Question about my new to me Model 10

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BigDog(RE)

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Just picked up a used S&W Model 10-5 with a target barrel (see pics below). The pistol has had some work done on it in the past as it is DAO with a really smoooooth trigger pull. All the cylinders are chamfered and numbered. I think the barrel is a bo-mar and I know the sight is. I took it to the range and it shoots dead on...when it actually shoots. I am getting a lot of light primer strikes, and I checked the adjustment screw and it is fully tightened. Is this something that is easily fixed or am I looking at more serious work? Also, the hammer seems to be replaceable, is this normal in this type of gun?

Thanks!

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First, the riveted firing pin is normal. The firing pin size also looks normal.

There is a screw on the front strap of the grip. This screw should be turned all the way in. It tensions the mainspring. If it is turned all the way in, it may have been ground down at some time to shorten it and lessen the pressure it exerts on the mainspring. The mainspring itself may have been lightened to lighten the DA trigger pull. These are not uncommon tricks done to revolvers in an ill guided attempt to lighten the trigger. It unfortunately decreases the force that is behind the hammer as it falls, resulting in light strikes.

It's a nice looking revolver. Are those hex screws in the sideplate? Can you describe the trigger stop a bit?
 
Thanks for the reply. I tried adjusting the screw, but it is all the way in. I'm wondering if replacing the mainspring and that screw will help.
The screws on the sideplate are hex, and the red trigger stop is actually rubber. There is another sort of stop (I guess) behind the trigger, that looks like it is actually built into the frame. Like I said, a very smooth double action only trigger pull. There is no single action.
 
XavierBreath covered a lot of good points...

I think that if your mainspring tensioning screw is all the way in, then all you may be looking at is a new mainspring and screw. That would be both inexpensive and very easy to do yourself. Also, you may be shooting some ammunition with hard primers (CCI or Winchester reloads?).

I also am curious about the sideplate screws. One doesn't normaly see screws like that, and are not factory (although it is a darn good idea to minimize any chance of slipping with a slotted screwdriver).

Did you mean that the firing pin looks to be replaceable? Hammers are always replaceable. Firing pins normally aren't.
 
I thought about the hard primer issue, so I picked up some Federal Match Small Pistol primers and loaded up some 148gr HBWC to try out tomorrow. I will let you know how it works out. The cylinder release looks like it is an oversize add on. I know that it is bigger then the one on my 629.
 
Just confirming the tension screw and/or hammer spring is the likely cause of your misfires. It is somewhat standard practice to shorten the tension screw to get less pressure on the main spring and still be able to run it all the way in. Lighter main springs can be purchased or factory ones trimmed to also lighten the tension.

I'd try just putting a small shim between the tension screw and the hammer spring to achieve more tension - if that works out, then a replacement factory length tension screw might solve the problem without replacing the main spring - hell, buy a new main spring anyway - just in case ! Thet are not all the expensive.

Be aware that the heavier tension on the hammer spring with also effect the overall DA pull . The trick is to have enough to reliably fire the ammo you use, but not any more than needed to do that.
 
You have an old PPC revolver and they were built with the lightest possible trigger action. Federal primers are the only ones with cups soft enough to reliably fire with the light hammer strikes. When you try the Federal primers you should see the problem disappear. You can change out the mainspring and possibly the strain screw to make it reliable with all primers, but you will lose that sweet light trigger.
 
Thanks for the replies. I will try the federal primers later today, and I might try the shim if that doesn't work.
 
Well the Fed primers definetly helped, but I still had a few light strikes. I am going to order the Miculek spring and a standard spring from Brownells or Numrich to see if that solves it. Other then that, this is a great gun!
 
This forum rocks. I went with the shim fix mentioned above by mnrivrat and that worked. The revolver was 100% through 200 rounds. I went ahead and ordered and new screw, a regular mainspring, and a Miculek mainspring. That should about cover all my needs.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Piers
 
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