R * P 45 AUTO Head Stamp ?

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ferggie

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Has anyone had any issues with R * P .45 AUTO heads stamp brass? I was sorting brass that is from an indoor range and found several split cases with this had stamp. They seem a little lighter then others but that may be my imagination since I did not weigh them to see if they were lighter. The case wall thickness is 0.011 on average. I am interested in knowing if I should kull this head stamp as I am sorting and save them for scrap.
Thanks for the help.
 
I load the load pressure 45 ACP cases until they split (which is rare).

I would just toss the split cases and reload the rest.
 
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It is Remington brass, and is good stuff, but thinner than most, which can sometimes cause inadequate neck tension. All .45 ACP brass can split, and sometimes with only a few firings on it. No telling how many firings on it.
 
I can always tell while seating bullets if its going in R-P brass! Very easy seating effort tells me its thinner, but have not had any set back issues;)
 
The slightly thinner R-P (Remington) brass is absolutely perfect for cast bullets in .45 acp. They don't make as much bulge and they don't need as much flare. Good stuff for cast lead!

Plus they are still large primer pocket size which I have seen Federal/CCI/Blazer already has gone to small primers.
 
I actually like RP brass, especially for my high powered rifle applications. If it is properely sized and trimmed it will do just fine. I have noticed it will expire a little quicker than other brass, such as Win and Fed., especially 9mm. But other handgun cartridges like the .357, 38 spcl., and .40 cal seem to do just fine. And considering I work most all of my loads up to maximum, I can't complain. I don't own a 45 ACP or load for one so I really can't address that specifically.
 
"Remington & Peters"

R&P in 9mm works fine. Larger-than-most chamfer on the primer hole. Deprimes easy unlike PPU.
 
In the couple hundred thousand + reloads I ve made over 15 years, in various calibers, .223, .308, .30-.06, 9mm, .45acp, .44 mag, .357 mag, .38spl, .32acp, .380acp its been the most consistant trouble free brass of any Kind I have used except Star brass, which is equal to RP. My local commercial range sells it for rental guns, and they sell the once fired brass which is mostly R-P.

As far as it being thinner goes, that's Horse Crap its SAAMI spec brass.
 
Actually it is thinner or at least mine measures around a .001 thinner. I load alot of it but notice they they seem to crack a lot sooner than my other brass does.
 
R-P 45 brass has a thinner neck - doesn't mean it's beyond the range of SAAMI specs. Try comparing R-P with a Federal case - don't need a micrometer to note the difference.

I use R-P for cast loads all the time.
/Bryan
 
I've loaded lots and lots of 45 ACP with RP brass over the last 50 years - no problem with cast or jacketed and no more early case failures than with other brands. If you don't want it, i'll take it.
 
The reloading/resizing operation, and the size of your chamber will all cause work hardening of the brass and case splits. If you get the "squeezing" and "expansion" closer together the "less" your will work the brass and the fewer cracks you will get over time.

Carbide dies are fast but they squeeze your cases the most and then the expander stretches it out again. Brass quality plays a big factor in split necks but so does the torture you put your brass through during the sizing operation. (less is more) ;)
 
I've had setback issues with R-P brass during a USPSA match, causing massive FTF jams. Now, when I tumble my brass, I sort it: Winchester, Speer, Blazer, PMC goes into a bag specifically for match loads, all else - especially R-P brass, goes into a seperate bag just for range/practice loads.

Also, I too have noticed very easy bullet seating with the R-P brass, hence another reason I only use it for range/practice.
 
Straight walled pistol brass doesn't have a neck.
and bullets aren't "heads" but often so called ...

...its been the most consistant trouble free...
and that's not how you spell "consistent" but - we knew what you meant without a need to be pedantic.
/B
 
I'm not much of a brass snob.... especially when it comes to .45 acp (for which I don't find a lot of range pick up for some reason... probably because others beat me to it)....

As noted by others...

It's slightly thinner (never bumbs the post sizing ring on my FCD, while Federal almost always does).

It sizes and loads well. Though if your taper crimp is set up using Fed brass, you will get a lighter crimp with the Rem brass.

It acutally has a slightly tighter primer pocket than Win or Fed.

Of the ~1,000 rounds of .45 acp I've loaded and fired, I've only had one split case neck, but unfortunately, I can't remember the mfg. (I load range pick up and don't count how many time I've reloaded the brass). About 30% of my brass is RP, so with only one out of 1,000 reloads splitting, I think it's safe to say the RP isn't prone to easilly splitting.

I have only noted one set back issue and that was on my "carry" ammo. which is loaded in nickel plated Rem. brass. I usually unload the good stuff from my mags and then pop off a couple boxes of plated reloads, and then after cleaning up re-load the carry ammo. I just recently found a cartridge with the bullet set back .060". I believe this round may have been chambered (sling shotted from the mag) several times, however, and can't really credit it to the brass mfg.

I'm setting up to cast 230 gr. RN, so I like the idea of segregating it for use with my cast bullets.

I say, "Load 'em and shoot 'em and then do it again."
 
All you need to use RP brass is a sizer that sizes it down enough. If yours won't, segregate it, or get a tighter sizer, but it is plenty good enough brass, just thinner walled. ;)
 
I load R-P exclusively in my lead 45 ACP target loads in Bullseye and PPC. I had trouble years ago with JACKETED bullets so quit using R-P for them.

I have found the nickeled cases thicker than the brass.

Greg
 
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