Is there any way to protect the gun from holster wear? Obviously you cant eliminate it but just minimizing it would be OK. I just bought a very expensive pistol and while I wont carry it every day I will use it for competition and want to keep the finish as scratch free and wear free as possible.
Protecting Gun From Holster Wear
- Thread starter The Rabbi
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Coltdriver
Member
Get a suede lined holster.
Only use it at the range.
Get a second gun, keep it in the safe
Only use it at the range.
Get a second gun, keep it in the safe
Black Majik
Member
Masking tape along the contact points.
It would help to know what handgun and what kind of finish (blued, plated, stainless, etc?)
If you use it (meaning drawing it out of the holster) you are going to get wear on the sharp edges of the slide (pistol) or cylinder and barrel (revolver). The only way I know of to reduce this is to carry it in a case, not holster, draw it the fewest time possible, only shoot it at a range, and/or put it in the safe and keep it there.
I have some safe queens, but my users all show (honorable) wear. Some of them show a lot of it. I have at times avoided having an emotional upset by buying previously finish-worn guns that were mechanically perfect - or I soon made them that way. Saved a lot of money too ...
A perfect finish is a prideful thing, but it doesn't make the gun shoot any better ...
If you use it (meaning drawing it out of the holster) you are going to get wear on the sharp edges of the slide (pistol) or cylinder and barrel (revolver). The only way I know of to reduce this is to carry it in a case, not holster, draw it the fewest time possible, only shoot it at a range, and/or put it in the safe and keep it there.
I have some safe queens, but my users all show (honorable) wear. Some of them show a lot of it. I have at times avoided having an emotional upset by buying previously finish-worn guns that were mechanically perfect - or I soon made them that way. Saved a lot of money too ...
A perfect finish is a prideful thing, but it doesn't make the gun shoot any better ...
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
I've found it helps to wipe down my carry guns with silicone-impregnated cloths on a regular and frequent basis: you simultaneously removed dust, dirt, and grit, and apply a thin layer of lubricant and rust preventive.
neoncowboy
Member
I was at a tactical pistol class last weekend.
The instructor pulled out his Glock and said 'it's a tool', then threw it downrange into the sand and gravel.
Then he did the same thing with his AR (with optical reflex sight and surefire grip).
I wouldn't throw my gun into gravel to make that point (since that's unnecessary), but the holster and range wear on my gun make me proud. They say to me that I am an accomplished shooter...not a gun museum curator.
It's a tool. Tools are for using. Tools that are used show wear.
The instructor pulled out his Glock and said 'it's a tool', then threw it downrange into the sand and gravel.
Then he did the same thing with his AR (with optical reflex sight and surefire grip).
I wouldn't throw my gun into gravel to make that point (since that's unnecessary), but the holster and range wear on my gun make me proud. They say to me that I am an accomplished shooter...not a gun museum curator.
It's a tool. Tools are for using. Tools that are used show wear.
Lawyerman
Member
Once you've seen Clint Smith take a $6,000 Les Baer presentation grade Thunder Ranch special and execute an emergency load by slapping the slide up against a crusty 2x4 and racking it, you get over things like finish wear!
ezypikns
Member
An honest question. A few good answers.
I may be wrong, but it seems that I read that Kydex may be less abrasive than leather. I also know that Tucker Gunleather sells a lining that they claim is kind to finishes. I assume you mean a blued finish.
I may be wrong, but it seems that I read that Kydex may be less abrasive than leather. I also know that Tucker Gunleather sells a lining that they claim is kind to finishes. I assume you mean a blued finish.
You can go to a lined holster, but in the long run if you use it, in terms of frequently drawing it from the holster the sharp edges will be burnished.
If you are careful, sometime in the future if it becomes more worn then you like, the blue can be removed with a chemical and the metal lightly polished and then reblued. Thereafter it will look like new. Usually the problem in rebluing a gun is that there are marks and dings that have to be polished out, and this degrades the sharp edges. Chemical stripping will avoid this.
If you are careful, sometime in the future if it becomes more worn then you like, the blue can be removed with a chemical and the metal lightly polished and then reblued. Thereafter it will look like new. Usually the problem in rebluing a gun is that there are marks and dings that have to be polished out, and this degrades the sharp edges. Chemical stripping will avoid this.
Zach S
Member
When I got my tommygun, I felt the same as you do.
The more I shot it, the less I worried.
The more I shot it, the less I worried.
PCRCCW
Member
I think there are alot of misconceptions about holster wear and materials.
Every holster material will wear Any gun finish over time and with use.
Suede linings collect dust and debris and mixed with the oils that it absorbs from your firearm can actually accelerate wear due to the oils/suede trapping the abrasives.
Smooth in/Rough out holsters will decrease wear as there is nothing to collect and hold the abrasives. Horsehide is even better for this as its a less porous material than Cowhide.
Hand molded, not just pressed, holsters will have a smoother finish on the inside and cause less wear initially.
Kydex will be the worst on certain contact points of the gun, points of retention and corners.
A stainless gun is the best because it just gets polished with time and use in a leather holster.
There is no magic solution, lining, material or finish that will eliminate holster wear on a gun.
Shoot well...............................
Every holster material will wear Any gun finish over time and with use.
Suede linings collect dust and debris and mixed with the oils that it absorbs from your firearm can actually accelerate wear due to the oils/suede trapping the abrasives.
Smooth in/Rough out holsters will decrease wear as there is nothing to collect and hold the abrasives. Horsehide is even better for this as its a less porous material than Cowhide.
Hand molded, not just pressed, holsters will have a smoother finish on the inside and cause less wear initially.
Kydex will be the worst on certain contact points of the gun, points of retention and corners.
A stainless gun is the best because it just gets polished with time and use in a leather holster.
There is no magic solution, lining, material or finish that will eliminate holster wear on a gun.
Shoot well...............................
PCRCCW
Member
Anything you put on the gun will come off in the holster and will catch and hold abrasives......in time causing more wear than not doing anything.
Use a good Smooth in/Rough out holster and keep you weapon clean and dry.
Shoot well.............
Use a good Smooth in/Rough out holster and keep you weapon clean and dry.
Shoot well.............
Rabbi:
Wax will provide protection against corrosion, if the coating isn't worn off. It may help you a bit in reducing wear, but the natural rubbing that causes holster wear will also get through the wax before long.
On conventional steels probably the best bet is hard chrome, but I don't know that I would like it on a competition gun.
As you may know, men used to use leather belts to "strop" or home their razors years ago, The purpose of the leather was to polish the blade for a sharper cutting edge. To a lesser degree you get the same thing when you pull a gun in and out of a hoslter. The coating left by modern blueing is relatively soft - in fact much softer the the metal underneith it. The good news is that it's relative easy to do over when the time comes that you think it should be done.
Wax will provide protection against corrosion, if the coating isn't worn off. It may help you a bit in reducing wear, but the natural rubbing that causes holster wear will also get through the wax before long.
On conventional steels probably the best bet is hard chrome, but I don't know that I would like it on a competition gun.
As you may know, men used to use leather belts to "strop" or home their razors years ago, The purpose of the leather was to polish the blade for a sharper cutting edge. To a lesser degree you get the same thing when you pull a gun in and out of a hoslter. The coating left by modern blueing is relatively soft - in fact much softer the the metal underneith it. The good news is that it's relative easy to do over when the time comes that you think it should be done.
The Dutchman
Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2005
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Does anyone know how the HK USP with the Hostile Environment finish hold up to holster wear?
Regardless of material or lining, a properly fitted holster will wear the finish less than a poorly fitted model, for it will eliminate the gun moving within the holster and thus burnishing the finish on the contact surfaces. If you do need to holster it, take a look at the holster design and note the contact points, for that is where your primary finish wear will occur, and decide if that would be acceptable.
Sir Aardvark
Member
About the only thing that I can think of that will come the closest to ELIMINATING holster wear is hard chrome plate, such as that which is offered by Tripp Research, Inc.
http://www.trippresearch.com/indexii.htm
Of course, there are the purists out there who do not want to have their blued guns refinished (or people who do not want to throw down a huge wad of cash for the service), so a well fitting holster, as already suggested, is about the only thing you can do to help minimize holster wear.
I try to purchase all of my firearms in Stainless Steel, when available, due to the fact that they are a little bit more robust in their wear characteristics and maintenance needs.
http://www.trippresearch.com/indexii.htm
Of course, there are the purists out there who do not want to have their blued guns refinished (or people who do not want to throw down a huge wad of cash for the service), so a well fitting holster, as already suggested, is about the only thing you can do to help minimize holster wear.
I try to purchase all of my firearms in Stainless Steel, when available, due to the fact that they are a little bit more robust in their wear characteristics and maintenance needs.
1911.45
Member
Rabbi:
I have four 1911s that have been hard-chromed, and they seem highly resistive if not impervious to holster wear. Additionally, hard-chrome seems to resist scratching better than stainless steel, and I have even had two stainless pistols hard-chromed.
However, while they are beautiful pistols, and I carry them regularly, I would not carry, let's say, a polished blue Python. If I had a beautifully blued pistol and wanted to completely avoid holster wear, I would not holster the pistol.
I have a friend who CCW but brings his polished blue Python to the range practically in a baby's blanket. We Ooh and Aah, blast some magnums downrange, then carefully wrap the Python in the blanket for the trip home. I am careful with my little children (real children, ages two and three, not 1911s) but feel that I am just about tossing them in their car seats when I consider the handling of the Python.
If you find that your pistol wears prematurely (and I think that muzzle wear is inevitable for a blued or painted pistol), you might want to consider hard-chrome. I have used Tripp, Metaloy and Metalife with outstanding results. All three shops are staffed by highly experienced gunsmiths, so your pistol should be returned properly assembled and in top notch condition.
Best luck.
I have four 1911s that have been hard-chromed, and they seem highly resistive if not impervious to holster wear. Additionally, hard-chrome seems to resist scratching better than stainless steel, and I have even had two stainless pistols hard-chromed.
However, while they are beautiful pistols, and I carry them regularly, I would not carry, let's say, a polished blue Python. If I had a beautifully blued pistol and wanted to completely avoid holster wear, I would not holster the pistol.
I have a friend who CCW but brings his polished blue Python to the range practically in a baby's blanket. We Ooh and Aah, blast some magnums downrange, then carefully wrap the Python in the blanket for the trip home. I am careful with my little children (real children, ages two and three, not 1911s) but feel that I am just about tossing them in their car seats when I consider the handling of the Python.
If you find that your pistol wears prematurely (and I think that muzzle wear is inevitable for a blued or painted pistol), you might want to consider hard-chrome. I have used Tripp, Metaloy and Metalife with outstanding results. All three shops are staffed by highly experienced gunsmiths, so your pistol should be returned properly assembled and in top notch condition.
Best luck.
dairycreek
Member
There is really no way to eliminate holster wear completely. It is just part of the whole scene. But to minimize holster wear keep them as clean as you possibly can. Particularly, the shaft of the holster. If your holster is leather use a very good grade of leather cleaner and clean the holster well and often. If your holster is kydex use any good cleaner suitable for plastic (I use windex) and make sure that the holster is rinsed so as to not leave cleaner residue.
Your holsters will last longer, function better, and gun wear will be reduced but not entirely eliminated.
Your holsters will last longer, function better, and gun wear will be reduced but not entirely eliminated.
I'd call one of the top-shelf holster makers (i.e., Milt Sparks, Alessi, Galco, etc.) and ask for a recommendation on a fitted holster for a S&W 952. The only way that I know for sure to avoid finish wear on a blued 952 is to trade it off for a stainless version.
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