Quick Crimp Question

[Mark_Mark]

my post about .45 LRN brought a BIG question about crimp. I did not know 45 ACP head space on the case & You should only roll crimp rimmed case

This might solve my STI .40 feed problem please help me answer this:

Name that crimp

45 ACP - Taper
9mm - ???
.40 - ???
45/70 - roll crimp
.444 - roll crimp
.460 - roll crimp
.223 - ????
308 - ????
.357/38 - ????

thanks

 

[AJC1]

All semi auto pistols headspace on the mouth of the case and should only be lightly taper crimped. Rimmed cases like 38 get a roll crimp.

 

[Jim Watson]

Taper crimp 9mm and .40. You can crimp harder than the internet says, as long as you don't cut through plating or coating as long as there is any mouth to headspace on.

Roll crimp for revolvers including .38s IF the bullet has a crimp groove. People will sell you bullets without crimp grooves and they should be taper crimped.

I don't crimp .223 or .308 but I am loading for target shooting, not hunting or war where reliability is essential.

 

[50of4064]

45 acp taper
.40 cal. taper
.223, .308...Rolled on cannelured projectiles, taper on non cannelured projectiles..these head space off the shoulder.
38spl, 357 mag. Taper.

 

[redcon1]

The Lee Factory Crimp die is also frequently used for cannelured rifle bullets, like .223 and .308 in gas guns, but the question of whether to crimp or not to crimp such rounds is frequently debated. Taper crimping your autoloading pistols is primarily to remove the case mouth flare that you created to seat your bullet. Magnum revolvers get a firm roll crimp in the cannelure to prevent bullets from jumping forward in the cylinder and locking up the gun and because H110 and W296 are known to prefer it.

 

[Charlie98]

As far as crimping rifle cartridges, many don't need crimping at all. It took me a long time to get used to that concept, but it's proven itself.

I do not crimp .308 going into my bolt gun, nor target ammos intended for my M1a... case neck tension takes care of that.
I do taper crimp my .308 FMJ blasting rounds... just because.
I do not taper crimp my .45-70 rounds... they go into my single-shot. When I had a Marlin lever-action, yes, I crimped them, as I do my other standard lever action cartridges. I do not crimp bullets going into my Savage 99 lever-actions, because they have a rotary magazine, not a tubular mag.
I do not taper crimp my match-type 5.56mm ammos going into my AR, I do crimp, usually taper, my AR blasting ammos, although... again... it's not really necessary with proper neck tension.

...and... as others have mentioned... taper crimp rimless autoloading cartridges, roll crimp rimmed cartridges.

 

[AJC1]

38/357 roll crimp. If you shoot lite 38s in a pistol you can use a taper with sufficient neck tension. I roll them all because tube magazine.
223/308 neck tension no crimp because accuracy. If you load lead a taper crimp to close the case mouth.

 

[AJC1]

Double post

 

[Mark_Mark]

Dang I feel dumb now! all these years.

I use Lee FCD for almost all my pistol stuff. And that’s taper, I hope.

I might have 900 9mm and 500 .40 to pull.

 

[50of4064]

Dang I feel dumb now! all these years.

I use Lee FCD for almost all my pistol stuff. And that’s taper, I hope.

I might have 900 9mm and 500 .40 to pull.

May I suggest, you test a few before you do..if you belive that you taper crimped them, you may just be OK, if they are roll crimped...it may have a problem with regards to pressure or head spaceing...other members would know more about this then I...I am still learning myself....

 

[Mark_Mark]

May I suggest, you test a few before you do..if you belive that you taper crimped them, you may just be OK, if they are roll crimped...it may have a problem with regards to pressure or head spaceing...other members would know more about this then I...I am still learning myself....

thanks bro

 

[redcon1]

Dang I feel dumb now! all these years.

I use Lee FCD for almost all my pistol stuff. And that’s taper, I hope.

I might have 900 9mm and 500 .40 to pull.

People use the LFC die for pistols too. I just don't. I use the taper crimp that is part of the RCBS seating die for my 9mm and 10mm autoloaders. Lee probably inludes their FCD in their die sets for pistols. I don't have any of those but I have a few lee rifle die sets and they always come with a FCD.

 

[Mark_Mark]

People use the LFC die for pistols too. I just don't. I use the taper crimp that is part of the RCBS seating die for my 9mm and 10mm autoloaders. Lee probably inludes their FCD in their die sets for pistols. I don't have any of those but I have a few lee rifle die sets and they always come with a FCD.

I’ll examine them tonight, they feed and shoot, but the crimp might be to harsh

 

[nettlle]

Buy a Wilson case gauge die and keep adjusting you taper crimp die until your loaded round slips nicely into the gauge.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Buy a Wilson case gauge die and keep adjusting you taper crimp dire until your loaded round slips nicely into the gauge.

yeah… I’m looking into that right now

 

[.308 Norma]

308 - ????

I don't crimp "308" cases (neither Winchester nor Norma Magnum) at all, period. But both of my "308s" are bolt actions - not semi-autos.

 

[Rule3]

Dang I feel dumb now! all these years.

I use Lee FCD for almost all my pistol stuff. And that’s taper, I hope.

I might have 900 9mm and 500 .40 to pull.

The LFCD provides the crimp that is required for the cartridge.So if it's 9mm or 45 acp it does a TAPER crimp. For Revolvers it does a ROLL crimp.

The crimp die for rifles is a different kind of crimp, It does a Collet crimp,

 

[AJC1]

yeah… I’m looking into that right now

You can also just plunk your barrel for free. I like case guages for rifle. It's just a preference really. Hand guns are just easy for me to grab. The rifle is kinda a pain. Some people guage every round. I'm not one of those guys.

 

[redcon1]

I’ll examine them tonight, they feed and shoot, but the crimp might be to harsh

The primary purpose of taper crimping is to remove the case mouth flare that you created with your expander die to facilitate seating flat based pistol bullets. Another purpose is to prevent bullets from jumping backwards in the case under recoil. I have seen it argued that neck tension alone should be sufficient to keep the bullet from jumping backwards in the case and that excessive taper crimping will actually decrease that neck tension and thereby cause the bullet to setback under recoil and; thereby, create a dangerous high pressure situation and it also, possibly, might allow a bullet to slip too far into the chamber past the case mouth headspace "shelf" and thereby cause a constriction around the bullet and case mouth that leads to dangerously high pressures and "kabooms"; therefore, it is prudent in autoloading pistols to only taper crimp enough to pass the "plunk test" in either a chamber gauge and/or in any barrels you will be firing the ammo out of in order to avoid either of these dangerous situations and that is what I invariably do with autoloaders. I apply just enough taper crimp to plunk.

The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die will apply the proper roll crimp to a revolver cartridge or taper crimp to an autoloader cartridge according to the information at their website. I've never used one of these dies though so I can't say much else about it. My RCBS dies seem to work and so I don't mess with it.

 

[armydog]

I use the LFCD for everything. The only cartridge I have issues with is the 357. But after buckling 1 or 2 rounds I usually get it right after that.

 

[redcon1]

You can also just plunk your barrel for free. I like case guages for rifle. It's just a preference really. Hand guns are just easy for me to grab. The rifle is kinda a pain. Some people guage every round. I'm not one of those guys.

I plunk every round but if I was loading thousands of rounds on a progressive I wouldn't. I actually plunk in a barrel and a gauge though. I don't do this because I enjoy it but because it's how I learn. The more I measure things, the more I learn and, in this way, I'm constantly learning that I have a lot more to learn. seriously. I suppose after I have another decade of reloading under my belt, I'll probably forego a lot of the measuring.

 

[Mark_Mark]

The LFCD provides the crimp that is required for the cartridge.So if it's 9mm or 45 acp it does a TAPER crimp. For Revolvers it does a ROLL crimp.

The crimp die for rifles is a different kind of crimp, It does a Collet crimp,

I use Lee FCD for .40 and 9mm. So I think I’m ok. the .45ACP is Dillon, and it was already factory setup, So I might be good there.

I just had a panic attack thinking I had to pull all those bullets, But I should be good!

anybody want to shoot my handloads???

 

[50of4064]

I use Lee FCD for .40 and 9mm. So I think I’m ok. the .45ACP is Dillon, and it was already factory setup, So I might be good there.

I just had a panic attack thinking I had to pull all those bullets, But I should be good!

anybody want to shoot my handloads???

I will be expecting a box of the 40's and 45's in the mail...lol...
" ya' know this is why we don't have nice thing's "

 

[joneb]

I use Lee FCD for almost all my pistol stuff. And that’s taper

I don't have that die for anything I reload, but I do use the Lee collet crimp die for plated bullets. There are some Jacketed cannelured bullets that I use the collet crimp die with, mostly .357 Mag and 44 Mag. when a roll crimp will not prevent bullet jump in a revolver.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I don't have that die for anything I reload, but I do use the Lee collet crimp die for plated bullets. There are some Jacketed cannelured bullets that I use the collet crimp die with, mostly .357 Mag and 44 Mag. when a roll crimp will not prevent bullet jump in a revolver.

I use roll dies for my .460 & .454. I do have a .357 but it’s on the back burner until I get a matching 1873 SAA - the real one