Re-packaging smokeless

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gunboat57

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I was given several pounds of various smokeless powders, both pistol and rifle. Some of this powder is probably close to 20 years old though still good as my reloads prove. But the original containers are begining to show signs of deterioration like some light rust, cardboard starting to come off the metal cans, etc. What kind of containers would be good for me to use to replace the originals? Plastic? Metal? I'm thinking air tight with screw on lids for sure.

Suggestions?
 
Best choice are current production powder containers with their contents consumed by another reloader. Mask off all prior labels.

That way, you can be certain the chosen containers were designed to be compatible with smokeless powder.
 
Well, I am using old IMR powder tins. Guess you don't have them.

Plastic will work just fine as long as it is not clear. You don't want photons of light getting in and breaking down your powder.

Probably won't be a problem in a house, but just to be safe, something like antifreeze bottle, plastic quart of oil, etc; something opaque.
 
Rusty powder cans are often the first sign of powder breakdown.

When powder starts to go south, it gives off acidic fumes, and that starts the rusting process.

rcmodel
 
If the containers are disintegrating, you should check the powder before repacking or using it. Bad powder will have:

1. Acrid smell, not the mild chemical smell most powders have
2. Reddish dust mixed in with the powder

Make sure you label the powder, including the manuf. lot number. Don't rely on memory or visual identification, even with distinctively colored powders eg. Herc Dot series.

When properly packed and stored, the powder lasts a long time. I am still using the 1950s powders I inherited, HiVel #2 is my favorite for 30-06. The new heavy PET containers from Hodgdon/IMR/Vihta are excellent, I save them for re-use and repacking of old powders. I don't like the old Hercules and Hodgdon packing, with cardboard cases and sheetmetal tops/bottoms.

LT
 
Plastic will work just fine as long as it is not clear

Not necessarily true. Not all plastics are created equal, and colors are not accurate indicators.

Case in point: gasoline will dissolve some plastic, but not others.

As I understand it, some powders have higher glycerine contents than others; those will react unfavorably with some plastics.

I don't know how to tell when the powders are shot. Since they were given to you, you're not out any $$. Try contacting the manufacturer - perhaps they will be able to help you. If you can see a lot number on the can, that will be helpful, I'm sure. IMHO, that phone call could very well be worth it. Free and dangerous powder just ain't worth it.

Q
 
BTW: You should be able to buy empty 1 pt. & 1 qt. metal paint cans cheap at any paint store.

They would make most excellent powder storage containers.
(Blow-off lids in case of a fire)

Same reason Hercules and Hodgdon used metal/cardboard containers. Fire Safety!

rcmodel
 
For all it matters, you can use glass containers...............just make sure they're clean, and store them in the dark. But check them now and then for deterioration. If you're not sure, you can always dump the stuff out in the garden, and grow some SERIOUS tomatoes! ;)

PJ
 
Thanks for all the helpful replies. So far, all my powders still have the faint chemical smell and the only rust is on the outside of the containers. I think I'll check out the empty paint can approach because I like the idea of a blow off lid and it'll be much easier to pour powder back into the container from my powder dispenser after a loading session.
 
I use small liquid laundry detergent bottles to store some bulk powders (and lead shot). They are opaque, and made of thick HDPE plastic, just like smokeless gunpowder canisters.
 
I believe one square can of Bullseye I have has a $3.29 price tag still on it. How old would that make it?

Laundry detergent bottles might keep my groups smelling spring-time fresh.
 
For FYI.

I emailed IMR about the red dust and powder and they told me that it was fine to use if the smell was still solventy, no problem with the dust.

Reloads all shot fine. IMR 4895.

YMMV
 
i have used some nobel powder from 1978. it was fine, it shot a bit dirty but maybe all powder did then. i was only a boy when it was made
 
I second the use of original tins or plastic bottles. I believe the plastic bottles are carbon-filled, making them opaque to light and conductive so static buildup is not an issue. Obviously, tins are conductive as well.

I believe, from my own experience, you really have to abuse powder for it to go bad. Over temperature would be the kind of abuse to avoid. Powder will pickup moisture (making for light loads) so keep it sealed.

Be absolutely sure if you mix powders from different containers that they are the same manufacturer and product number.
 
in my puny little simplistic mind, i would only store gunpowder in a container SPECIFFICLY designed for that purpose. there IS a reason they are made with the materials they are made with. it is just not happen stance. people way smarter than i design this stuff. so i will use what they call for. i know there are always metal gun powder cans on ebay. if you can not scrounge up some newer plastic cans from a freind or someone at the range, you could go there and get some. good luck!
 
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