Problems with 300AAC Rifle

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Rusty Luck

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I am having some problems with my 300AAC. Okay so here is what happens: when I chamber a round (1st round in a 30rd mag) and then try to eject the round it is so hard to pull back on the charging handle that I had to brace with my feet and use 2 hands to pull on my extended ambi charging handle. The gun has yet to be fired, and was purchased as a complete rifle from S&W. Does it just need to be shot? I've tried 3 different brands of magazines (Troy, Pmag, CAA) and there is no deformation on the bullets, casing, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
 
First question: Ammo details. Brand, bullet, measurements if possible.

Second: Is this problem only on the first found of a full mag?

Third: can you drop a round in the tube, close the bolt carrier and still have the same thing happen? Do the rounds pass the "plunk" test in the chamber?

Fourth: Does everything pass a visual inspection? Chamber, carrier, upper receiver, charging handle etc?

I would wait to shoot it. Seems like there may be a chamber issue possibly… A round should not be able to stick in the chamber like that.
 
The bullets are Hornady's, the overall length is 2&1/8in (don't have calipers where I am so it's not a perfectly exact measurement.

It's sometimes the first sometimes the 4th, other times all of them. I also had one hang up in the chamber.

Yes I tried dropping them in the chamber and it appears fine. Visually the gun looks good. If I do drop the round in and then release the BCG and then eject the round it's all good.

Is it possibly the feed ramps? Or do just all my mags suck? (I tired new mags and used mags too)
 
If you chamber a round from the magazine, then remove the magazine from the gun then try to eject it does it still do it?
 
FWIW, that's exactly the symptom when the case is slightly too long for the chamber. I had the die set a little long once and didn't check with a case gage. The loaded rounds functioned fine - the bolt had enough energy to mash them into the chamber, and when fired they extracted fine - but trying to extract a chambered but not fired round was very difficult. When I checked with a case gage, they were just a few thousandths too long. It made me a believer in case gages.

If these are reloads, try factory ammo. If it's factory ammo, check the headspace.

Of course, as others have said, it could be something else entirely.
 
It's still hard to remove even if I remove the magazine. But not hard at all if I drop it in one round at a time.

I'm gonna measure the cases and such with calipers when I get the chance.

They are reloads from "Bite the bullet". I had heard good things about them from a busy and I wanted something to shoot while I start to get all the reloading supplies I need (new to reloading).
 
It's still hard to remove even if I remove the magazine. But not hard at all if I drop it in one round at a time.

I'm gonna measure the cases and such with calipers when I get the chance.

They are reloads from "Bite the bullet". I had heard good things about them from a busy and I wanted something to shoot while I start to get all the reloading supplies I need (new to reloading).
It sounded like they were factory hornady rounds earlier, which should be fine, but being that these are remanufactered rounds, it is likely a headspace issue. Dropping the bolt on a single round is bumpung the shoulder enough to ease extraction.
 
My mistake, I thought I had specified that they were reloads in my second post. What should I do? Shoot them? Send them back?
 
300 aac blk

Reloads or factory? Did you initially scrub the chamber and barrel?
Sorry missed first question answered already. If you haven't yet, scrub and clean that chamber and barrel well. If that doesn't cure it, personally I would not shoot them as they are. If they can't get sizing, case length/oal right I wouldn't trust their stuffing right either. Get your stuff together and do it yourself or buy factory to start.
 
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The problem is I'm in the midst of buying reloading equipment and such. And factory ammo is really hard to find and when I can it's price gouged.
 
Midway has 300BLK case gages for $27. Get one and test the reloads. If they are over length ask for a refund from the vendor.
 
I'm a class 06 manufacturer, and I do load .300 Blackout for my own use. I've shot my .300 Blackout through two different uppers with excellent, reliable results. A friend of mine is a major class 06 manufacturer of .300 Blackout.

I use a Wilson case gage for setting up my sizing die. I'd bet that your ammo is out-of-spec. Get a gage and test the ammo.

Find another source for ammo.

If you want to buy in case lots at a good price, give Danny Cooper a call @ 229-308-4340, Cooper Cartridge Co. Danny sells to Brownell's and other large vendors. Tell Danny you were referred online by the smartest guy he ever met. :evil:
 
I'd bet that your ammo is out-of-spec. Get a gage and test the ammo.
Agreed.

Another thing to note, by all reports you can shoot both 300 Whisper and 300 BLK in a 300 BLK chamber, but not vice versa. I am sure there are exceptions.
 
Headspace between Whisper and BO is the same, but the BO is supposed to have more leade and cartridges would cause higher pressure in a Whisper chamber.
 
I realize it's dithering with a small detail, but "headspace" isn't "loaded cartridge length." The headspace could be 100% correct, but since it's assembled reloads, the overall length could simply be too much for that particular chamber.

In tapered cases like the 5.56, headspace is measured from the front of the taper/base of the neck to the base of the cartridge.

Overall length would be shoving the bullet into the rifling and causing it to engage, engraving marks into the jacket.

Dropping them in shows it's the force of the bolt slamming home that pushes the bullet into the rifling. If the headspace was too short, it wouldn't lock properly. If the headspace was too long, there wouldn't be extraction issues. The round would rattle in the chamber.

Loading rounds long is a common technique that is believed to improve accuracy. It has to do with minimizing the bullet getting cocked slightly off axis before it engages the rifling. The difficulty is that a self loading action can set back bullets that aren't crimped, and can push the nose slightly off axis if they aren't held firmly.

There are reloading jigs that measure the exactly how far off axis the bullet nose it, and then help adjust it to within .001" to improve group sizes. The idea is to have the bullet straight in the bore so it isn't predisposed to tip over when it jumps to the rifling.

It remains to be seen for the individual rifle which proves more accurate. Just because it's a generally accepted principle doesn't mean it works in that gun. Considering that long loads have problems feeding from short mags, the action cycling them into the chamber, and how much force is involved, it's a matter of whether a hand loaded manual action target gun procedure is relevant at all. It goes the military small arms ammo is crimped - to resist the battering.

Try the action with a commercially loaded round of ammo and see if the problem is still there. I expect it's the reloads.
 
The issue is most likely the cases weren't properly fully resized. Doesnt mean they wont fire though. The force of the gas throwing the bolt will probably cycle them.
 
If you are using reloads/remanufactured ammo, that could well be your culprit.

I bought a couple of bags of remanufactured 5.56/223 ammo from a gunshow a few months ago and it would not cycle in my AR.

I would highly suggest spending the money to buy at least one (or a few) box of factory loaded ammo. You can get them right now for around $1/rd more or less. I've seen some factory ammo for $44/50rds last I looked for 300BLK ammo online.

Now if its not the ammo, then there might be other issues with your rifle. Try this:

Load 1 round into a reliable mag (Pmag/GI) and chamber it. Then eject the round without firing it and see if it still binds or not. I'm hoping your upper is not out of spec or there is not anything binding in your Receiver extension (buffer tube).
 
Okay so I bought a box of new Hornady 300 whisper/blackout (as said on box) it is a little shorter and chambers/feeds/ejects easily/well. This leads me to think that the rifle is made for "whisper" and not "blackout" as previously suggested.

My new question is: How do I or what do I need to do to make it take all 300AAC ammo? Can I do it? Should I take it to a gunsmith to do it? Thanks.
 
Rusty, I disagree. I still think the culprit is that the reloads exceed the cartridge overall length. The only way to know for sure is to buy a .300 BLK case guage and test the reloads. If the reloads are in spec then you'll have to get your chamber cast or send the rifle back to S&W under warranty to find out if the chamber is out of spec. There's a much higher probability that the reloads are out of spec than the chamber being out of spec.
 
Do the bullets look like they got into the rifling? If not who ever reloaded it probably didn't full length size the cases.
 
The bullets look like they got in the rifling, though there is some copper marks on the feed ramps. From what I've seen I believe the ammo to be "in spec" just different from the "whisper" loading as mentioned by hopalong.
 
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