracle lubes like MILITEC-1 or WeaponShield, but go very light on this stuff.
Just a few suggestions to start off with. If you still have problems, send the gun to me, I'll shoot it for a few years and break it in for you. (Don't thank me, I'd do it for anybody!)
1. Reloaded HOT loads can stick in chambers and can be a sign of dangerous pressure;
2. Magnum rounds are hotter than conventional .38s and it's sometimes natural for them to stick a little. Try ejecting them with one assertive downward push. If you still think it's a problem, let the range master or a more experienced shooter try.
3. If you're shooting both magnum and .38 ammo, because of the different headspacing, the crud buildup caused by the non-magnum ammo could be making extraction difficult; and
4. Rough chambers. Sometimes new guns leave the factories that way, but it's rare. Still, you can try using a cotton swab and a polishing compound like Semichrome or Flitz to smooth the bores out. Do it while watching TV or, if you're in a hurry, use a polishing wheel on a small Dremel.
Oh, and you can lightly lube the inside of the chambers with one of these miracle lubes like MILITEC-1 or WeaponShield, but go very light on this stuff.
Just a few suggestions to start off with. If you still have problems, send the gun to me, I'll shoot it for a few years and break it in for you. (Don't thank me, I'd do it for anybody!
)hollywoodfl
Member
Thanks - I was shooting what they had at the range. I put 300 rounds of 357 magnum through it so far, in two trips. I cleaned it both times after the trip to the range. I will check those links to make sure that I am cleaning it correctly. Is there a practice ammunition that is better than others? I can go to a gun show and buy a bunch of it there.
It was my understanding that I should clean the gun every time I use it. Is that correct?
I am trying to get used to the gun, so I figured I would put three boxes through it each week. Is that the right idea?
I was thinking of taking a class to give me more of a push in the knowledge department.
I appreciate any help that I can get.
thanks again.
It was my understanding that I should clean the gun every time I use it. Is that correct?
I am trying to get used to the gun, so I figured I would put three boxes through it each week. Is that the right idea?
I was thinking of taking a class to give me more of a push in the knowledge department.
I appreciate any help that I can get.
thanks again.
Are you sure the ejector rod's not bent? Do you only notice this while actually ejecting brass? Work the ejector rod with nothing in the cylinder to be sure it's smooth.
I've seen 686 snubbies - do you have one of these? With barrel lengths of less than 3", the ejector rod may be too short to push the cases all the way out themselves, so in this case, it'd help even more here to keep the chambers clean.
You'll get a lot of different opinions here. Some clean their revolver scrupulously every time it's shot. Others go to the other extreme, and most are in the middle. To be honest, with a revolver, with some exceptions (e.g. keeping cylinder clean), I think it likely has more to do with personal preference than need. Keep in mind that overzealous or inappropriate cleaning can be as bad as outright neglect.
I've seen 686 snubbies - do you have one of these? With barrel lengths of less than 3", the ejector rod may be too short to push the cases all the way out themselves, so in this case, it'd help even more here to keep the chambers clean.
You'll get a lot of different opinions here. Some clean their revolver scrupulously every time it's shot. Others go to the other extreme, and most are in the middle. To be honest, with a revolver, with some exceptions (e.g. keeping cylinder clean), I think it likely has more to do with personal preference than need. Keep in mind that overzealous or inappropriate cleaning can be as bad as outright neglect.
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hollywoodfl
Member
Yes, it is a snub nose. I will check the ejector rod when I get home.
I saw you were shooting .357magnums, and assumed you hadn't yet shot .38spls; the shorter case ought to make these easier to eject. Easier on the wallet, too. Shooting .38spls will deposit residue in the cylinder, which may eventually make insertion of the longer .357magnums difficult, so if you choose to shoot .38spls, it'd be another reason to keep the cylinders clean.
hollywoodfl
Member
I guess I was trying to get used to the .357 ammunition. I was thinking of getting a .38 revolver as well.
BlindJustice
Member
I had a problem with a S&W 625 from the first time out - sent it back to S&W and they checked it and replaced the cylinder. Problem solved.
YcylinderMV
YcylinderMV
RobertFBurnett
Member
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2007
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- 415
I was at my local gun shop tonight discussing S&W cylinders and the older salesman said he had been unscrewing the screw closest to the "Made in USA/Springfield, MA" and the cylinder and swing would slide forward and you are free to clean it/check it, etc. all over.
Now I've heard Horror stories about the Bag-o-S&W due to taking that sideplate off and not knowing how to put it back. Is it really that easy?
RFB
Now I've heard Horror stories about the Bag-o-S&W due to taking that sideplate off and not knowing how to put it back. Is it really that easy?
RFB
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I clean my guns after every range trip and I think it's a good idea.
The more you can shoot the better you will shoot. I'm just a little worried about you starting to shoot using full power .357 Magnum rounds. Sometimes new shooters will develop a "flinch" when shooting Magnum rounds. It's usually a good idea to start with lighter .38 Special rounds to get used to shooting a short barrel revolver and then work your way up to the heavier rounds. A short barrel revolver is a little harder to shoot well than 4" + barrel revolvers. Also, the trigger on current revolvers are a lot heavier and longer than those on a semi-auto pistol so that takes practice too. I would suggest buying a set of snap caps so you can practice trigger control. You will be amazed at what you will see using caps because there is no recoil to distract you from seeing what you are doing when you pull the trigger. The added bonus is you get a smoother trigger from all the trigger pulls.
hollywoodfl
Member
First of all - thanks for all the tips.
I went to the range tonight and shot two boxes of 38 special and I was a way better shot with those. The brass did not come out very easy. I did check the ejector, which seems to be working fine. Someone suggested that it is because the barrell is so short, 2.5". They said the ejector on a 2.5" barrell was not as long as it should be.
One other thing. I keep busting the inside of my thumb open. The recoil rocks the grip against this one spot on my thumb and eventually it starts bleeding. Do you guys think I am holding the gun incorrectly. I attempted to ask the range guy the same question, but he was not in a helpful mood.
I am going to clean the revolver with the tutorial listed above.
Thanks again.
I went to the range tonight and shot two boxes of 38 special and I was a way better shot with those. The brass did not come out very easy. I did check the ejector, which seems to be working fine. Someone suggested that it is because the barrell is so short, 2.5". They said the ejector on a 2.5" barrell was not as long as it should be.
One other thing. I keep busting the inside of my thumb open. The recoil rocks the grip against this one spot on my thumb and eventually it starts bleeding. Do you guys think I am holding the gun incorrectly. I attempted to ask the range guy the same question, but he was not in a helpful mood.
I am going to clean the revolver with the tutorial listed above.
Thanks again.
Virginian
Member
If you open the cylinder and point the barrel up and smack the ejector, do the rounds eject? If so, that is satisfactory with a piece like this IMO. Trying to eject them easy may make it seem harder.
What type of grips do you have? Sounds to me like you are not getting a firm grip if a 686 is rolling up with 38s. Might want to look at Pachmyer or Hogue, rubber and wood.
What type of grips do you have? Sounds to me like you are not getting a firm grip if a 686 is rolling up with 38s. Might want to look at Pachmyer or Hogue, rubber and wood.
hollywoodfl
Member
Let me clarify. It isn't rocking with the 38s, only with the 357s. It has rubber grips.
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