RCBS customer service, stuck case, shattered expander and decapper

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WestKentucky

WestKentucky

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Last night I was running through some .308 once fired brass. It was all R-P stamped commercial brass, and it was going well, using actual case lube for once as well... Then I had a stuck case. I have stuck cases before, but never like this. It ripped the rim off about 80% of the case when I finally got the ram to move. I could not get the decapper rod assembly back out the top and shattered the expander ball and decapper pine in the process. Once that was destroyed I finally got the die flipped so I could tap it and pull the case with a bolt...stripped the bolt out and had to go bigger. It was 1/4-20 by the time I got done, and it still wouldn't budge, I was lifting my entire bench off the ground trying to move it, and that is probably 175 or 200 pounds between tools and the bench itself. So I pulled the wooden ball off of the classic cast arm, hooked in a ratchet strap and hooked the other end around the back of the press, and put enough tension to flex the rod. Dug around and found another 1/4-20 bolt about 6 inches long and used it as a punch to hammer on the casehead. It finally came loose after an hour of fighting it. I already called RCBS and replacement parts are on the way. Is there anything I missed in frustration that would have helped?

To clarify...I tried pulling the case with a deep well socket and bolt but it was taking a lot of pressure and showed no sign of movement. I also had a 1/4-20 carriage bolt handy and it slipped right into the shell holder slot on the ram when I went back to the top to pound on it. That let me hold a lot of downward pressure and shock it with the hammer.
 
Perhaps you should ALWAYS use case lube. The inside of the die can get micro-scratches which causes rough spots that can lead to these things.

Why do I know?
 
I always do use something...it's usually Pam cooking spray. This time it was Oneshot. And I think in this case it's the opposite issue. The stuck case was on the 27th case resized in this die. I got the dies for christmas and am just now getting around to using them. Perhaps the die hasn't become polished smooth in the die body yet? And I'm also not convinced that the expander ball was not the whole issue. It has been lubed as well but the insides of the first 26 cases show some minor scratches in the neck which could have been my problem materializing.
 
You have a case lube problem. A properly lubed case will not get stuck. Hornady One Shot has probably stuck more cases than any other commercial lube. The issue is not applying the lube properly.

Some users put their cases into a loading block and then spray down the cases. The cases don't get the lube near the bases and then you get stuck cases.

A couple of good ways to use the Hornady lube is to put your cases into a gallon zip loc bag. Spray the cases in the bag, knead the bag a bit and apply more lube and knead again making sure to get the lube on the cases evenly.

I like to put the cases into a box, spray the cases, mix them around and spray them again and agitate. I use Dillon lanolin lube or the home made lanolin lube.

I don't get stuck cases.
 
An acetylene cutting torch may have helped a bit or the use of a better case lube and enough of it.;)
 
Well, again, I agree on the lube. I have a small plastic box I toss my brass in, spray generously, shake around and then start resizing. I don't see how this issue could be a lube issue. I'm not saying it isnt, but it's the same process I have done for about 15000 reloads with this being the 4th or 5th stuck case in all of that time...with 90% or more being done with Pam, and the remainder being with Oneshot.

I need to inspect this case a little bit better to see if I can find any more damage. I will cut it open with a tube cutter next time I'm at the bench.
 
Many mistakes

You simply can NOT get a neck expander and stem out of a case that is fully in a FL die! The neck sizing portion of the die sizes the neck on the outside so the inside is way undersize, so the expander ball can expand it back out to the proper size,(most times about .003 under the bullet outside diameter. IOW, the neck is sized .305 inside for a tight interference fit for max neck tension. The expander cannot come out through the neck while inside the FL die, no room for it.

The inside diameter of the neck while inside the die is about .302 while fully inserted in the FL die.

A stuck case extractor uses a ¼X20 bolt, a ¼X20 tap and a collar and washer to
pull the case out once the primer pocket has been tapped. It takes a LOT of torque to do it. You can improvise with a socket, washer and smaller bolt but the ¼X20 is the smallest you should use. Use a #7 number drill before tapping.

Hornady one shot has stuck more cases than any other commercial case lube and many home brewed concoctions. It is seldom used right which causes most of the problems. I first saw it when I was working at a gunshop, the owner said take a can home to try it out on my loading bench. I did, considering it a job to do for the boss. I immediately stuck a case, IIRC it was a .280. THEN I read the destructions,(after getting the case out). It still took a lot more force to size my .280's than when using my RCBS lube pad with Bonanza lube on it. I took the remainder back to the shop, never used it again.
 
Well...the Oneshot is now on reserve for straightwalled pistol cases. Whatever actually caused the stick will remain a mystery. The case had a fair amount of lube inside, and all of the bits of broken die parts also had lube on the bearing surfaces. Outside the case appeared just like the rest, and the die had lube pushed up into the neck and a little all around the base as it should have. Several cases even have small lube dents in the shoulder. I can find no flaws with the die, the case, or anything which points me toward anything other than to say shtuff happens, move on and hope for the best. I will be keeping both the 1/4-20 and 3/16 taps, bolts, washers etc in my reloading toolbox. I will probably also buy a 2" or 3" piece of "blackpipe" and reducer fitting to use instead of 1/2 drive deep well sockets.
 
Why in the world do you use PAM? It has many "flavors" but the basic one is Canola l,palm or coconut oil It is not the best for lubrication. In fact why buy the name brand, get the store brands, cheaper if you must use the wrong product.??


There are many many threads on DIY lubes,


LEE lube is a heavy paste and is water based it can be diluted with alcohol to make it go a lot further, There is not need to use it full strength. If you make it a spray there is no need to remove it. (water based) or if you really want to just wipe it off.

It is actually Electrician wire pulling lube. You can buy that at Homers or Lowes and have enough for the rest of your life.

Imperial is great but is heavy and needs to be removed. The tiny tin will also last forever.
 
Every time I see a thread about a badly stuck case One Shot is involved. I use nothing but Imperial Sizing Wax. For only $10 I can load for years, the 2 oz. tin lasts long. Ever since started using ISW I have never stuck a case, not even close.

One Shot works extremely well on pistol brass when you want to smooth out the operation.
 
Snuffy nailed it .... How in the world did you manage to get that expander out of the die! No wonder you destroyed it !

OneShot is worth using on straight wall cases ... Only (my Opinion)

OneShot is involved in most stuck case threads on here ... that should tell everyone something .... if it were a medicine ...it would have been pulled from the shelf and the One Call lawyers would be all over it!
 
When your new expander arrives I would chuck it up in a drill and polish it with some 1200 grit emory cloth. Don't worry about removing too much material, it would take forever with the 1200 grit to remove enough to hurt anything. I have bought carbide expanders for the dies that I use the most, but polishing the steel expander makes for a smoother operation.

I once had a case stuck bad enough that I stripped the 1/4 threads and ended up using a 5/16 tap. OneShot was involved!
 
This has potential. It was a fairly quick operation, but I think I had plenty dry time...I lubed my cases and immediately chucked in #1 sized it, pulled the die and tossed in the seater and worked on die setup. Got everything dialed in to crimp in the cannelure, and jumped right back to sizing. Oh well...waiting on parts. I will be going back to Pam for the remainder of the run. Spray, shake, size, load.
 
I use OneShot on pistol brass. makes my progressive run smoother. For rifle I use homebrew lanolin, 12-1 ratio. Have never stuck a case, including some 7.62X51 machine gun brass that sizes extremely hard, first pass without the expander, second with the expander.
 
Kaldor +1. I am trying to finish using the hornady lube in a tub which is also good for rifle, ( a lot like Imperial Sizing Wax). One tub will last many thousands of rifle though. The home brew with lanolin is equally as good or even better especially for large batches of cases. I have only had one stuck case in my life. I was using a pad at the time.
 
Hornady One shot went to the trash can quickly. When I get a stuck case I always drill and tap it to1/4X20 to pull it. I never try to hammer them out. I was given a bunch of .223 brass. Even lubed with Dillon case lube the rims pulled off. After 12 straight stuck cases, The rest (500) went to the scrap can. I think the rims were thinner than they should have been.
 
There is one reason cases get stuck in a resizing die....and it causes all kinds of bad words to be said and money to be spent. You know what it is , so just start getting real anal about case lubing . Every case not just some of them. STP works very well , slick as all get out !
I've stuck two in the last 40 + years and think about them each time I get ready to size, I have at times lubed them twice , just to make sure....a bit paranoid about it , but I didn't like that stuck case experience at all .
Another tip, if the case starts to go in a little hard...STOP ! Going in hard means it's going to be hard to get out and that's when the rims pull off. As soon as you feel undue force required, back that case out and grease it with STP , then try again.
 
I have used Lee Case Sizing lube for many years. Never had a stuck case with it. It has done a particularly good job when forming .30 Carbine brass into 5.7 mm Johnson cases.
 
gojones said:
Kaldor +1. I am trying to finish using the hornady lube in a tub which is also good for rifle, ( a lot like Imperial Sizing Wax). One tub will last many thousands of rifle though. The home brew with lanolin is equally as good or even better especially for large batches of cases. I have only had one stuck case in my life. I was using a pad at the time.
Click to expand...

There is a time and place for sizing wax, usually when doing big neck up or down type jobs. I have some Imperial that I bought for sizing 7.62X51, but havent had to use it yet. But you are correct, lanolin spray for doing large batches is a god send. Throw the cases in a box or pan, spray them, shame them, let alcohol evaporate, and youre good to go.
 
I used to use the RCBS goo in a tube for lube. Horrible pain in the a$$ to use, but it worked. The only real problem was getting lube on the case necks of a .300 win mag case and getting buckled shoulders.

So I tried the imperial wax. Only time I've ever gotten a case stuck on my .300 was with the Imperial Wax.

I'm using a wax made by Bull Shop called Bull Size. I don't know what is in it, but it works. I've never had a stuck case using it.

I used a 1/4" self drilling TEK screw to pull the stuck case. Saves the trouble of drilling and tapping. Just drive in the screw.
 
I actually think the One Shot is pretty good. You have to apply it correctly. The best lube I use I make myself with Lanolin and alcohol.
 
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