Question RE: Colt 1860 Army

[poordevil]

I picked up a new Signature Series 1860 Army back when Colt Blackpowder Arms was still alive.

I have notice since it arrived in the mail that the cylinder stops just slightly off of dead center at full cock. When the hammer rests down on the nipple you can see that the cylinder needs to be rotated another 1/16" or so to make the gaps between the sides of the cylinder and hammer equal.

Later I was attending a gun show and CBA had a booth with many of their guns on display. I was able to pick up and handle the 1860 Army and I noticed that their display gun was the same way. I thought at the time 'I guess all their Army's are this way.'

My Signature 3rd Dragoon isn't like that at all. It stops revolving at top dead center every time without any play in the cylinder at all. The Army has slight looseness with the cylinder at full cock and when the hammer is down, so you can actually twist the cylinder in line by giving it a little turn with your finger.

Is this a common report about the CBA 1860 Army? Or is my pistol and the one I handled at the gun show the only two?

 

[Fingers McGee]

Timing is off. The hand should push the cylinder until the bolt locks in the slot on the cylinder. Could be a short hand, broken hand spring, hammer prevented from going all the way back by the backstrap, hammer spring too long, or some other internal problem.

 

[Shultzhaus]

Also check for cylinder binds. Is the wedge in too tight? How about lubrication? Dryness could be a bind, or tightness problem. As others have stated, the hand may not be pushing far enough. Roughness in the slot where the hand travels. If this was a brand new piece, did you strip it down completely, and remove the packing grease? I'm sure others can expand on these possibles.

 

[poordevil]

I think it is a timing problem rather than a loose wedge or dryness due to lack of lube. I have a 3rd Dragoon that gets the same treatment and maintenance as the Army and It has no problems at all.

Both these guns were purchased new back in the late 90's when Colt Blackpowder Arms was still in business.

I never have liked shooting the Army very much. I might have taken to it more if it was 100% functional, but I have enjoyed shooting the Dragoon much more. I am going to take it to a gun show here in the Seattle area and see if I can get it traded off for a Walker or even just cash it out.

 

[rcflint]

If the bolt is dropping into the cylinder's notch and the chamber is misaligned, the problem is the cylinder. You might buy a new cylinder frrom VTIgunparts.com, the Uberti cylinder will fit the Colt 2nd or 3rd gen revolver.

With the gun cocked, make sure the cylinder is indeed locked. If you can rotate it, then the bolt is not engaged. Either it has a broken spring or the cylinder notches are peened enough to prevent the bolt nose from entering. If the hand is driving the cylinder past the bolt notch, it could just be bolt timing. If stopping the cylinder when it is aligned will not let the trigger's sear engage the hammer's full cock notch, the problem is the sear length.

 

[poordevil]

With the gun cocked, make sure the cylinder is indeed locked. If you can rotate it, then the bolt is not engaged. Either it has a broken spring or the cylinder notches are peened enough to prevent the bolt nose from entering. If the hand is driving the cylinder past the bolt notch, it could just be bolt timing. If stopping the cylinder when it is aligned will not let the trigger's sear engage the hammer's full cock notch, the problem is the sear length.

The cylinder does lock at full cock, but not without some play. What actually happens is the cylinder is being rotated past top dead center, just a hair, and there is just enough play in the cylinder while at full cock to allow it to be turned back to its proper position.

Also, as long as I am getting technical about this, the cylinder is showing sign of the bolt wearing on it. The bolt guide slots show wear at point of entry and the lock slots themselves show a little bit too. Finally, there is a slight score beginning to show where the bolt is contacting the cylinder during rotation.

 

[Fingers McGee]

The cylinder does lock at full cock, but not without some play. What actually happens is the cylinder is being rotated past top dead center, just a hair, and there is just enough play in the cylinder while at full cock to allow it to be turned back to its proper position.

In that case, your hand is pushing the cylinder past the cylinder notch and the bolt is not coming up soon enough to lock the cylinder. A little tuning on the hand should take care of the problem. You may also need to do a little tuning on the bolt.

The PDF files here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=4917845#post4917845 should help you in tuning the 1860. The articles are for a Pietta; but the mechanism and principles are the same.

FM