Question about Hawkbills, H1, and serrations, and keychain knives

[Spec ops Grunt]

So I got my first Spyderco Knife recently, a plainedge Native.

Now, I love this knife, but its primary duty is box opening, so I'm thinking about something with a bit more bite to it when it comes to cardboard.

I've been looking at my new Spydie catalog, and I know that cardboard would be better cut by a serrated blade, but what about a hawkbill blade? Would they be the ultimate in box opening technology. I really like the Salt offerings, I'm intrigued by the steel and I like the Yellow handle. What are the drawbacks of H1?

Last thing, I have a Victorinox classic attached to a trit glow rod and a mini led on my keychain, I kinda want to add a bottle opener or get a stronger blade on there, so Should I get a Midnite Minichamp or Rambler to replace the classic and flashlight, or ditch the classic and replace it with a Spyderco Ladybug of some sort and a Gerber Shard and keep the flashlight?

TLR, spend my money for me

PS. This is you guy's fault.

 

[whetrock]

If you're referring to the Spyderco Ladybug in H1 I've got one on my keychain if your interested in H1 there is something you need to understand first due to the incredibly low carbon content and high nitrogen content of this steel their realy isn't a heat treat process for this blade steel instead it is "work hardened" or hardened by stock removal and grinding so the serrated edge is going to be at a higher hardness than the plain edge and hold a better edge so in this case with this steel I'd opt for the serrated edge over the plain edge also the hawkbill blade would probably be a bit more practical doing the task you described.

 

[Yo Mama]

I'd actually prefer a cheap box cutter than using my good knives. Not to say not to buy another knife however.

H1 has been virtually impossible to rust, edge retention suffers but only minor. Most folks are saying it's good for EDC.

Glad you like your Native, I love mine. If you're looking at a utility the hawkbill may limit you to pull cutting only.

Last thing, I have a Victorinox classic attached to a trit glow rod and a mini led on my keychain, I kinda want to add a bottle opener or get a stronger blade on there, so Should I get a Midnite Minichamp or Rambler to replace the classic and flashlight

Leatherman squirt get's you bottle opener, and a tiny blade, plus file, pliers, wire cutters, scissors, small screwdriver. Flashlight-streamlight nano all the way. This is only for keychains. Check out EDC forum that has a keychain picture thread that's 300 pages long and you'll get alot of ideas.

 

[CWL]

I've used a Spydie Tasman Salt with Yellow FRN scales in my office for prolly 2 years. Because of the color, nobody bats an eye and the ladies now come to me to borrow "that yellow knife" if they need to open a box. It has opened & taken down hundreds if not a thousand international shipping boxes over the years.

I have also taken it out for backpack trips where I'm generally careless with the blade getting wet as H1 will not corrode (in water at least).

Boxes will dull the blade, but I have not found the blade too difficult to sharpen as I use my Sharpmaker to get it back to hair popping sharpness using the fine stone. H1 is supposedly a "tool hardened" steel that will get harder with more use (friction causing the crystaline structure to re-align...) with hardness of RC 63-65... I don't know or really care how hard the edge is but I have not observed any difficulties in care, use or maintenance.

Overall, I am quite happy with H1 steel, the hawkbill shape and Spyderco products in general.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Not a big leatherman fan, anyone have any experience with the victorinox knives with flashlights.

 

[conw]

Check out my youtube review linked on page 2 of this NFW forum I believe. You may have already seen it though. If so, you know I'd say go for the shard + ladybug. A photon on the ladybug and you're all set. I prefer pocket carry for the spydie though.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Maybe I mistyped, what about spyderco's full size hawkbills?

As for keychain knives, I've been thinking about a Midnite minichamp, Midnite rambler, or some variation of a ladybug + shard and minilite.

That being said, I welcome discussion on the merits of Spydercos various tiny knives.

 

[conw]

Honestly if you're just cutting cardboard I don't see how you can beat the hawkbill ladybug salt. If you want something a little bigger and more versatile, go for it, but as I've said elsewhere I have yet to find any daily chore that can't be done by a ladybug. For me that is. And most of the time if I need a larger knife (for anything other than food prep - different category altogether, that) I might as well just grab a different tool. The only time personally I see a big knife being useful is a compromise like a camp knife that does many things, none great. Space saver.


That is aside from self defense. I think a 3-4" blade is adequate for realistic self defense though and prefer fixed, with a slight hawkbill curvature (disciple, clinch pick, pkal, etc), and this is just a specialized SD tool.

If you are looking for something versatile and good for self-defense too with a lot of cutting power I hear good things about Janich's (vis-a-vis spyderco) ronin and yojimbo. He also has some designs for cheaper, similar though, with Blackhawk. They are wharncliffe type blades. Not serrated though and probably not really relevant to this discussion.

 

[RX-178]

I have both the Endura 4 and the Spyderhawk (the big one in the Salt family at the time).

They have identical grip sizes, but that H1 steel must be pretty pricey, because both knives cost the same amount, but the Spyderhawk has many cost-cutting measures that you'd see on Byrd knives (IE pinned handles instead of torx screws, etc.)

Both great knives though. I left the Spyderhawk in Taiwan because of the insane Louisiana-like humidity, and it's never had a speck of rust on it every time I'd visit since then.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Thanks, I think I have an Idea on what to get from spyderco (well, added to my list anyway) Anyone have any experience with the Midnite Series of Victorinox knives?

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Just ordered a pair of ladybug salts, both serrated, one hawkbill, and a shard.

 

[conw]

I have stopped carrying the hawkbill because it gives up so much in certain situations. Sure it is a better slicer if you just need to do a straight slice on a flat object but it doesn't cut items as precisely or cut items laid flat on a surface at all. It has its place but I kept grabbing it by accident when I wanted the drop point ladybug. If I cut more cardboard, garden pots, or rope, i'd carry it.

Half of finding the right knife lies in trying a knife that doesn't work well for you.

 

[JShirley]

My only H1 blade is a Rock Salt. It seems to scratch* fairly easily, but no rusting or discoloration. I have yet to do enough work with it to give firsthand feedback on the properties.

*(small scratches on the blade)

 

[conw]

I agree John. So did my ladybugs. I think it's possibly because they have by default a shinier finish and scratches just show up easier. Also the fact I cut open a lot of gritty bags of soil and sand and mulch.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

For Box opening or cutting straps I use a retractable Craftsman Razorblade knife.

 

[hso]

Serrations cut webbing/robe/fibrous material better than an unserrated edge.

Cardboard is still cut best by a plain edge.

Cardboard is so abrasive that it is a shame to use a good knife to cut it all the time. Occasionally, sure. As work, no. A simple utility knife with utility blades is best because they're cheap. If you want to impress, learn to sharpen them and keep reusing.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Really, huh, maybe I should get a Gerber Exchange a blade then.

 

[Yo Mama]

Seriously, I got a box cutter from Ace for 5 bucks. I've yet to change the blade. No reason to me to get a Gerber for boxes.