Question about 22-250 OAL .150” extra too much?

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RAGGED

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I recently picked up an OAL gauge to play with and found in both my 22-250’s that the bullets don’t encounter the riffling till an OAL of 2.500” is reached (2.510 in my Savage 12 varmint 2.500 in my Remington 700 varmint) I know its debatable but from what I’ve been told and read it seems like something like .010-.020” off the rifling is desirable, the problem I’m finding is such measurements demand a COL much larger then the ones listed in the books, a little larger I could understand but for example the recommended COL for a 22-250 with a 52 grain AMAX is 2.350”, my rifles want 2.490” or so (assuming .010 off rifling) I’ve made some dummy rounds at the 2.490” length and they chamber perfect, no harder to close the bolt then with a 2.350” OAL, also after ejecting there is absolutely no signs the bullets are touching the rifling.

So my question is does this sound right, is it possible to have a proper COL that far off book specs, also what is the recommended length needed for a good crimp, these 2.490” rounds are noticeable longer, I measure about .200” of bullet inside the case and about .070” is sub diameter due to the boattail leaving just .130” of full diameter in the case neck, due to the rate of twist I’m unable to go much larger(longer) then 60 grains, would love to be able to run the 75 grain AMAX’s that I toss in the AR from time to time.

Any confirmation on this being ok and normal would be much appreciated, I think I’ve thought this out but would rather toss it bye some folks that have been doing this a bit longer, thanks again for any help!
 
I have a CZ in .204 Ruger. If you seat to .020 off with 32's, there isn't even close to enough shank of the bullet left to hold in the neck.

I have a .25-06 that is the same way with about all bullets I've tried.

Most if not all Weatherby's jump about .250 IIRC.

It may be hard to tell if you're getting contact with the bolt. You can mark the bullet with lipstick, a sharpie, crayon, etc and be able to more easily see the rifling if it does make contact. If it's getting pushed into the lands very hard, I've had the bullet pull out and stay in the barrel. This is particularly true if there's very little of the neck grabbing it.
 
Do you happen to know how much shank is recommended be in the case, I guess I've read a few reloading books front to back and never saw the stats for that, it would be nice to have less jump but seems like it is not possible to get anywhere near the rifling and been in spec.
 
Yea, about all the rifle makers are going to extra-long throats to make pressure problems very hard to accomplish.

It won't hurt a thing to seat longer the book data, but in many cases, you can't, and still have one bullet diameter minimum, left inside the case for proper neck tension.

rc
 
Yea, about all the rifle makers are going to extra-long throats to make pressure problems very hard to accomplish.

It won't hurt a thing to seat longer the book data, but in many cases, you can't, and still have one bullet diameter minimum, left inside the case for proper neck tension.

rc

Well the extra long throat seems to be the case in both my rifles, they are both pretty new, any idea how a .150" “jump” effects accuracy? Does anyone know if the throat in the Savage Long Range Precision. Varminter is extra long as well? I've been thinking of getting one of those in 6mm to tinker with, I figure it would be a worthy candidate for trying to perfect the art of precision hand loading/developing.


When you say one bullet diameter minimum I assume you mean .22 left inside the case for a .22 caliber bullet ect, I'm also assuming any length in the boat tail sub-diameter area would not count towards that length rule correct? Thank you so much for the help, I can honestly say I had no idea about this rule, I assumed there had to be some spec for this but for the life of me never saw it covered in the manuals I have read, looks like I came to the right place!
 
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