rattling Cobra's...paging a Colt Revo S-Smith

[Fat Boy]

Hoping I haven't gotten a bad deal....

Traded for a Colt Cobra (unshrouded ejector- built around 1969 per Proofhouse.com)

It checked out on lock-up- no end shake, etc.

Got it home and checked it more closely; when it is gently shaken, both with the hammer down and fully drawn and on lock up there is a rattle inside the frame...

Also, I noticed when drawing the hammer, and pulling the trigger the cylinder seems to move slightly in rotation...

How bad does this sound?

Thanks!

 

[Old Fuff]

It sounds like the "little rattle" might be the positive hammer block, and if so that's normal.

When you cock the hammer the cylinder should rotate all the way to the next chamber, with the bolt locking into the notch in the cylinder. If it doesn't - on all chambers - some attention is needed.

If the cylinder is locked by the bolt, but rotates slightly when you pull the trigger - that is also normal.

 

[Fat Boy]

Old Fuff, you have described exactly what is happening- you are a life saver

Thank you-

Hopefully a trip to the to the range will take place this weekend....no plus P stuff

 

[snooperman]

I think "OLE FUFF" is correct too... as I did the ..

same with my Colt Cobra and it made the same noise .

 

[Old Fuff]

All revolvers that have hammer block or transfer bar safeties may (or may not) have "the rattle," but if the do it isn't a bad thing. The part must move freely without resistance. If it gets stuck nothing else, (hammer, trigger, whatever) will move.

When they first developed the aluminum frame Cobra, Colt made a prototype with a special cylinder chambered in .357 Magnum. Notice that it didn't have a rechambered .38 Special cylinder - which is a no-no.

They fired a limited number of .357 rounds - loaded to the original specifications - without doing any damage to the revolver, but those doing the shooting soon wanted to stop and give up. A problem can develop if Plus-P .38 Special ammunition that is really loaded on the hot side is fired on a more-or-less regular basis. This can loosen things up over time, and require the gun to be rebuilt. When qualified 'smiths and parts are now hard to find that can become expensive. So what you are looking at is not a KABOOM! but rather a slow death from pounding. For close-up self defense I prefer .38 Special mid-range wadcutters, which cut a nice hole in both paper targets or goblins.

 

[snooperman]

Thanks for all the info "Old Fuff"

I also shoot wad cutters in my Agent and Cobra for the same reason you mentioned. Less wear and tear on these older guns.

 

[BullfrogKen]

Also, I noticed when drawing the hammer, and pulling the trigger the cylinder seems to move slightly in rotation...

That's what those old Colts do. The action locks once the trigger is pulled fully to the rear. The cylinder will rotate, the latch will fall into the notch on the cylinder, but the action locks fully when the tigger is pulled and the hammer releases.

Smiths don't. Colts do. It makes the action very tight. It's actually a hallmark of Colt's action. And it made Colt revolvers more expensive to produce. That final lock-up was said to enhance accuracy, but it required a well-tuned cylinder. Otherwise the forcing cone would shave a little lead from the bullet as it entered.

 

[Mac2]

I'm looking at a Cobra (2nd gen) at the pawn shop right now. I saw it yesterday and only had 10 minutes before I had to get to work. The blueing is 95% and it locks up well. My concern is that when opening the cylinder, it is rather stiff to open. Not the release, but the cylinder being pushed open itself. I'll check it closer Monday. I'm hoping it's a cleaning / lube issue vs any kind of damage. Side plate too tight? What kind of damage would make a cylinder stiff to open? I can get it for $375 out the door (no box).

 

[Guillermo]

for 375 I would give it a go if it checks out otherwise (see sticky at the top of the revolver section)

Get that baby home and try some breakfree and compressed air

 

[snooperman]

I would ask him if you can clean all around the Ejector rod and ...

the cylinder. For that price I would take a brush and some cleaner with me . If I do not clean mine , under the cylinder star , I get binding. That is a good price if that's all it needs.

 

[rcmodel]

Side plate too tight?

No, the sideplate has nothing to do with it.
Most likely dried lube on the crane, or the crane retainer lock & spring under the big cap screw just below the trigger guard on the right side.
Parts #7, 8 & 9 here:
http://www.coltparts.com/pt_D_framecobra.html

At any rate, too stiff is much better then too loose!!!!

rc