questions about old .44 mag

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coosbaycreep

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I recently started reloading for .44, and have put maybe 80 handloads through my 29-2 lately. Yesterday I shot 36 rounds through it, and a few times I had lead splinters or something come back and hit my cheek. I had eye surgery not too long, and always wear eye protection, but I don't like having anything hit my face when I'm shooting. What would cause this? Is the gun getting worn out or out of time or something?

The screw that holds the cylinder opener button thingie (don't know what it's called) on has play in it too. Right after I first got the gun, I was shooting it and that screw fell out. After replacing it, I've had to tighten the screw a few times, but even when fully tightened, there's still some play between the button and the frame. I noticed my new 629 has a little slop there too though. Is this normal? Because the rattling sound it makes sure is annoying.
 
Apparently that looseness in the cylinder release is not uncommon nowadays (there is another thread about that right now). Take it off and apply some blue loctite to the threads. This will solve the problem.

As to the lead, yeah, you need to look into this. What you want to find is by looking at the forcing cone, just some bad lead build-up that hasn't been cleaned. Flake it off with a dental tool if you have to, then scrub it clean with a bore brush if this is the case.

If not, you need to inspect the cylinder timing. Is it doing it on random cylinders, or all of them, or just a certain one or two? This will greatly help in diagnosing the problem.
 
Lead Spitting

I thought that any revolver that spits lead is a sign of too much gap between the barrel and the cylinder. That's the first place I'd look. Clearance should be in the neighborhood of .004 inches, should it not? It could also be a misalignment of the cylinder to the barrel. My Dan Wesson 15-2 .357 magnum had a lead-spitting problem and it was caused by excessive cylinder to barrel clearance. Tightening the clearance (it's easy on the Dan Wesson), not so easy on a S&W from what I hear.

You might want to have a qualified S&W gunsmith check it out.
 
Do the revolver check out that is a sticky her in the handgun section.

Check to make sure your cylinder is rotating to complete lockup, and that the play in the lockup is not eccessive. The cylinder to barrel gap should be around .006 " . .010 is at the edge of loose, and .004 is at the edge of tight.

If your gun is indexing up and locking up properly, then also check the gap. If all that is within good order, you might take a look at what you are shooting for reloads. How soft is the lead ? Are you gas checking the base ? How hot are you loading your lead ?
If you are not using lead bullets then what type powder, and is what you are getting lead spitting or powder spitting ?
 
The cylinder to barrel gap should be around .006 " . .010 is at the edge of loose, and .004 is at the edge of tight.

Yes, that's the correct range. Factory guns will ship "in spec" out to .012" or sometimes a hair more.

How soft is the lead ? Are you gas checking the base ? How hot are you loading your lead ?

That's a very good point - I forgot for a second we were talking about .44magnums and lead bullets. If they are warm or hot loads and with soft lead, it may just be the gasses ablating the base of the bullet. Especially if it is tiny lead specks and not "chunks" being shaved off.

What I have observed is that 85% of the time this just "shows up" on a gun that wasn't doing it before, it is lead build-up which forces an effective barrel/cylinder misalignment where one doesn't exist. You don't notice it with jacketed bullets, as the case keeps the round together (though copper fouling increases and accuracy suffers). But the lead will shave and show it.
 
Most any revolver will spit gas and powder back at the shooter. Its the nature of the beast is all due to that gap from the cylinder to the barrel. Magnums are really worse on that and reloads with Unique powder is really bad for that too.
 
Oro said:
That's a very good point - I forgot for a second we were talking about .44magnums and lead bullets. If they are warm or hot loads and with soft lead, it may just be the gasses ablating the base of the bullet.
buttrap said:
Magnums are really worse on that and reloads with Unique powder is really bad for that too.

I am inclined to believe this as well, and that in all probability there is nothing wrong with the revolver.

Any revolver, no matter how tight the flash gap, will always have cylinder blast. If you've seen pictures of shooters firing from a reclining position with the gun alongside a bent knee, you will often see leather chaps or panels sewn into the pant leg next to the cylinder. They are there for a reason. ;)
 
thanks for the replies

I haven't done the inspection in the revolver sticky yet, but will.

I'm thinking it's probably powder instead of lead though. Most of it was from using loads with universal powder, which also seems to be incredibly filthy.

All of my loads have been with either 180 or 240gr XTPs, and all of them have been lighter loads too.

I didn't shoot it today, but next chance I get I'm going to shoot some more reloads and factory ammo through it to see if there's a difference.

The cylinder and stuff doesn't feel any more loose than my new revolver either though, but I'll post an update when I get around to checking everything out better.
 
Once in a while I see a revolver with the chambers misaligned with the bore. Such a condition would come out of the box, not develop later.

While running tests for the effect of cylinder gap with a 44 Dan Wesson I found that at 0.012 the gap would start spitting crap back in my face. S&W's opinion not withstanding, I think the max for cylinder gap should be 0.008. Nominal of 0.006 for a self defense gun where reliability is paramount. I like 0.004 for a field revolver where reliability is not life and death. My SuperMags run at a nominal 0.003 and I've never had one hang up.
 
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