I put one of the TAPCO T-28 scopes on an airsoft gun some months back. Because it was cheap enough for that duty and I had the extra cash. Also been on real guns, but airsoft means I've gotten it rained on, dropped it, used it for 8 hours at a time etc. Seems to be as sturdy as any chinese crap thing is gonna be. Very bright optics. No overt glare, etc. so the coatings seem to work as advertized. Also doesn't seem to accumulate rain, like the way the B&L rainguard does or something. I haven't done a controlled test, but last weekend it was misting like all day, and never did the lenses get wet. No idea why.
Illumination is not quite bright enough to BAC in daylight, which was my original hope, but its pretty nice. Works indoors, etc. where ranges are close enough the parallax issues are moot anyway. Works well at dusk and so on, and has enough adjustment for work in total darkness. I have no NODs (if I did, I wouldn't buy $99 riflescopes). The first half of the brightness range is pretty much useless, so swing straight past it. Reticle on mine is flawed. Seems to be etched in glass, but the template was screwed up on my day. Not a lot, but a fuzzy bit or two, and this extra line sorta thing. Not hard to shoot with.
No idea what any of the lines mean. I presume they subtend to something or other, but no instruction as to what, and I am dedicated enough to mildot for more serious work to bother drawing lines on paper and doing the math.
Mostly made of soft metals. Aluminum, zinc, etc. Exposed circuit boards, so presumably will go tits up sometime when I drop it in a creek or stand in the rain too long. I guess there is an O-ring though. Solid click for off. Don't expect to remove the light source much, as its very tight.
The STANAG is unusable directly off most guns. Get a cheap (I paid like $12) STANAG to Pic rail converter and then you can mount it anywhere. The built-in rails are so low you will probably need the riser anyway. If you had money to burn you could get a throw lever rail to rail converter.
I put it onto an ARMS mount on a FAL with no trouble (pic rail, pricey but the only way to go). Height worked okay. Not unreasonably tall. Did NOT work on the HK/Swan throw lever base. Includes STANAG components, but the rear tail of the scope rail thingy bumps into the rear sight cylinder. Seems that it would do this even if you cut some off, so I can't tell what that's about, however.
Includes two pairs of screws, one longer than the other. STANAG mounts slight tightly into grooves, but are then screwed down from underneath. You all knew that, right? If you have a funny mount, like the wobbly, stringing-ass FN STANAG cover, you will need a right angle screwdriver, but they even include that. Believe it, its angle driver, not a stub of extra metal that just fell into the box. Use a GOOD screwdriver and be careful. The screws look soft also and have shallow notches.
The rubber covers work great. Never had one open in transit or close in action. They are tight, but I spun mine to my 4:00 position, so they hang open. Brightness is on the left, hence, they open right. You might have ejection problems with this depending on your mounting, so visualize before your bolt carrier eats one.
Worth $99.
