Question about components.

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ChaoSS

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I've tried searching a bit with not much luck, so can someone give me the quick rundown on this stuff?

I'd like to start reloading, someday, but simply don't have the space for it right now. I'm also trying to figure out a few rifle purchases for the future.

So, I'd like to buy a bolt gun, probably a savage, and I was thinking 30-06 but also considering .308. I'd also like to be able to reload 7.62 x 54 for a Mosin Nagant. I'd also like to be able to reload 7.62 x 39 for an AK. I don't currently have any of these firearms, but I'm trying to weigh all of the facts first.

Do any, or all, of these rounds share components? I know the brass is different. From what I understand the primers are all the same? What about bullets? If the bullets are different does that mean that I'd need more equipment for loading the ammo? I'd like to have an idea of all this before I start buying the guns.
 
The .30-06 (or .308) and Nagant can use the same powder and primers (if you get boxer primed x54R brass). But they won't use the same bullets very well unless you find a Nagant with .308 bore rather than the typical .311-.312 Russian bore. An AK in x39 could use the same bullets as the Nagant but then you're either using a light-for-caliber bullet in the Nagant or a heavy-for-caliber bullet in the AK, not a terrible thing but not ideal either. x39 most likely wont use the same powder as it tends to work best with "fast" rifle powders while the others work best with "mid to slow" rifle powders. Then you'll need a different set of dies for each caliber. You'll also need different shellholders/shellplate a for each caliber.

Personally I wouldn't reload for the AK or Nagant unless your only goal is to make the most accurate ammo possible for them. If you want cheap plinking ammo find some mil-surp ammo for the Mosin and some Tula/Bear/Wolf ammo for the AK. AK's can be very hard on brass and x39 BRASS isn't something you run into a lot for a cheap price. I reload for my Nagant but only for good, and cheap, hunting ammo. Any modern .30-06 will probably be worth reloading for. You can find mil-surp .30-06 ammo but its not near as cheap as mil-surp ammo for the other rifles. And if done right your reloads will be more accurate than any off the shelf .30-06 ammo.
 
In other words, don't worry about it, at least, don't let that be part of my decision. Got it. It'll probably be awhile before I can reload anyway, as i don't have a garage at the moment, and I don't think setting up a reloading bench in the bedroom is the best idea. :p
 
30-06 and 308 Winchester use the same diameter bullets, .308" in diameter. Both use Large Rifle Primers and many powders can be used in either with the appropriate loading data for each cartridge.

7.62x54R and 7.62x39 use a different diameter bullet than the 30-06 and 308 Winchester.

I believe the Russians rounds use the same diameter bullet, around .311" diameter if I remember correctly. Generally, the 7.62x39 is loaded with lighter bullets than the 7.62x54R but the lighter bullets could be loaded in the larger round with the appropriate data.

The 7.62x54R could use more powders in common with the American cartridges but the smaller case capacity of the 7.62x39 would reduce or eliminate any powder commonality.

Here is a link to Hodgdon's reloading data sight, you can look through it for the various cartridges and see what powders they use.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Hope this helps.
 
...I don't think setting up a reloading bench in the bedroom is the best idea.
Click to expand...

Why not? I have my bench in a spare bedroom, and I do the tumbling and media separation in the garage and outdoors, respectively (to minimize noise in the house and lead exposure from spent primer dust.)

In smaller houses, I've seen reloading benches built into a closet, so that all that (unsightly) equipment isn't exposed to view.

Unless the garage is air-conditioned, reloading indoors is, IMO, much better than reloading in a garage... :)
 
I don't have a garage. I don't want to be dealing with having to bring stuff inside that has a long of lead dust, or other chemicals on it, and bringing into our bedroom, in a house with young kids. Maybe soon I'll get a bigger shed in the backyard where I can store more stuff, but right now, I'm pretty limited on what I can have.


And I'm going to be honest, I don't know anything about the process of reloading, other than the basics, and nothing really about how each step is done, or what kind of mess it makes. Maybe I'm wrong about what risks there are to having stuff in the house. One of the things I want to do soon is start looking into some books on the subject, so I'm not going into it blind. For now though, I'm more focused on spending money on the guns I want and need, and some ammo (since, conveniently, that comes with brass I can reload later). :cool:
 
Since you are starting will little to no knowledge about reloading I suggest you buy or get from the library the current edition of the ABC's or Reloading. That will help you a lot.

I have a friend who reloads in a very small room. He has his press mounted on a rolling food tray, you know, like the ones in the hospital they roll up to your bed to serve you meals. He built a shelf under the tray for additional storage of dies and tools and rolls it in and out of his closet when he wants to reload. You don't need a lot of room to reload if you keep it simple.
 
..bring stuff inside that has a long of lead dust, or other chemicals on it, and bringing into our bedroom, in a house with young kids..
Click to expand...

The stuff isn't plutonium. Or friable asbestos fibers.

The process which creates lead styphnate dust is tumbling, and the worst exposure is during media separation. Do it outdoors, wear rubber gloves, and you'll be fine. Throw the rubber gloves away before handling anything in the garage or inside the house. (I find this is easier than hand washing, but some do just fine with hand washing instead of gloves.)

Any residual dust in the cases isn't going anywhere, unless you decide to blow them out with compressed air, indoors. Once the bullet is seated, it is a sealed container.

Think of the lead styphnate dust as both a personal exposure and a "vector" and you will never have an issue with lead. For example, if you set up a shed and don't realize lead dust on your hands is a vector, you can slowly contaminate surfaces inside the house, even though you think you've safely contained your hobby outside.

The rest of the reloading components aren't an airborne chemical hazard, but they are a choking / ingestion hazard. So if they are really young, a closet is a good idea because it can be locked when you're not using it. :)
 
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It is not as hard as some think to reload ammo. You can read a bunch and start to make safe ammo at that point following the directions as stated. Still the best route IMHO is to find a mentor locally that will teach you things that are hard to convey through a book. Like the feel of a primer seating and whether it is OK or not by the feel you both experience---or the feel of a case that is about to stick in the die so you can stop in time to save yourself the grief of removing it with a special tool. Ask around at the range,-- I bet SOMEBODY will be willing to teach you how to do it safely. Most reloaders are like that.:cool:
 
Thanks for all of the information. I may look for someone who knows that they are doing when I can get all the stuff, atm I don't know anyone who reloads. I always figured I could figure it out with a little trial and error with enough reading up on the subject.
 
You can mount a press and some accessories on a small rolling tool chest; this also gives you lockable storage for a limited amount of supplies.

I've used portable stands to mount presses and stored them outdoors in a dehumidified shed, bringing them into the house for reloading sessions. Stands available from Midway.
<http://www.midwayusa.com/product/155024/frankford-arsenal-portable-reloading-stand>
The stand comes with a template for drilling the holes to mount various presses. Not as good as a solid bench but better than nothing.
 
I had my setup in a lockable closet for years. Don't hesitate because of space, when I was single, it was in my bedroom. I have a friend that his is set up in the living room, right next to his fly tying bench. I would read up on it and wait until you purchase your guns before worrying about reloading for them.
 
I started off in a spare bedroom closet when I moved about a year ago. Built a temporary press stand and used it up until about a month ago. Now have a full size bench, not in the closet. You can be a space saver with a little creativity. All of my supplies and components at the time fit into a rolling 10 drawer toolbox and a couple 6 foot shelves.
 
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When i started reloading back in 1999, i mounted my Lee single stage to a 2x6 and laid it across my lap and reloaded. I made do with what i could afford and had room for. I sat in my chair and watched tv and loaded 38/357 by the hundreds.
 
Man, I think I get the point. I've got room. :neener:


No really, though, I appreciate the info. Now it's just the money issue, since I'd rather get some guns first, while I can, and get the reloading stuff next.


Now, if someone cares to chime in about how I can get going with reloading for 50 bucks, I'll be all set.:p
 
While it's possible to start reloading on the cheap, you'll just spend more as time goes on.
So you might as well save up a bit.

Maybe a goal would be $175-$200.
For that you can get a good single stage press kit, brass, powder & primers,
tumbler, media, calipers & a reloading manual.

If you wanna start real cheap - go to the library & borrow a reloading manual.
That you can do for free.
 
I agree with picking up the Lee Classic Loader to begin with. My uncle bought me one of those kits for a Christmas gift a few years ago. Was enough to make your own ammo with a few other purchases of components (cases, primers, powder, bullets). In my opinion, it is a very good way to get a good understanding of the reloading process (in combination with reading books). If you go that route, you may want to add a hand priming tool. That was my first purchase after the Lee kit. Something about seating the primer using a hammer just made me nervous. I never had an issue, but was just not comfortable. Good luck.
 
Ok, this thread is really starting to make me rethink stuff. I thought I was looking at several hundred bucks just to get some stuff that wasn't complete junk. Guess step one is to buy a book (I'd rather buy it, books tend to be good things to keep around.)


Looking at the reviews for that Lee Loader, do I need to buy a new one for each round I want to reload? If I have 3-5 different sizes, does that mean buying one of those for each or can I just buy different dies? Should I just get this for one size, and then once I've got the hang of it, get into something better?

BTW, Hondo said 175-200 bucks, I don't have a problem with that. Probably shouldn't spend that right now, but soon won't be a problem. Would I be better off just getting a better setup and putting the 30 bucks for the Lee Loader into the better set up?



Oh, and by the way, I already have calipers. I do enough work on my motorcycles to need those around. Don't have a scale, but I'm sure that won't break the bank.
 
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I started of on the bar in our dining room (it drove my wife crazy) and used to let the kids help me. I would let my daughter and son deprime and size cases. They would trim once in a while too. When my daughter got older I paid her to trim. They learn trimming sucks fast but she used to make pretty good cash trimming. Now she does her own reloading and shoots on the weekend. Raise your kids around the reloading and guns and answer any questions they have about firearms and reloading and they won't get curious.
 
Would I be better off just getting a better setup and putting the 30 bucks for the Lee Loader into the better set up?
Click to expand...

Yep.

The Lee Loader is a good, minimalist tool. You need one for each caliber. (The only thing which works across calibers is the hammer... :) )

A quality single-stage press isn't much, and one works with all dies. And the dies cost about as much as the Lee Loaders.

The only advantage the Lee Loader offers, IMO, is that the little set doesn't require a bench-mounted tool. Just a firm surface and noise-tolerant bystanders.

But there are dozens of solutions for mounting the press, including a 2x6, c-clamps, and a Black and Decker Workmate.
 
I kinda started out cheap.... Lee Pro 1000 Progressive...... and after all the other stuff I was probobly at at about $300 not including components

Love my Choices... I have 3 Lee pro systems now..... I almost got the lee Classic, which would be a great option also

After reading and reading... iof ya think Ya will like it.. dont go cheap... worst case ya can get 80% outa what ya buy anyways... if its Good Stuff


Go for it and Dont look back.... its a lot of fun and enjoyment
 
BTW, Hondo said 175-200 bucks, I don't have a problem with that. Probably shouldn't spend that right now, but soon won't be a problem. Would I be better off just getting a better setup and putting the 30 bucks for the Lee Loader into the better set up?
Click to expand...

YES. :D

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121744/lee-challenger-breech-lock-single-stage-press-kit

Here's one kit.
The powder measure & scale are not the best, but they'll do until you can afford better.
And even if you eventually upgrade to a progressive press, you'll always find uses for the single stage.
 
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