I put a Korean war (confirmed used) M1 on layaway today paid 675 Its in good shape other than the furniture on it is a bit ruff. I couldn't be more pleased though. I am also wondering if I paid to much, looks like all matching numbers wasn't able to check the trigger assembly but it looks very clean no signs of rust that I can tell. I'll post pictures as soon as I pick it up.
Put my first M1 Garand on layaway Today.
- Thread starter Norom
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Tim the student
Member
With limited information, it sounds like a pretty good price. But, I'm a believer in the CMP, and I probably would have gone with one of their rifles.
How is it "confirmed"?
I bet that stock will clean up nicely for you.
Got pics? I always like to see pics of M1s.
ETA: Congrats on the M1 - I'm sure you will like it quite a bit once you take it home and shoot it. BTW, you know about the ammo for them, right?
How is it "confirmed"?
I bet that stock will clean up nicely for you.
Got pics? I always like to see pics of M1s.
ETA: Congrats on the M1 - I'm sure you will like it quite a bit once you take it home and shoot it. BTW, you know about the ammo for them, right?
No pics as of now, but this was sold to the shop I'm buying it from by a widower that said her husband used this rifle in the war. I was looking at CMP and I was so close to getting one from there but just the history of this one had me sold.
Murphy4570
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Buying a rifle, or buying a story, are we?
Verify, verify, verify.
Darn good rifle, regardless. Congrats.
Verify, verify, verify.
Darn good rifle, regardless. Congrats.
P-32
Member
It scares me when someone says this about a M1. The numbers on the parts of a M1 are drawing numbers which can tell you if the part was made in what time frame.
I agree, the CMP is the only way. But like already said. still a great rifle.
murdoc rose
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- 582
if it shoots that's not a terrible price. the story as others have said is nothing without papers and sometimes those are even worthless. What are the numbers on it and are there any Identifying markings that you wrote down/remember.
So what exactly should I look for I fell as though now I'm making a mistake. Can you guys give me some pointers on what exactly should I do to verify I'm getting a good rifle.
On the CMP subject I could care less about the "widows" story I like how the rifle looks aged and can tell its been through a few things. I like the curiosity that follows used weapons like this one.
On the CMP subject I could care less about the "widows" story I like how the rifle looks aged and can tell its been through a few things. I like the curiosity that follows used weapons like this one.
Tim the student
Member
Good question, and hard to answer without writing 5000 words. Off the top of my head...
Mechanically, look for these things:
You should not see any welds, or cracks on any parts. Some Garands were cut and half, and then welded back together by importers. Some were done well, but if you see that, run away and go get a rifle from the CMP for cheaper.
The bore should be in good shape, including the muzzle and the throat. There are gauges that measure the wear. I wouldn't buy them, but there is a chance the shop may have them. Failing that, you can also use an M2 bullet to check the wear of the muzzle. You don't want it swallowing the whole bullet.
The oprod should have a very slight curve to it. Not straight, and not a drastic bend. It should pass the tilt test. Google it.
No springs should be broken.
No crack in the stock. The stock should be a good tight fit. (The trigger guard I mean.)
No pitting of the metal.
The sights adjust ok.
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things. Search Jouster, the CMP forums, or here for other stuff.
For collectability:
Remember that "matching numbers" doesn't mean anything for a shooter gun. (But I'll not do any business with a gun store that tries to mislead people by saying things like an M1 has "matching numbers" unless every damn thing on that rifle is how it came from the manufacturer.)
Completely disregard the story he told you, unless he has paperwork to back it up. If he does, eye the paperwork with suspicion. What SN is the rifle anyway? If you tell us that, we can tell if there even was a chance he is telling the truth.
Look at all the numbers you see everywhere. Write them down. Then take those numbers and see if they are what should be on your rifle. Order "The M1 Garand, Serial Numbers and Data Sheets". Alternately, verify them here. Someone will likely tell you if the parts should be original to the gun.
If you don't want to do all that, use the SN to look up the date the gun was made. Then look at the barrel and see if they match. (Even if they don't match, it could still have been rebarreled by armorers.) Look at the bolt. Does it say SA on it? Other parts you can easily see?
Glad to see you changed your mind after writing:
Buy the gun, not the story. A beat up gun doesn't mean it ever saw combat. It just means that it got beat up somehow.
Mechanically, look for these things:
You should not see any welds, or cracks on any parts. Some Garands were cut and half, and then welded back together by importers. Some were done well, but if you see that, run away and go get a rifle from the CMP for cheaper.
The bore should be in good shape, including the muzzle and the throat. There are gauges that measure the wear. I wouldn't buy them, but there is a chance the shop may have them. Failing that, you can also use an M2 bullet to check the wear of the muzzle. You don't want it swallowing the whole bullet.
The oprod should have a very slight curve to it. Not straight, and not a drastic bend. It should pass the tilt test. Google it.
No springs should be broken.
No crack in the stock. The stock should be a good tight fit. (The trigger guard I mean.)
No pitting of the metal.
The sights adjust ok.
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things. Search Jouster, the CMP forums, or here for other stuff.
For collectability:
Remember that "matching numbers" doesn't mean anything for a shooter gun. (But I'll not do any business with a gun store that tries to mislead people by saying things like an M1 has "matching numbers" unless every damn thing on that rifle is how it came from the manufacturer.)
Completely disregard the story he told you, unless he has paperwork to back it up. If he does, eye the paperwork with suspicion. What SN is the rifle anyway? If you tell us that, we can tell if there even was a chance he is telling the truth.
Look at all the numbers you see everywhere. Write them down. Then take those numbers and see if they are what should be on your rifle. Order "The M1 Garand, Serial Numbers and Data Sheets". Alternately, verify them here. Someone will likely tell you if the parts should be original to the gun.
If you don't want to do all that, use the SN to look up the date the gun was made. Then look at the barrel and see if they match. (Even if they don't match, it could still have been rebarreled by armorers.) Look at the bolt. Does it say SA on it? Other parts you can easily see?
Glad to see you changed your mind after writing:
Buy the gun, not the story. A beat up gun doesn't mean it ever saw combat. It just means that it got beat up somehow.
Ford Prefect
Member
How could a soldier "keep" his rifle? He can't. The story sounds like BS. Which would make me not believe anything else from that dealer.
Buy from CMP! Service grade would cost less than the OP and the CMP papers are the best proof of authenticity.
Buy from CMP! Service grade would cost less than the OP and the CMP papers are the best proof of authenticity.
i heard a story of an officer who picked up an M1 Garand on the beaches of Normandy, carried it thru the rest of the war, and was able to take it home. it wasnt issued to him, so there was no record of him having it. im sure that being an officer had a little to do with it, but he did manage to bring an M1 home.
skidooman603
Member
Just about every Garand I've ever seen at a pawn shop or gun show had a BS story to go with it. I was at a gunshow and the dealer showed me all the little pock marks in the stock from "someone" seating cartridges in the enbloc against the stock. He said" every on of those little holes was from a Nazi the man carrying this rifle killed. That's how they kept track of their kills" Really..wow that guy was a hell of a fighter. Garands aren't like Mausers as far as matching numbers per se. If the parts all are of the same manufacturer...which they probably won't be, then you have to check "those numbers" for time period production correctness. Quite a process. Really though, unless it is a dog with a sewer pipe barrel, you didn't get hurt..
skidooman603
Member
Many did..still wasn't authorized. I bought a rifle from a widow whose husband sent an M1 back to the US a piece at a time...
MutinousDoug
Member
The barrel is a post Korean replacement.
skidooman603
Member
Yes a 55 bbl but anyone else know mfg? Looks like a Dane BBL maybe..2.6 rec should make it late ww2 I think. The bbl a bit of a stumper Ive seen that AY mark somewhere. Nice striping in stock..looks OK for the price.
Well thank you for the help also wondering does that change the value? Do you guys see anything wrong with it as far as pictures go. Also looks like everything I've said was misinformed I feel stupid but thank you guys for helping. :banghead:
MutinousDoug
Member
Your rifle is not "correct". It may be that the previous owner shot out the barrel of his "WWII" bring back gun in competition and had the barrel replaced by a competent gunsmith who replaced all the parts supplied him. On the other hand, if an armory rebuilt this receiver prior to the Korean war and it was subsequently issued to the previous owner, little or no parts are likely to be "original" to the receiver after a barrel replacement.
Your receiver is "about" March, 1944 date.
Your pictures of the rifle do nothing to increase interest in the weapon due to their lack of clarity (lack of detail) although the stock figure might be intriguing. I am not familiar with the barrel markings (but that's no game stopper) If it were my $675 I would ask the seller to dis-assemble the rifle for inspection before purchase. I'd not pay the $675 based on your pictures and description.
On the open market, the gun is worth $675 if a buyer is willing to pay that after handling and/or firing it ( or seeing internet pictures?).
Your receiver is "about" March, 1944 date.
Your pictures of the rifle do nothing to increase interest in the weapon due to their lack of clarity (lack of detail) although the stock figure might be intriguing. I am not familiar with the barrel markings (but that's no game stopper) If it were my $675 I would ask the seller to dis-assemble the rifle for inspection before purchase. I'd not pay the $675 based on your pictures and description.
On the open market, the gun is worth $675 if a buyer is willing to pay that after handling and/or firing it ( or seeing internet pictures?).
Ford Prefect
Member
$625 for a service grade Garand with papers. Mailed to your home.
http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/m1garand.htm
http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/m1garand.htm
As long as the rifle functions correctly, and doesn't have excessive muzzle or throat erosion, I think you did OK for a shooter. You should have no problem getting your $675 back out of it if you decided to sell it later. I don't know about other areas of the country, but around here you just don't find Garands for under $800 in the condition shown. I agree with the other posters though, the CMP is really the way to go if you are willing to do a little legwork, and don't mind the wait.
I've handled the gun in person and there are a few more popping up around town at pawn shops and other gun shops but this one seems the best as far as price and condition. There's one that has been refinished for 800 and that's kind of the standard around here sadly. Thank you for the CMP suggestion but no thanks maybe my next M1
P-32
Member
Found this on another forum.
I have a Dan barrel which is a VAR. The VAR barrel will have a sideways VAR and then crown on the left side of the manf. date going left to right.
Going back to the Ferro Machine Corp. It appears they did make M1 Carbine barrels, but I could not pin down a Garand barrel. Interesting.
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chris in va
Member
Hey, you know what...maybe you paid a bit more than usual, but regardless the Garand is an amazing rifle and any doubts will disappear once you start firing it.
Heck mine is a 'field grade' from the CMP that cost me $500, and while the wood is quite rough the mechanicals are solid and I get great enjoyment having the new generation try out a piece of history. The 'ping' gets them every time!
Heck mine is a 'field grade' from the CMP that cost me $500, and while the wood is quite rough the mechanicals are solid and I get great enjoyment having the new generation try out a piece of history. The 'ping' gets them every time!
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