Questions after a few months at the bench

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C5rider

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I have loaded up about 300 rounds of 38 Spl. loads and I've always used Universal powder. I've used 4.2 grains for 38 Spl (158 gr) and 5.0 grains for +P (140gr bullet).

A friend of mine just handed me some lead wad cutters that I believe to be 140gr and some Remington 158 gr JHP. Can I use the same formula for the 158 JHP Remmies as the 158 gr Hornady XTP bullets? I know that whether they are lead or jacketed makes a difference, but does the manufacturer make that much of a difference if they're the same weight and both jacketed? Also, the Remingtons are a little longer, does it matter that they are going down into the casing more if I keep the OAL the same?

Everything that I've read tells me that I can seat the wad cutters much lower into the casing. IF that is the case, then the little bit on the Remmies is a moot point. Also, with the wad cutters, can I go with a 158 gr wad cutter recipe. i have heard to go with the higher weight bullet if you're unsure.

Also, I've checked out the sticky on crimping and, i'm using RCBS dies and even with the die going all the way down to meet the shellholder, I can't get a solid crimp. The dies are for both .357 and .38. I'm assuming that they are better suited to the .357 cases?

I'll be shooting these through my Dan Wesson and Ruger Blackhawk .357s. I've got some other questions about the .357 and .38 loads but, I'll ask them in another thread.

Thanks for any info!

Just trying to be safe.
 
You can use load data for the same bullet weight as long as the bullets are the same profile and material. Lead data for lead bullets and jacketed data.... Bullet weight matters so a proper charge for a 140gr bullet will not be a proper charge for a 158gr bullet. Also, a .38 wadcutter is usually 148grs.

If you don't have a good reloading manual you should buy one. You can also find load data for all Hodgdon/ Winchester/ IMR powders on the Hodgdon Load Data Site.
 
Thanks AACD.

This has convinced me to seek out a reloading book. I've checked out the Hodgdon site and it didn't list the Remington bullets, only the Hornadys. That's why I asked. I'll be working my way up to reloading my 25 Krag but figured that I'd start with a more standard load that doesn't require so much brass manipulation.

Thanks for the info.
 
As long as the bullets are similar in shape and material you can use a different bullet mfg data. Just start low and workup your loads. But you can not used jacked data to load a lead bullet as previously said.
 
Thanks AACD.

This has convinced me to seek out a reloading book. I've checked out the Hodgdon site and it didn't list the Remington bullets, only the Hornadys. That's why I asked. I'll be working my way up to reloading my 25 Krag but figured that I'd start with a more standard load that doesn't require so much brass manipulation.

Thanks for the info.
That's why we always start with the minimum charge and work up. There are slight differences in bullets so there are differences in charge weight limits. If you start low you can see when you get close to the Max and you can stop. Although with today's load data I have to stretch to think you will go over pressure with most any load published.

I will say the STARTING load data for any bullet of the same weight, material and profile will be safe to use.

When you buy a book make sure that book covers the powders you want to use. One of the best on the market right now IMO is the Lyman 49th Edition load manual and the Lyman 4th Edition Cast Handbook.
 
Thanks guys. Being relatively new at this, I wasn't sure that I had decided what powder I did want to use. Right now, i've got some Universal that I'm using. It's a basic powder as far as I can tell. It works okay, but I haven't decided if that will be the next powder that I purchase. I shoot 38, 357, 9mm and 45. I had mostly planned on using the Universal in the 38, 357s but, then a friend handed me a set of dies for 45 and, several boxes of brass (9mm and 45) and cast bullets! Well, THAT was certainly a game-changer!

I want to do it right. I'm just trying to figure out what questions need asked. I don't see going with many different calibers but, as soon as I say that, you know there will be some blued or stainless orphan left on my doorstep with a note and a set of dies!
 
W231/HP-38 works well for .38 Special, .45 Auto, 9mm and medium range .357 Magnum ammo. For full house .357 Magnum ammo I use W296/H110 but other magnum powders like 2400, AA#9 and powders in that burn rate range will also work well.

I do 99% of my handgun loading with W231, HS-6 and W296.
 
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