questions about at home gun bluing (or blacking in my case)

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requeth

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I purchased a Traditions pistol kit and I decided I wanted a black barrel (cast iron look hopefully). I looked online and the only black coating I could find was Blue Wonder's Gun Black. Aside from thinking this was a scam, I bought it, and now I'm thinking it was a scam. ;)

Has anyone had good results with Blue Wonder products? Any recommendations for an easy to use product that will work? I don't care that much about long term looks because it's mostly going to be a wall piece, with maybe a day or two of shooting per year. I really want it black if I can.

I'm putting down my issue below.

I blacked the barrel with roughly 10 coats of Blue Wonder Gun Black while meticulously following the company directions. Added the developer, waited an hour and a half, and then put their oil on the gun and let it set to finalize hardening. The barrel is looking amazing after it's done, nice deep black. The only concern is that small amounts of black are rubbing easily off while gently handling. I come back 1.5 weeks later and take a look.

The black has turned to a faded gray (think 3 year old black pants). and the top side has a nice even rust red layer on it. In handling it a considerable amount of the black is rubbing off on my hands.

I looked on Blue Wonder's website under support and found different "finishes" that can be done by rubbing steel wool over the finished barrel after a few days and re-oiling. About 30 minutes ago I decided to try that and ran recommended 0000 steel wool over the whole thing and re-oiled. Upside, no black is rubbing off anymore, downside is it looks like I'd need to re-black this thing 10 times before I'd have an even coat. Some silver is showing through in some spots and faded gray in others.

Is my experience above normal? Have I done something wrong? Any thoughts on how to get this a remotely even level of deep black?
 
Yes, it's normal for any brand of cold blue to fade and rub off over time.

Cold blue is best used for touching up small blemishes.

I have never used Blue Wonder.
The best cold blue I have used for refinishing is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. It tends toward a somewhat dull black that is as durable as any cold blue product I have ever tried.
It is still not nearly as durable as hot blue however.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_

rc
 
You just discovered the down side to cold blues:
The aren't durable at all and can be wiped off with a few rubs of a thumb.

They may actually promote rust.

They tend to turn gray, then to a brown over time.

They tend to give a streaky, smoky gray color.

Cold blues really are intended for touch-up of small scratches or worn spots and even then don't come even close to matching a hot blue.

Some suggestions:
Have the parts professionally hot blued, or parkerized.
Coat the parts with one of the epoxy "paint" type gun coatings like Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II or Lauer Duracoat.
These coatings are surprisingly tough and durable when applied properly, and come in a number of colors and shades of black.
 
I've seen people "cold" blue with heat guns and they report good results. Look up Iraqvetern8888 on Youtube. He does a great blueing series. Good luck!
 
Yes, but what YouTube doesn't show you is a vid of how it looks after a month or two.

It's possible to make cold blue look great when you do it.
Not possible to make it stay that way very long.

rc
 
The good old days are gone--years ago I could buy hot bluing kits from Monkey Wards
stores for cheap---uncle sam came in & said that us citizens will all die from those nasty chemicals---took them off the market.....................
They did a very professional job...............
No further comment........................
 
I like the oxpho blue. I went to order another bottle of it and its considered a hazmat...$20 more for the hazmat fee. :banghead:
So I'll wait until I have a larger order to fill.
 
The cold blues are just for touch up, of which it does a great job. The limitations are, they chemically bond a very thin copper plating to surfuse and then blacken the copper. That process is for cosmetics only which it does a pretty good job, but for complete reblue it has no staying power and is splotchy and streaked.
 
Caswell

That Caswell plating looks promising. My only concern is that I'm using this on a black powder gun barrel, and their method looks like I'd have to submerge the whole part and then I'd be blacking the inside as well. I had read that I shouldn't do so. Any input on if it's ok to black the inside of the barrel?
 
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