Ed Ames
Member
Question for the gunsmithing court...
I recently picked up a little break action rimfire long gun. The action felt solid when I got it but as I was checking it over a third time I realized the action wasn't really locking closed - a sharp whack would pop it open.
I looked it over and after disassembly realized that the latch bolt wasn't engaging with the notch in the barrel lug. Everything else about how the action closed seemed correct, so I went to work with a file, some dychem (to mark the contact points), and a whole bunch of try fitting... I opened the lug notch enough that the bolt could engage.
Then I reassembled everything and found that the trigger guard/cocking lever/barrel release would not unlatch the barrel (I don't think it ever worked). I found a spot where the cast steel guard was supposed to cam the latch back but had obviously been filed down too far for the newly increased travel of the latch bolt.
The trigger guard is a rough casting with what looks to me like bad fake color case hardening. I tested by smoothing out some mold flashing with a file and it isn't hard.
I removed the trigger guard and used a TIG welder to add a very small amount of steel to the cam surfaces. I then filed it down smooth.
The gun now latches securely, opens correctly, and seems good to go. But...is that the right way to go about such a repair? Did I cause myself trouble down the road?
Obviously I think it is OK or I wouldn't have done it, but I'm interested in second opinions.
Thanks,
I recently picked up a little break action rimfire long gun. The action felt solid when I got it but as I was checking it over a third time I realized the action wasn't really locking closed - a sharp whack would pop it open.
I looked it over and after disassembly realized that the latch bolt wasn't engaging with the notch in the barrel lug. Everything else about how the action closed seemed correct, so I went to work with a file, some dychem (to mark the contact points), and a whole bunch of try fitting... I opened the lug notch enough that the bolt could engage.
Then I reassembled everything and found that the trigger guard/cocking lever/barrel release would not unlatch the barrel (I don't think it ever worked). I found a spot where the cast steel guard was supposed to cam the latch back but had obviously been filed down too far for the newly increased travel of the latch bolt.
The trigger guard is a rough casting with what looks to me like bad fake color case hardening. I tested by smoothing out some mold flashing with a file and it isn't hard.
I removed the trigger guard and used a TIG welder to add a very small amount of steel to the cam surfaces. I then filed it down smooth.
The gun now latches securely, opens correctly, and seems good to go. But...is that the right way to go about such a repair? Did I cause myself trouble down the road?
Obviously I think it is OK or I wouldn't have done it, but I'm interested in second opinions.
Thanks,
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