Range report and 1858 cylinder question

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by brewer12345, Apr 30, 2021.

  1. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    I got the brand spanking new Uberti stainless target 1858 out today. I am still fairly new to cap and ball, but this was pretty easy to shoot and manage. I found that 25 grains of Grafs 3F with a lubed wad and a 44 round ball shoots really well. Made it through 8 cylinders and decided I was close enough on preferred load to just shoot the last cylinder unrested. Loaded, capped, walked to a firing spot, raised the gun and realized the front sight blade was gone. Spent over an hour looking for it on the canyon floor, including some quality time on my hands and knees. No dice. Shot off the cylinder and packed up. Taylor & Co. had a replacement in stock so I ordered one. Hopefully it fits.

    I really, really like the gun, although it is amazing how long cleaning takes. I am still getting back my proficiency with handguns after dealing with a frozen shoulder and physical therapy, but I can see how I will have lots of fun this summer shooting cap and ball. When they tell us no more shooting in the forest due to fire danger, I bought the conversion cylinder for use in the indoor range. This one might come along on jackrabbit hunts to administer the coup de grace as well.

    Question: how in tarnation do you easily get the cylinder back into these things? I manage eventually, but it si kind of a wrestling match. There must be a knack. What is it?
     
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  2. arcticap

    arcticap Member

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  3. white smoke

    white smoke Member

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    With the cylinder pin clear of the area and the hammer at half cock, I bring the cylinder into position and with a bit of pressure on it rotate it slowly clockwise. With mine it just sort of rolls in. Center it and push the cylinder pin in. It’s the hand that interferes with it. If that doesn’t work you can always hold the hand down with a small flat screwdriver and roll the cylinder past it. Hope this helps.
     
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  4. grter

    grter Member

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    The key is to rotate the cylinder (slight twist usually) whenever you move it (whatever the direction) for alignment because the hand is always poking out ready to snag on anything it's edged tip can grab such as notches, nipples, or recess in the back of you cylinder of which there are plenty. That hand is like a one direction a latch lock when at rest.

    After some practice your tendency to overshoot the cylinder too far to the other end when inserting after the twist suddenly frees it of the hand's grip will resolve when you get the feel for it. WHENEVER that hand snags the cylinder it's jiggle and CLOCKWISE twist to move it whether left or right.
     
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  5. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    Yeah, I managed to roll the cylinder right through a couple times. When you say clockwise, this is as you are looking down the barrel, right?

    I know the hand is the problem. Probably just a matter of practice. When I get the conversion cylinder out I will get lots of it.
     
  6. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    I went all the way up to manufacturer list max of 30 grains of 3F and it wasn't all that accurate, but what an explosion!
     
  7. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    Oh yeah: on the stock Uberti nipples, the Rem 10s were great. The RWS 1075+ I got from midway were "OK." Plenty hot, but they did not stick quite tightly enough to the nipples for my liking. I will try CCI 11s on my next outing, as I have a lot more of those than Rem 10s.
     
  8. woodnbow
    • Contributing Member

    woodnbow Contributing Member

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    Take a good look at the hand and it’ll be obvious which direction to turn the cylinder...

    Your front sight is meant to fit tightly in the dovetail but still allow movement to adjust for windage. Once you know how the proper placement is the sight can be loctited or soldered in place.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2021
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  9. arcticap

    arcticap Member

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    I stumbled across another way to install a Remington cylinder that was posted by tpelle: --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/removing-the-cylinder.745947/page-2#post-9382882

    "Something I've found with my Remington clone:

    To remove the cylinder, do not, as the instructions show, place the hammer on half cock. Simply, with the hammer down, lower the loading lever partially and withdraw the cylinder pin, then place your left hand (presuming you're right-handed) beneath the cylinder while holding the pistol right side down, and begin to ease the hammer back. The nose of the hammer will clear the cylinder as will the bolt, and the cylinder will drop out into your left hand.

    To replace the cylinder, simply reverse this process, drawing the hammer back to lower the bolt, slip the cylinder in, ease the hammer down until the bolt begins to raise so that you can "hook" the bolt into a locking notch, then align the cylinder so that a nipple is under the hammer, then let the hammer the rest of the way down. The cylinder will now be held in alignment by means of the bolt and by the hammer, which should align it well enough with the cylinder pin so that it can be easily slipped right in.

    Harder to describe than it is to do it. Works for me, anyway."
     
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  10. skeeterfogger

    skeeterfogger Member

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    Cleaning not so bad. I pull the cylinder and grips and trigger guard then put it in the sink or a tub filled enough to cover the parts with hot soapy water. Let it soak about 20 minutes then brush and patch it. Then rinse with hot water and pour a little alcohol down the internals from trigger guard to displace any remaining moisture then blow it dry with compressed air. Put a few drops of oil inside at every available opening. Wipe bore, cylinder and outside with light oil. Reassemble and store.
     
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